What do you think? Beauty topics and thoughts

You Mean That’s NOT Real?

by PJ on Sunday, July 29, 2007

in makeup, makeup - mascara, What do you think? Beauty topics and thoughts

(Helena Rubinstein Lash Queen Waterproof Mascara ad,
p. 26-27, August 2006, Biteki magazine)

We all know that beauty ads are often about visual impact. Pores are blurred, lines are erased, makeup is retouched, and hair is re-textured. Perfection is what we aspire to, and it is what they are presenting.

Last week, UK’s Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) found L’Oréal in breach of advertising rules after they admitted that, in their TV ad for Telescopic Mascara, Penelope Cruz wore false eyelashes. In their future ads, L’Oréal must include a statement in the ad if false lashes are used. Apart from this, L’Oréal will have to make it clear whether claims like “up to 60% longer lashes” refer to the appearance, not the actual length. (Read the full story in The Guardian.)

I wonder why ASA didn’t do this earlier, but I also wonder whether there is any point in doing it.

Have a look at a few more ads:

(Helena Rubinstein Surrealist Mascara ad,
p. 28-29, October 2006, Biteki magazine)

(Clinique Lash Power Mascara ad,
p. 92-93, August 2006, Biteki magazine)

(L’Oréal Volume Shocking Waterproof Mascara ad,
p. 84-85, August 2006, Biteki magazine)

(Notice that three of the four ads appear in the same issue.)

Obviously, there is a difference between stylized eyelashes above and false eyelashes that are meant to blend in with and enhance the real ones. But, in certain contexts, the difference is almost irrelevant. While I do believe in transparent advertising, I do think most of us consumers are (and should be) savvy enough to know what to take away from advertisements. Some ads are more visual than informational, and they are designed to appeal to our senses more than anything else.

Here is a spoof of the TV ad in a comedy sketch show (aired on BBC several months ago), which is very funny but makes a similar point.

One random thought: At least we can put on false eyelashes if we want to, whereas we can’t digitally enhance our image in others’ (or our) eyes……

{ 10 comments }

"Can I Return This, Please?"

by PJ on Tuesday, July 3, 2007

in makeup, skincare, What do you think? Beauty topics and thoughts

Drying lipsticks…mascaras that clump like crazy…moisturizers that break you out…I am sure you have come across things that are simply not good enough for you.

What can you do? Well, apart from putting them on eBay, it depends on where you are.

I live in the UK. Here, in almost all cases, once I open the packaging of a skincare/makeup/haircare product, I am not able to return it and get any money back (not even store credit). I can only get a full refund (within 28 days with the receipt) if the product is unused and the packaging is intact. (One of the exceptions that I am aware of is QVC UK, which obviously inherits the return policy from the US.)

It can be worse than this. I once bought a pressed powder in Debenhams (a chained department store in the UK). A couple of days later, with the outer packaging still completely intact, I decided I wanted to return it.

I couldn’t. I could only have an exchange. Their store policy says that, once purchased, no cosmetics item can be refunded.

I find it rather ridiculous, even though I have always been used to the fact that, cosmetics-wise, once I buy and start using something, I am basically stuck with it.

I have never lived in the US, and I remember being surprised when I came across people from the US on makeup forums saying that they were going to return products they ended up not liking.

I think it probably has something to do with the health and safety regulations in the UK, so I don’t expect things to change overnight. I am also aware that the return policies vary from retailer to retailer in the US. But certainly shops in the US are generally much more customer-friendly in this respect, I have to say…

What about the situation where you are? Any interesting/ridiculous story?

{ 24 comments }

Redefining Skin Types

by PJ on Wednesday, May 30, 2007

in skincare, What do you think? Beauty topics and thoughts

There are many different ways to categorize basic skin types, and different skincare brands have their systems. But it seems that, on the whole, especially for western brands, it is the familiar dry/normal/oily story.

However, I am never happy with it. It seems to totally disregard my own skin type.

A long time ago, I used to think I had oily skin. I used cleansers and toners designed for oily skin, and I looked for the most mattifying moisturizers. I also used exfoliators and deep-cleansing masques routinely. But the longer I used them, the oily my skin became. I was extremely confused.

Then, quite a few years ago, I heard people say they had “oily-dry” skin and I was intrigued. I looked into this and found a way to categorize skin types that I thought made much more sense.

The basic idea is that sebum secretion and surface water/moisture retention are two independent (but often cross-affecting) factors. Then we have four basic (not considering skin sensitivity) skincare types like this (I drew this myself, based on the skincare concept of IPSA, a leading cosmetics brand in Japan under Shiseido):


Types 1, 2, and 3 are pretty straightforward and are what we usually know about normal/dry/oily skin.

It is the Type 4 (oily-dry) that is the reason why I am writing this post. Many people with this type of skin think they have oily skin and are probably told so at cosmetics counters.

Under Type 4, the skin is oily because sebum secretion is compensating (or sometimes, over-compensating) the lack of water/moisture. This is a normal and very helpful coping mechanism (as opposed to Type 3 (dry skin), which relatively lacks this mechanism), but many people obviously don’t like having shiny faces and makeup melt-down. (In East Asia, people describe this skin type as “oily on the outside and dry on the inside“.)

In other words, under Type 4, the skin is oily because it is dry.

(Please note that Type 4 does not refer to what we usually know as “combination” skin. Type 4 refers to skin that appears oily all-over due to the lack of moisture underneath.)

People with oily-dry skin who don’t know it tend to be obsessed with deep-cleansing and mattifying their skin with harsh and drying products, but the only thing it does is to push everything to the extreme and make the skin drier and therefore oilier.

To take care of oily-dry skin, we need to see it as dry skin. In my own experience, when I use a light moisturizer, my skin feels dry after application and it gets oily and shiny very quickly. But with a slightly richer moisturizer, my skin feels comfortable and, more importantly, the skin doesn’t get nearly as oily.

The key, I think, is to use a moisturizer that is designed for normal or for dry skin (depending on how dry the skin actually is) with a relatively matte finish. For me, Lancome Hydra Zen and Olay Complete Care Night Enriched Cream work well on my oily-dry skin.

I personally feel that the common dry-normal-oily categorization of skin types is quite inadequate. As I said, IPSA is one of the brands that recognize oily-dry skin while Asian beauties with skin that is “oily on the outside and dry on the inside” are able to correctly identify their skin type and are therefore more able to take proper care of their skin.

For a few final words, the daily skin conditions, under each skin type, change with age, hormone, diet, stress level, weather, indoor heating, and many other factors. Your skincare routine has to be in keeping with the changes. Be sensitive, sensible, alert, and adaptive!

{ 22 comments }

10 Golden Skincare Rules

by PJ on Wednesday, May 2, 2007

in skincare, What do you think? Beauty topics and thoughts

They are very straightforward, and, quite frankly, blatantly obvious. But are you doing all of them?

1. Wear sunscreen. Every day. All your life.

2. Sleep well (quality and quantity).

3. Eat well (balance and variety).

4. Exercise (intensity and regularity).

5. Don’t smoke.

6. Moisturize.

7. Take off your makeup as soon as you don’t need it on.

8. Learn to read the ingredient lists of skincare products.

9. Stay hydrated. (Don’t overdo alcohol, coffee, or tea.)

10. Control the stress. (Don’t let it control you.)

These all come from my own experiences. As you can see, there is nothing new here. No miracle product. No secret remedy. I always believe we don’t need to spend a lot of money to have great skin.

Also, you have probably noticed that many of them are not directly related to skincare. I think we all need to be constantly reminded that our lifestyle can affect our appearance as much as what we put on our skin.

Go through the list. What have you been doing already? What needs to be improved? Sometimes we get so obsessed with what to buy at drugstores that we forget that skincare is not just the matter of choosing the right cleanser or exfoliator……

Every little thing you do to improve your overall lifestyle, it will improve your wellbeing and you’ll look better!

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Over-Hyped Products: My Personal Take

by PJ on Sunday, February 4, 2007

in all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, skincare, What do you think? Beauty topics and thoughts

There are many products that are always heavily featured in magazines and I am sure you sometimes think “They are not that good.” You might have used them and thought they were shockingly average, or you simply don’t fall for the hype.

For me personally, these products are over-hyped in different ways:

1. Creme de la Mer (hype despite of the price)

I admit I have never used it, so I can’t say whether it is a good moisturizer in itself for me. However, I don’t think any moisturizer (even if it is well-formulated) should cost this much, especially when algae (included in this product) is one of the cheapest and easily accessible ingredient.

Some people say they just want to have a bit of luxury in life. We all do sometimes, but it is a luxury *only if* it is better than anything else!

Unfortunately, there are loads more other products that fall into this ultra-premium category. Ignorant customers can easily be lured into them.

2. Lancome Juicy Tube (hype despite of the quality)

Its price is fine. It is affordable. But many magazines claim this is the best lip gloss. I also read that, on Ebay UK, it is one of the most searched items under the Health and Beauty category.

I have used it and I do think it is good. The slanted applicator is convenient and the gloss stays put and lasts for hours. But most of my other lip glosses give the same performances and I don’t understand the hype of it.

3. Kose Sekkisei Lotion (hype despite of the irritating ingredient)

Readers from many Asian countries will know what I am talking about here. It has been sold for more than 20 years and it is still one of the most popular toners in Japan. It is claimed to give skin brightness and luminosity. A popular way to use this toner is to soak a tissue mask in it and wear the mask for a good 20 minutes.

I bought this almost ten years ago and it proved again that alcohol and I really couldn’t get along, especially when there is so much of it (imagine Clinique Clarifying Lotion 3). I’ve said this before and I’ll say it again…alcohol is a major skin irritant and should not be added to any skincare product.

4. Benefit (hype despite of the packaging)

Right, this is only about the look, and feel free to disagree, because packaging is totally subjective and all views are valid. It seems like many people love the quirky and fun packaging of Benefit. I do like some of the imaginative names of the products, but that’s as far as it goes. The packaging is indeed very catchy so I understand why it stands out, but I personally really don’t like it at all. I don’t like cartoon drawings on my cosmetics. They just seem too child-like.

I tend to like packaging that is glamorous and relatively understated, like Chanel and Dior. I do girlie too, like Paul & Joe and Anna Sui. But Benefit is just too much for me. (So is Stila.)

(The only Benefit product I am interested in is the fragrance Maybe Baby. I like the smell and the bottle is simple but glamorous and elegant. But this look is not typical of most Benefit products……)

I’ll stop here and let you guys think about what products you think are over-hyped.

{ 4 comments }

Paula Begoun: A Consumer Advocate

by PJ on Sunday, January 21, 2007

in makeup, skincare, What do you think? Beauty topics and thoughts

I know that Paula Begoun sells her own cosmetics, but for me, I see her as a consumer advocate. I have never tried or bought her products, but I have learned a lot from her in terms of choosing suitable products for myself in my local drug stores and department stores. She knows about the science behind the research and manufacturing of cosmetics and she reviews products accordingly.

I happened to come across her website in the mid-90’s when I started to acquaint myself with the world of the Internet. (That seems so long ago!) What I noticed first is her opposition to alcohol in any skincare product. Ever since I started to use skincare products regularly, I noticed that my skin could not tolerate any alcohol. But, at the time, I was confused by what I had been reading. Some said alcohol could contribute to better penetration of other ingredients and some said it acted as a sterilizer.

But, for me, all alcohol did was irritating my skin, making it dry and red.

I thought what Paula said about alcohol made more sense to me, which started my interest in reading more about her views. She was also one of the first people who really emphasized the importance of using proper sunscreen products all year long.

This coincided with what my mother had always been telling me. She regularly went to health seminars in our local hospital and she always said (in the mid-90’s when the idea of everyday sun protection was not as pervasive as it is today) that a good sunscreen lotion was the best anti-ageing product. She uses a sunscreen lotion every day, and her skin looks fantastic for her age.

So, since then, I have been reading what Paula has to say about skincare and makeup products, and many of my own views are influenced by her.

Besides alcohol and sunscreen, I agree with her on the issue of eye creams. Simply speaking, there is generally no need to buy a separate moisturizer for the eye area. Most well-formulated moisturizers can be used around the eyes. Of course if a facial moisturizer has ingredients to exfoliate the skin, then it shouldn’t be used around the eyes. But what is usually the case is that the face cream and the eye cream that come in the same moisturizer range feature almost identical ingredients. If the face cream works for your skin, it should usually work around your eyes as well. I personally think eye creams are a marketing myth. They have more or less the same ingredients but cost around three times as much as the face cream equivalents in terms of unit price.

Some people think Paula’s credibility has been going down since she launched her own line. But for me, she still has the same knowledge and she doesn’t stop recommending other products that she thinks are good. Some people also point out that she doesn’t have a formal qualification to do what she is doing. But, she has the knowledge and her views are scientifically supported. Also, the studies she makes references to are not funded by private cosmetics companies. Aren’t these the most important things here?

Even in terms of the one thing I used to slightly question her, she has been modifying her view. Around ten years ago, I remember she used to almost only recommend makeup items with a matte finish and those in neutral earthy tones. I did generally agree with her view, since soft matte neutral colors suit most people for most occasions. It is the most sensible recommendation for the mass public. But I still thought she could be a little less conservative about both color and finish.

But a couple of years ago, I was pleasantly surprised to read that she thought any person could wear almost any color as long as the intensity and the application are right. (See here.) And she indeed has recommended products like Maybelline’s Dream Mousse Eyecolor and Blush, both of which have noticeable shimmer.

Overall, Paula Begoun is someone I have learned a lot from. I have learned to read the ingredient list and not to fall for the exaggerating claims of the cosmetics companies. What a product can do lies in the ingredient list (not in the ads), and we should have the knowledge to learn about what we put on our faces everyday.

We don’t necessarily need her products. We just need her knowledge.

Finally, two important reminders for everyone:

1: Learn to read the ingredient list. (Let’s all be well-informed consumers!)

2: Wear a moisturizer with proper UVA and UVB protection every day!
(See here for what ingredients you should look for.)

My next post: Dior’s Spring 2007 Collection!

(Edited on April 19, 2007: There is a great interview with Paula Begoun here.)

{ 4 comments }

Japanese vs. Western

by PJ on Thursday, January 4, 2007

in all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, skincare, What do you think? Beauty topics and thoughts

(Paul & Joe, Suqqu, Visee, and YSL…
so which side is winning?)


Several days ago, someone in the asian_beauty community over at LiveJournal asked me whether I preferred Japanese over western cosmetics. I gave an answer but was inspired to write a longer post here.

In terms of makeup, I do actually prefer Japanese products. I have ten favorite makeup brands and seven of them are Japanese. There are three main reasons:

1. I tend to go for sheer pigmentation for eyeshadows, blushers and lipsticks.

2. I love cute/elegant/princessy (depending on the brand) packaging. I know this is purely subjective. Brands like Pout and Benefit have more than merely functional packaging and they are known for cute and quirky images respectively, but I am never a fan. Not even Stila (sorry Stila fans)…I don’t like cartoon drawings on my makeup. On the other hand, brands like Ayura and Jill Stuart can do no wrong for me.

I don’t usually put my makeup items away in toiletry bags or drawers. I arrange them beautifully and display them happily on my dressing table and on the shelves. They are part of the room and part of the decor. I choose my makeup with the same aesthetic eye as I choose a table lamp or a coffee table.

The bottom line is, with many brands that have looks that appeal to me, when I need something (be it a lipstick or a foundation), I am usually able to find something that looks great, both on my face and in front of my eyes, and I will use it with more enthusiasm and joy.

And it just happens that most of these brands are Japanese.

3. A simple reason: most Japanese makeup items are scent-free.

Skincare-wise, I don’t have a preference. When I first started using skincare products, I chose them by reading the blurbs. If they sounded like something I wanted my skin to look like and if the price was within my budget, I would consider trying them. But over the years, I have learned to pay attention to the chemical aspects of skincare products. Now the first thing I look at when choosing skincare products is the ingredient list. I know what is good for my skin and what I should avoid.

In this case, the packaging is important in terms of preserving the antioxidants in, say, a moisturizer. A container with a pump dispenser is far better than a jar with a lid. (So of course we are not talking about aesthetics here.)

The thing with quite a few Japanese toners and moisturizers is that they tend to have alcohol to create that fresh feel after each use. But my sensitive skin can’t really tolerate that. (I don’t think alcohol should be in any skincare product anyway. It is potentially drying and irritating.) I do love some of the Shu Uemura products because they are alcohol-free and are so gentle. But currently most of my skincare products are from western brands. For example, my moisturizers are from Estee Lauder and Lancome, and recently I bought one from Nivea. If you happen to wonder what I use on a daily basis, read my post here.

I think many of us, especially the younger generation, are getting quite knowledgeable about what does and doesn’t work, but there are still some people who buy whatever the sales assistants say is good. I do try to encourage friends around me to learn more about ingredients in skincare products. After all, they go on our faces every single day…we might as well learn about them. I think a good place to start would be Paula Begoun’s website, as I am sure many of you know. Do some research and it will benefit you immensely!

Overall, Japanese makeup has the edge. Skincare-wise, I simply use what works for me. At the moment, there are more western products in my skincare routine, while several years ago, I used more Japanese products. So I wouldn’t say I have a clear preference. It depends on what suits my skin and what is more available at a given time and place.

So, what’s your take on this?

{ 39 comments }

Jimmy Choo vs. Marks & Spencer

by PJ on Tuesday, December 19, 2006

in fashion, What do you think? Beauty topics and thoughts

Today I read that Jimmy Choo took British highstreet chain Marks & Spencer to court over copyright infringement. They have agreed on a financial settlement.

I first read it on the BBC website. (Personal thanks to Andrew for bringing my attention to this story.) Then I read related posts on The Bag Lady and Catwalk Queen (both of which have photos of the two bags). There is also an extremely good post on Aesthetics + Economics about this issue.

We all know that designer-inspired bags are everywhere. And not only bags…what about shoes, dresses…just about anything really. Budget brands like Matalan and items on ASOS have many bags similar to those in designers’ current collections.

The case with Jimmy Choo and Marks & Spencer is really one in hundreds if not thousands. My take on this is that, as long as a Jimmy Choo lookalike does not “pretend” to actually be from Jimmy Choo (as opposed to counterfeits), I don’t really have a big problem with this.

There are so many other similar cases. The distinctive style of Chloe’s Paddington bag has been seen on ASOS and fredflare. Yet we are not seeing Chloe taking either of them to court.

Also, even though the M&S bag does indeed have the main characteristics of the Jimmy Choo one, The material, the dimensions, the colors of the various parts, and the details of the lining, among many other elements, are probably different. (But I will leave it to the experts to define what constitutes a copyright infringement in this case.)

On the other hand, counterfeit bags are those which do “pretend” to be real designer pieces. Those I do have a problem with. To say the least, they pose a huge threat to the dynamics of economy and the value of artistic creativity.

All in all, I can perfectly understand why Jimmy Choo resorts to legal action on this and I am not saying they shouldn’t do this. But perhaps they should take a more relaxed attitude. Hasn’t highstreet fashion always been a reflection of what style is in demand? And aren’t designer-inspired items, in a way, all add to the cache of designers’ originality?

What’s your view?

{ 2 comments }

Sunscreen Basics

by PJ on Monday, December 4, 2006

in skincare, skincare - moisturizing/others, What do you think? Beauty topics and thoughts

Just a reminder really. I’ll (try to!) make it short.

First of all, wear sunscreen EVERY DAY, regardless of the weather or whether you need to be outdoor for a long time. If you can see any daylight, UV rays are present and you need to use protection. I know it means you have to wear sunscreen every day for the rest of our lives, but it is human beings’ fault in the first place to have ruined Nature’s ability to shield UV rays. So we have only ourselves to blame.

Secondly, apart from proper UVB protection, which the SPF represents, UVA protection is equally important. UVB rays burn our skin and both UVA and UVB rays cause skin cancer as well as accelerate the aging of the skin (by damaging collagen fibers).

Thirdly, a sunscreen with proper UVA protection should have at least one of the following five ingredients:

zinc oxide
titanium dioxide
avobenzone (aka Parsol 1789 or butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane)
Mexoryl SX
Tinosorb

(from Paula Begoun’s website, and go there for a very comprehensive guide on sun protection)

Do learn to check the ingredient list of the sunscreen product (or any skincare product, actually) you buy. If a sunscreen product does not have any of those ingredients, it is NOT something you should pay any money for.

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