-SUQQU

(You can tell that I love my Japanese cosmetics…)


Most of you who read my blog certainly know that I have a passion for Japanese cosmetics. While I do try to keep a balance between western and Japanese cosmetics on my blog, I do think, for me, Japanese cosmetics items do better on my scoreboard in most areas.

If you would like to look through my posts related to Japanese cosmetics, I have made it a bit easier for you by adding the category All About Japanese Cosmetics on the sidebar (under “Read by Topics”). As of now, there are 96 posts under this category, and the number will certainly grow week by week.

Please enjoy!

Here are just a few highlights:

Loving Japanese Brands
(where I highlight 7 wonderful Japanese brands)

Japanese vs. Western…Who’s Winning?
(Which side are you on?)

If I Could Go to Japan RIGHT NOW
(I share my dream shopping list.)

A couple of the items featured in the photo above:

Kanebo T’Estimo Frame Impact Eyes 03

Lavshuca Eye Color Select PK-1

More to come!!

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I always find myself in various “phases” when it comes to makeup purchases. Powder foundations, eyebrow powder, lipsticks, lip glosses, and blushers are some of the major phases in the last few years. Recently there is a recurring phase emerging: loose powder.

There is something very elegant about using a loose powder to lightly set the foundation to create that wonderfully polished complexion. Usually, it takes less time to achieve it with a pressed powder, but a nice loose powder sitting on the dressing table always carries an air of glamor.

I tend to choose a sheer loose powder that is either totally matte or with very little fine shimmer. It is even more ideal if the loose powder can effectively diffuse pores.

Meet the candidates vying for my attention:

Anna Sui Loose Powder

(image from www.annasui-cosmetics.com)


I have used the very first version of Anna Sui Loose Powder. Since then, it went through two packaging changes and now we are looking at the third version. (I do like the previous gold case.)

There are six shades available, which offer a good range of choices. The best selling shade in Asia is #200, which is a very sheer lavender with quite a lot of pearly shimmer. I have tested it and it doesn’t really suit me. I think a light beige (either #700 and #701, both matte) would suit me better.

(image from www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/lunasol/)

I have read some good reviews of this loose powder, praising the fineness of the powder in particular. I also like the simple round case with the reflective copper-tone lid. #01 Translucent is an off-white with shimmer while I will be considering #02 Natural Beige, a light beige without shimmer.

Magie Deco Face Powder
(image from www.cosmedecorte.com/magiedeco/)

Kosé’s top-end brand Cosme Decorte has launched a slightly more affordable (but still high-end) makeup line this fall, Magie Deco. The packaging draws part of the inspiration from the symmetric and structural Art Deco era. I have come across some magazine coverage of this loose powder and its pore-diffusing ability grabbed my attention. Four shades are available (Lucent/ Pearl Nuance/ Natural Beige/ Pink Sparkle), and I will be considering Lucent, a sheer matte pale beige.

(image from www.suqqu.com)

I like the deep violet packaging of the new SUQQU foundation line. The Loose Powder comes in two shades, Natural and Deep. The idea is to use both shades, with Natural for highlighting and Deep for contouring. Priced at 35 pounds (around 70 USD), it is unlikely that I will pick up both. Next week I will visit the SUQQU counter and see which one suits me better overall.

It is very likely that I will pick up at least one of these four. Which one will it be? I will keep you posted!

Read more about the featured brands:

Anna Sui
(Gothic Princess)

Lunasol
(Polished Sophistication)

SUQQU
(Pure Class)

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(SUQQU Powder Foundation Glow & Chanel Mat Lumière)

(ample amount for numerous applications)

I happened to get some generous trial samples of two of the foundations I was looking forward to trying out: Chanel Mat Lumière and SUQQU Powder Foundation Glow. The samples allow many applications so I was able to really compare them.

Finish:

Both have a pleasingly matte finish. Chanel’s finish lives up to its name, as it is predominantly matte but with a natural and subtle luminosity. SUQQU creates more of a velvety matte finish, which looks very polished. I am happy with both.

Coverage:

As I usually go for a medium or medium-to-full coverage, SUQQU wins it here for me. It has an effortless medium-to-full coverage without looking chalky or cakey at all. The ultra-smooth powder almost has a moist feel, which is a joy to use. On the other hand, Chanel gives a natural and sheer-to-medium coverage. Personally, I would like a bit more coverage than this.

Pore Concealing:

Again, SUQQU wins it hands down in this category. Powder foundations from Japanese brands often do exceptionally well in smoothing out pores. Chanel falls short in covering pores effectively.

Shine Control:

This is where Chanel performs better than SUQQU. Sometimes, the trade-off for a velvety and almost moist powder foundation is that the powder doesn’t absorb sebum very effectively. In this case, Chanel’s slightly dryer powder tackles this area more successfully.

Overall, I still prefer SUQQU’s Powder Foundation Glow. It creates a great coverage and finish, and it conceals pores very well and gives a smooth and polished look. (I just need to remember to blot out the shine a bit more often.) But Chanel’s Mat Lumière is not bad at all, and it will suit someone that wants a sheer and natural look. Both are a worth a good look.

Notes on the basics:
Chanel Mat Lumière: 6 shades, SPF 10 PA +
SUQQU Powder Foundation Glow: 5 shdes, SPF16 PA ++
(PA indicates the strength of UVA protection, ranging from PA+ to PA ++++)

Related Posts:

SUQQU Fall 2007 Foundation Lineup
(See the other brand-new items apart from the foundation reviewed above.)

SUQQU: Sensuality with an Attitude
(my personal take on one of the most welcome additions to the UK beauty scene)

Chanel: The Perfect Black
(Find out why Chanel is one of my favorite brands.)

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(SUQQU’s fall 2007 foundation lineup)
(photo from www.suqqu.com/japan.html)


Like the regular seasonal color makeup launches, many Japanese brands release new foundation products in spring and fall. Some are new additions and some replace part of the collection.

SUQQU has been changing the packaging from creamy white to black and a very dark violet, and the new foundation products continue the transformation.

Looking at the whole SUQQU foundation lineup, I notice that a couple of the products have been discontinued (the Cream Foundation, which boasts a natural medium-to-full coverage, and Liquid Foundation Lucent, with sheer coverage).

But overall the foundation line (what SUQQU is mainly known for) has expanded. The new additions include:

One cream foundation
One powder foundation
One primer for the cream foundation
One primer for the powder foundation
One loose powder (SUQQU’s first loose powder)

These new items include red, yellow, and blue pigments to add vibrancy and transparency to the complexion.

I am interested in the loose powder. I usually use a powder foundation, wait for a few minutes, AND set it with loose powder for maximal lasting power. I love the very groomed and polished look. A good loose powder can really make my skin smooth and cover up the pores. (Read about my foundation routine if you are interested.) I look forward to testing all these new products later!

Outside Japan, SUQQU is available in Selfridges London (Yeah!) as well as Isetan and Central Chidlom (from September 15) in Bangkok.

Related Posts:

SUQQU: Sensuality with an Attitude
(See some stunning ads of this exquisite Japanese brand)

SUQQU Make and Skincare Review
(after trying out a lot of goodies)

SUQQU Clear Veil Powder: An Unprecedented Masterpiece
(I am *still* waiting for its debut in London in October…)


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Some distinctive trends in the fall 2007 makeup releases:

– olive green / grey eyeshadows
– intense lip colors

– retro Audrey Hepburn look

Which trend are you going to experiment with this fall?

—Grey Areas—————

In fashion, grey has been hailed as The New Black for a while. I am surprised that it didn’t trickle down to makeup earlier. This fall, grey eyeshadows will be big, among all the neutral tones.

One palette that epitomizes this trend is Shiseido Clé de Peau‘s Ombres Couleurs Quadri palette in 114 (seen below):

(Clé de Peau fall 2007 makeup ad,
Biteki magazine September 2007, p. 152-153)

(Clé de Peau fall 2007 makeup ad,
Biteki magazine September 2007, p.152)

Also, Dior‘s 5-Color Eyeshadow Palette in 060 Silver Goddess features an array of grey hues along with a sensual light blue.

Other servings of grey eyeshadows:

-Shiseido Maquillage: Sparkle Contrast Eyes 2 GY851

-Majolica Majorca: Shadow Customize BK922
-Kate: Gradical Eyes S BK-1
-Integrate: Live Fix Eyes GY812
SUQQU: Blend Eyeshadow 04

In a way, grey (especially in metallic finishes) is simply a darker silver. The look reminds me of an old-school silver-screen goddess. Very nostalgic and glamorous.

—Green with Envy—————

Another trendy color this season is olive green. Paired with pink, olive green is featured in Lush & Lovely, Chanel fall 2007 makeup collection, as it appears in the latest eyeshadow palettes: Garden Party (Les 4 Ombres Quadra) and Lotus-Cactus (Irréelle Duo).

(photo: from Chanel
at www.bergdorfgoodman.com)

Also, YSL fall 2007 makeup collection features olive green eyeshadows in a couple of the new Ombres Duo Lumières palettes.

In Japanese cosmetics, Cosme Decorte’s new line, Magie Deco, uses pink and olive green in the opposite way, with olive green above the eyes and pink along the lower lash line:

(Magie Deco ad, backcover of makeup booklet,
Biteki September 2007)

Apart from Magie Deco, olive green eyeshadows are also used in:

Kate‘s fall 2007 TV ad (with Gradical Eyes S GN-1)
SUQQU‘s fall 2007 printed ad (with Blend Eyeshadow 01).

Olive green seems to be a relatively masculine color as an eyeshadow, which might be why it has been paired with pink to create a balanced look. But, worn alone, it can be very edgy.

—A La Audrey—————

Givenchy‘s fall 2007 collection, Camouflage Chic, pays tribute to the classic Givenchy muse, Audrey Hepburn. A search in Google Images comes out with photos of what I think is one of the most beautiful people ever, with clean, crisp, and defined eye makeup. Intense color fills between the lash line and the crease line and it is kept clean everywhere else. No smoky eyes here.

Givenchy’s latest Prismissime Eyes in 54 Cache Cache can get you this classic look:

(photo: from www.sephora.com)

Shiseido The Makeup‘s new Silky Eye Shadow Quad in Q9 Lunar Phases is based on the same trend.

Again, this is definitely a very retro look. I think “Less is more” is the key here. Don’t overdo it and keep it nice and simple.

—Strong Lips—————

What if you don’t want to pile on intense eye colors? You can channel the intensity to the lips. Keep the eye makeup fuss-free and choose a rich satiny (not glossy) lip shade. The cover of Biteki September 2007 shows how it’s done:

(cover of Biteki, September 2007)

It can be a wine red, berry red (as in the Chanel ad above), or a warm brownish red. With careful coordination, they can go with grey or olive green eyeshadows, as in Estee Lauder’s fall 2007 look:

(photo: from esteelauder.co.uk)


I quite like this look. Chic and timeless.

What other trends have you spotted?

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(SUQQU Clear Veil Powder)
(photo from
www.suqqu.com/japan.html)

I have mentioned innovation in Japanese cosmetics last week in another post. Today I am talking about another product exemplifying this.

SUQQU’s Clear Veil Powder, launch in fall 2006, has created a sensation. “Magical”, “unbelievable”, “shocking”, and “an unprecedented masterpiece” are some of the expressions that Japanese beauty experts used to describe this finishing pressed powder (Frau magazine, November 2006).

What is unprecedented about this pressed powder is that each powder particle is see-through. Yes, we’ve all used loose powder that is translucent and doe not add color, but this one is almost totally “transparent”.

You can see that there seems to be the word “SUQQU” on the powder. But the word is in fact indented at the bottom of the tin case holding the pressed powder. It is for the sole purpose of showcasing this ingenious innovation.

It is able to mattify and smooth the skin without making it chalky. The powder particles are transparent so the face simply won’t look chalky.

Primers are a huge business in Japanese cosmetics, and there have been many innovative products. I would imagine SUQQU’s Clear Veil Powder is a silicone-based mattifying liquid primer — in pressed powder form and used as a finishing powder. If this is the case, I’d call it a post-primer. (I know it is sort of an oxymoron, but I am sure you get the idea.) Since it is applied after the foundation (unlike a primer of course), it has the potential of giving (and keeping) a really even, smooth, and matte appearance.

I haven’t actually tried it, but the people at the SUQQU counter in Selfridges in London told me a couple of months ago that it might appear in the UK in the coming fall. I am very excited about this! If I do get to try it, I will follow this up with another report.

Updated on April 24th 2009:

Please check out the review of Clear Veil Powder here.

Related posts:
—SUQQU: Sensuality with an Attitude
—Review: SUQQU Makeup and Skincare
—One of a Kind: SUQQU Spring 2007 Eyeshadow in Daichi (Mother Earth)

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I have talked about SUQQU several times, and I have praised its strong themes and stunning ad campaigns for its seasonal makeup collections.

Sometimes it only takes a single unique product in the collection to warrant all the building up to it:

Powder Eye Shadow in Daichi (EX-51)

Why? On the website and on the leaflet I got, it just looked like any ubiquitous deep brown eyeshadow. But when I tested it on the back of my hand, I realized that I had never tried anything else like this before.

The smooth (almost-creamy) texture, typical of SUQQU’s eyeshadows and blushers, is still there, but this brown eyeshadow has twinkly deep midnight blue sparkles. The finish is so absolutely gorgeous. It is still predominantly matte, while the sparse diamond-dust deep-blue particles really stand out and shine against the matte brown background.

It must be like a clear night in the desert.

If you happen to be near a SUQQU counter, you simply have to try it.

Again and again, SUQQU shows that their products epitomize Japanese sensitivity and sensuality. It’s all very subtle but it is enough to have you in awe.

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In the coming posts, I reveal my top 10 of this season’s makeup collections. (Do let me know what tops your list!)

Here we go, in reverse order:

#10: The Body Shop (Vital Brights Collection)

The Look: It is a feast of colors. Cool-tone eyes, rosy cheeks, syrupy lips, and a bit of tan. It is a small collection, but it is one of the most colorful additions from The Body Shop for a few seasons.

Key Items: Eye Color Fusion in blue and green. (Wear them in moderation!)

#9: SUQQU (Daichimegami “Goddess of Earth”)

The Look: Strong,distinctive, and coherent, it is about shades of blue (sea/sky) and beige (earth/desert). Do check out the link above…it is an absolutely beautiful presentation of the collection from the official website. (Japanese brands are so good at this.)

Key Items: Powder Eye Shadow in shades of blue. A strong midnight blue or a bright powdery sky blue…the choice is yours.

Before revealing the rest of my top 10, my next two posts are going to be about Oscar fashion 2007. Stay tuned!

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(pictured: my SUQQU lipstick,
samples, and catalogue)

As requested by a reader, I decided to write a post about some individual SUQQU products after I had a more thorough look and got several samples earlier this month.

What really impresses me is the texture of their makeup. The lipsticks are so creamy, and the eyeshadows and blushers are so luxuriously silky that they almost seem creamy as well.

I am particularly keen on Powdery Cheeks in #11 (Ashibi), which is such a universally flattering color for most medium and light skin-tones.

One of their best-sellers is the Stick Concealer. The white one is used first as a base. Blending only comes after one of the two beige ones is layered on top of it. The white concealer is light-reflective and enhances the coverage of the beige concealer.

Here are some thoughts about what I have actually used:

1.Creamy Lip Stick in #22 (Benikoji)

I bought this in my first visit. It is a nice beige pink (even though it looks quite red in the photo). Pigmented and creamy, it is a great color for this season’s polished (and non-glossy) nude look.

2. Cream Foundation

I got a sample of this. Out of all their foundation formulations, this one provides the most coverage. It is not too difficult to blend (with my fingers) and it covers my pores fairly well. The staying power isn’t too bad. It has a dewy finish, which I don’t really like since I have quite oily skin. But I can use a matte loose powder to set the foundation, so that doesn’t bother me too much. (The color I got (#03) is slightly too pale and ashy for my medium skin-tone.)

3. Liquid Foundation Natural

I also got a sample of this. It provides more coverage than Liquid Foundation Skinny (light coverage) and Liquid Foundation Lucent (sheer coverage). It is one of the most easily blendable foundations I have ever tried. But the drawback is the staying power, which is not as good as the Creamy Foundation. The coverage is light to medium, and I would prefer more. Overall, I much prefer the Creamy Foundation.

I got this one in #04. Even though #04 should be the immediate darker shade than #03 for all their foundations, it is actually slightly too dark for me (while #03 is slightly too pale). Maybe the secret lies in #03B, which is between the two shades?

4. HA Complex Cream

Sample again. (The actual product costs about 240 USD for 30g…) I actually don’t like it that much simply because I am quite certain it has alcohol. Even though I couldn’t smell it, my skin turned a bit red about 10 minutes after application, which is typical with any moisturizer with any amount of alcohol. (I will probably have my neck enjoy this very expensive moisturizer…)

I have also got samples of HA Complex Lotion, HA Complex Emulsion, and Make Up Base. But I can really smell alcohol in all these (which is unfortunately so common with a lot of Japanese skincare products). I don’t think my face can handle any of these…

All skincare products have their signature orchid fragrance. It does smell gorgeous, even though it is much better for skincare products to be fragrance-free. In Japan last Christmas, SUQQU had a limited-edition perfume based on this orchid note. I am really hoping it will be re-released as part of the permanent collection!

One skincare product I am actually quite keen on is the Lip Essence Cream. It is very emollient and creamy. Too bad it is so pricey (about 60 USD)!

I personally think SUQQU is stronger in makeup than in skincare. But it is only because my skin can’t really tolerate alcohol and any massaging (the Musculate Massage Cream, which is used daily, is the heart of their skincare regime) and because I do think their color makeup range is simply sublime.

I look forward to seeing their spring 2007 collection. It looks great on the website and I love a makeup collection with a strong theme. I’ll definitely review it after I see it in store.

————-
Edited, on February 25, 2007, as requested by reader:

Price list of reviewed products in UK
(from SUQQU catalogue)

Creamy Lip Stick: £24
Powdery Cheeks: £22
Stick Concealer: £20
Cream Foundation: £60
Liquid Foundation Natural: £40
Liquid Foundation Skinny: £40
Liquid Foundation Lucent: £30
Make Up Base: £24
HA Complex Lotion: £45
HA Complex Emulsion: £70
HA Complex Cream: £120
Lip Essence Cream: £30
Musculate Massage Cream: £60

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(stunning ad from SUQQU’s Fall 2006 collection)
(from www.suqqu.com)
.

Back in September 2003, when SUQQU‘s first counter opened in Isetan Department Store (a world-class cosmetics heaven, and an ultimate battlefield for all brands) in Shinjuku, Tokyo, people were waiting outside the store for the doors to open. The revenue of its first day of sale broke the record of this upmarket department store for a debut brand (Voce Magazine, March 2007).

Why did so many people rush to buy SUQQU’s products even before they sampled them and why has it been successful since its debut? Apart from the quality of the products itself, I think there are two very crucial reasons.

First of all, in a youth-obsessed society (in a globally youth-obsessed era), where packaging is getting cuter and the colors are getting funkier, SUQQU resorts to the reverse strategy. It targets mature grown-ups. It appeals to women who are successful, classy, intelligent, and sophisticated. I believe that, by doing so, it also appeals to young women who look up to their more mature peers. It altogether creates a surprisingly wide market.

Another reason is their beautifully constructed theme for each season and the visual brilliance of their ad campaigns that convey the theme. Usually printed cosmetics ads feature the face of the model freshly made up against a muted background. Pretty straightforward, but dull at the same time. Not SUQQU’s ads. They always have a sense of message and story, and it certainly helps when the colors of each seasonal makeup collection have such a strong identity.

Last spring, it was a collection which couldn’t be more pink, with pink eyeshadows, pink lipsticks, and pink blushers. The ad featured beautiful full-bloomed flowers as the backdrop:

(ad for SUQQU’s spring 2006 collection)

(from www.suqqu.com)
.

Last fall, the collection featured primary colors used in ancient Japanese pottery. The ad (at top of the page) is stunning. But I think the upcoming spring 2007 collection is even more impressive. The theme is “goddess of the earth”. The eyeshadows are shades of blue and beige, paired with beige and brown lipsticks. It’s the sea versus the desert, bare earth versus deep ocean. The ad features a woman between the desert and the blue sky/ocean. She looks confident and in charge.

(SUQQU makeup leaflet for summer 2007)
.

Primary colors and shades of blue are not easy to pull off. But SUQQU’s message is “Wear them and be confident!” Packaged minimally with oriental sensitivity and sensuality, the colors inside are bursting with personality and attitude. All of these give SUQQU a very unique edge.

Later this month, I’ll come back to SUQQU again and review some of the makeup and skincare products. There are some fantastic products to be written about, including the smoothest eyeshadows I have ever tried.

Stay tuned!

Next: a lipgloss that has sold over one million copies in Japan.

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