stash focus

Jill Stuart Jelly Eye Color N in 08 Crystal Sky

by PJ on Monday, October 12, 2009

in -Jill Stuart, 2009 Summer, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - eyeshadow, stash focus

Jill Stuart‘s Jelly Eye Color was a very popular item in the brand’s makeup lineup. Earlier this year, the new Jelly Eye Color N was released. I was instantly drawn to the lovely container. The previous version was cute, while the new one is more ornate.

08 Crystal Sky is a medium-to-dark mauve that has a slight grey undertone, and it is a color that I didn’t have before. (The purples I tend to go for are lighter than this.) It has a lot of sparkly particles, which are silver-toned under sunlight and beautifully multi-colored under certain kinds of artificial lighting. The particles are sparkly but not glittery.

It has a spongy jelly texture and is relatively easy to apply with fingertips. It dries up quite quickly, so blending has to be swift. Once it sets, the color is very long-lasting and it doesn’t crease on my eyes. The sparkly finish holds well too.

It has the same light floral scent as that in many of Jill Stuart’s makeup products. It is subtle and not overpowering.

For me, the shade is a little too dark and too sparkly to be worn as a shadowing shade on the lids (especially for daytime makeup). It is the kind of shade that I would usually only wear near the lashlines, and obviously it is difficult to keep the color very close to the eyes when I apply it with my fingertips. I find it much easier to use a cotton bud or a sponge eyeshadow applicator to apply the shade exactly where I want. Then I use the fingertips to blend and blur the edges.

I do really like it very close to my lashlines. As a soft eyelining shade, it is dark enough to gently frame and accentuate the eyes while still looking natural. The sparkles also look subtler this way.

I have mentioned before that I do prefer powder eyeshadows to non-powder ones. It is still the case with Jill Stuart’s Jelly Eye Color N and my powder eyeshadows, but I think Jelly Eye Color N’s formula does help hold the sparkly particles on the eyes. (There is almost no sparkle fallout.) If you like sparkly or very shimmery eyeshadows, Jelly Eye Color N is certainly worth your consideration.

Jill Stuart Mix Blush Compact in 01 Baby Blush

Jill Stuart Holiday 2009 Collection

Jill Stuart Fall 2009 Collection & 5th Anniversary Jewel Collection

{ 6 comments }

Lavshuca Finish Powder in Lucent & High Cover

by PJ on Wednesday, September 9, 2009

in -Kanebo, -Lavshuca, 2009 Spring, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - powder, stash focus

First of all, I know that some of you have been waiting for this review for quite a while. I am sorry for the delay, and I hope you will enjoy reading this review.

Lavshuca Finish Powder was released in February this year and it is meant to replace Face Powder. It is available in two shades, Lucent and High Cover. I wasn’t sure which shade to get, since I really liked Face Powder in Lucent and I was also curious about High Cover. In the end I decided to get both.

When I saw the packaging in person, I actually liked it more than I thought I would. Obviously it is not as princessy as the more ornate Face Powder, but I still think it is quite pretty. The center of the lid is gently raised, which I think is a nice touch.

The case is smaller than that of Face Powder. The Face Powder case measures 7.7 cm in diameter (at the widest part) while the Finish Powder case measures 6.4 cm in diameter. Face Powder has 16g of powder while Finish Powder in Lucent has 9.8g of powder and High Cover has 6.8g. (I find the difference quite interesting. The two cases seem to contain roughly the same amount of powder and I think the difference is down to the ingredients, which I will touch upon later.)

The powder puff still has the cute bow, but the puff itself is smaller than the one included in Face Powder to fit the smaller case.

(Lavshuca Finish Powder in Lucent)

Now onto the powder itself. If you like Face Powder in Lucent, you shouldn’t be disappointed with Finish Powder in Lucent, which is quite similar. It is a predominantly matte setting powder with a hint of fine shimmer and with a very light coverage. It has a good pore coverage and does well in oil control. The fine powder feels soft on the skin.

I was surprised to find that High Cover doesn’t have more coverage than Lucent. (It won’t be able to replace a foundation.) Finish-wise, it is more matte than Lucent and it has no visible shimmer. In terms of ingredients, High Cover has kaolin, which is second on the ingredient list. (Lucent doesn’t have kaolin but has mica, which High Cover doesn’t have.) I do find that High Cover does a slightly (only slightly) better job in shine control, and this is probably down to the absorbent quality of kaolin. (I think the differences in the ingredients might explain why Lucent weighs more than High Cover even though the two cases have more or less the same amount of powder.)

(I didn’t include a photo of High Cover in this post mainly because Lucent and High Cover look similar in color. High Cover looks slightly lighter and slightly less yellow-toned than Lucent. Both are relatively sheer so there is virtually no difference in color when they are worn on the skin.)

Even though High Cover does slightly better in shine control, I personally prefer Lucent. First of all, I like Lucent’s soft-focus finish. It disguises the look of pores well and it gives the face a polished look. High Cover is nicely matte (not chalky matte) but it doesn’t do as well in pore coverage. Secondly, I personally don’t like kaolin in foundations. It does help absorb sebum but it can also absorb moisture, which can potentially dry out the skin.

Overall, I think Lucent should suit most skin types and should please those who go for an almost-matte finish with a touch of shimmer. If you would like a shimmer-less loose powder and if you have no issue with kaolin, then High Cover might be a good choice as well.

SUQQU Loose Powder in Natural
(if you want more shimmer)

Crème de la Mer The Powder in Translucent
(another shimmery loose powder)

Kiss Mat Chiffon Powder
(another great loose powder for an almost-matte polished finish)

Coffret D’Or Makeup Powder
(an ultra-natural loose powder)

Japanese Base Makeup Week

{ 18 comments }

Coffret D’Or Color Mixing Eyes in Lavender Purple Mix

by PJ on Friday, August 7, 2009

in -Coffret d'Or, -Kanebo, 2009 Summer, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - eyeshadow, stash focus

The Color Mixing Eyes series is part of Kanebo Coffret D’Or‘s summer 2009 collection. Today I am sharing my thoughts on 04 Lavender Purple Mix.

The four colors in this palette are:

Bottom left: sheer off-white with soft shimmer
Top left: moderately pigmented light cool lavender with a mildly sparkly finish
Top right: moderately pigmented light-to-medium purple with soft shimmer
Bottom right: pigmented dark plum-purple

All shades have multi-colored shimmer. They go on easily and have a decent staying power.

The interesting thing about Color Mixing Eyes is that the top two shades are designed to be mixed together for the eyelids, and the two shades in this palette do work well together. With two slightly different finishes (the cool lavender on the left is more sparkly), the two shades together are able to create a dimensional look and the overall color is a soft cool purple.

(According to the eye chart on the back of the outer packaging, the cool lavender is also used along the inner 1/3 of the lower lashline.)

Compared with the previous series of Coffret D’Or’s eyeshadow palettes, Color Mixing Eyes is sheerer than Trance Deep Eyes (fall 2008) and 3D Lighting Eyes (spring 2008, marginally the most pigmented among the four series) and is more or less as sheer as Shine Accent Eyes (spring 2009). Among the four, Trance Deep Eyes is still the most shimmery/sparkly.

The look that this palette creates is fresh, cool, and summery, mainly due to the cool-toned lavender. For me, the color from mixing the two purples is a little too cool for my liking. I have tried using the purple on the right on its own on my lids, and I think this look suits my slightly warm-toned complexion better.

Overall, this is a satisfying palette and I should be going back to it quite often. If you would like a light and cool look for the eyes for summer (instead of the warm bronze look), this palette will be a very good choice. Also, if the purples you usually go for are medium-to-cool ones, then this palette would also be quite ideal.

Coffret D’Or Fall 2009 Point Makeup Collection

Coffret D’Or Fall 2009 Base Makeup Collection

Coffret D’Or Makeup Powder

{ 6 comments }

Daytime Moisturizer Update: Olay Complete Care Daily Sensitive UV Fluid SPF 15

by PJ on Wednesday, July 29, 2009

in -Olay, skincare, skincare - moisturizing/others, stash focus

In May 2007, I posted about Olay’s Multi-Radiance Daily Illuminating UV Fluid SPF 15. It was my daytime moisturizer/sunscreen product for about two years. It is a nicely formulated product and I have recommended it to some of my readers.

Earlier this year, I was looking through the ingredient lists of some other daytime moisturizers from Olay in my local Boots store and I decided to try Complete Care Daily UV Fluid SPF 15 (for Normal/Oily Skin) and Complete Care Daily Sensitive UV Fluid SPF 15 (for Sensitive Skin). After using them for several months, I can say that I am very happy with both.

I was very pleased with the Multi-Radiance moisturizer, which is a competent sunscreen product (with ingredients to protect against UVA and UVB rays) that contains niacinamide. It was moisturizing without being greasy, it didn’t cause breakouts or irritation, and it worked for me all year around.

However, there are two ingredients the product doesn’t need to have. One is citrus nobilis (mandarin extract), which can be a skin irritant. It didn’t irritate my skin but I thought it would be nice to use a product that doesn’t contain this. The other is mica, which is one of the ingredients in makeup products that create shimmer. It is usually used in skincare products to create a subtle glow for the skin. (It doesn’t have skincare benefits.) Even though it didn’t make my skin look too glowy, I’d prefer skincare products with fewer ingredients whose effects are merely cosmetic.

Like the Multi-Radiance moisturizer, both of the Complete Care ones are well-formulated sunscreen products (with butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane to protect against UVA rays) and both contain niacinamide. Neither of them contains citrus nobilis or mica. Compared with Multi-Radiance, both have a lighter texture. (The two are very similar in texture.)

At the very moment I am using the one for normal/oily skin, but I will be going back to the one for sensitive skin. It was the one I used first when I bought the two and it will become my staple daytime moisturizer. The main reason is that it is fragrance-free. (The other two contain fragrance.)

One thing I would like to point out is that all the three moisturizers, as well as many others from Olay, contain benzyl alcohol, which can be a skin irritant. But it is not among the major ingredients in any of the three and I haven’t had negative reactions to them.

On a very minor note, I wish the bottles (pictured above) would come with a pump dispenser.

Overall, both are nice products. They spread effortlessly, absorb easily and don’t leave a greasy film. Both work well under makeup too. I would recommend them (especially the one for sensitive skin) to those with combination and oily skin as a daytime moisturising/sunscreen product.

Other skincare products I am using at the moment:

Olay Complete Care Night Enriched Cream

RMK Cleansing Oil

Lancôme Tonique Douceur

{ 6 comments }

Stash Update: Coffret D’Or & Lavshuca

by PJ on Monday, July 13, 2009

in -Coffret d'Or, -Kanebo, -Lavshuca, 2009 Spring, 2009 Summer, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, stash focus

I have received Coffret D’Or’s Color Mixing Eyes in 04 Lavender-Purple Mix (for summer 2009) and both Lucent and High Cover of Lavshuca’s Finish Powder (for spring/summer 2009). I will start trying them out very soon and I will post the reviews later on!

{ 8 comments }

Kanebo Coffret D’Or Shine Accent Eyes 02 Pink Variation

by PJ on Tuesday, May 12, 2009

in -Coffret d'Or, -Kanebo, 2009 Spring, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - eyeshadow, stash focus

Coffret D’Or‘s Shine Accent Eyes is part of the brand’s spring 2009 collection and the brand’s third series of eye palettes. Having good experiences with the previous two, I decided to try one palette from the new series. Of course I went for the one with lilac.

02 Pink Variation includes:

Top: very sheer white with soft fine shimmer
Left: sheer light pink with pearly shimmer
Right: moderately-pigmented medium lilac with a pink-plum undertone and pearly shimmer
Middle: a gel-cream liner with off-white sparkles

As with other Coffret D’Or eye palettes, the powder is soft and very easy to blend. The colors have a good staying power.

The pink is on the sheer side and it shows up less on my eyes than on the back of my hand, which is slightly lighter than my face. It should show up more on a fair skin tone than on my light-to-medium skin tone. (It is still more pigmented than the off-white pinks in Lunasol’s Sheer Contrast Eyes in Lavender Coral and Coffret D’Or’s Trance Deep Eyes in Rose Variation.)

The lilac is a soft shading color that goes on warmer than it looks in the pan as it has a pronounced soft muted pinkish (but not reddish) plum undertone. It is warmer than the main lilac in Lunasol’s Layer Bloom Eyes in Purple Gradation.

The gel-cream liner has a dense consistency. According to the eye chart on the back of the outer packaging, it is applied along the lower lashline. The shimmery flecks are larger than the shimmery particles in the other three shades, and the finish is quite sparkly.

This palette creates a soft daytime look with a beautiful shimmery finish. (But I would go easy on the gel-cream liner for daytime.) Compared with the previous Coffret D’Or releases, the overall finish (of the three powder shades) is slightly more shimmery than 3D Lighting Eyes (between pearly and shimmery) and less so than the Trance Deep Eyes (quite sparkly). I also like the pinkish lilac, which is different from the (many) ones I have.

However, because there is no dark lining shade, I personally feel that this palette is less versatile than those from the previous series. Also, I would prefer the pink to be slightly more pigmented so that I could create more looks.

(I have been using the deep violet from 3D Lighting Eyes’ Purple Variation as an eyeliner to go with this palette.)

I think I have more or less formed the habit of trying Coffret D’Or’s new eye palette series, and I am looking forward to the upcoming Color Mixing Eyes, out next month.

Betsy at Autumn Masquerade has reviewed Shine Accent Eyes in 04 Blue Variation. Do have a look!

Lunasol Layer Bloom Eyes in 03 Purple Gradation

by PJ on Tuesday, April 28, 2009

in -Kanebo, -Lunasol, 2009 Spring, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - eyeshadow, stash focus

Another season, another lilac palette joining my collection…

Lunasol‘s Layer Bloom Eyes* palettes are part of Lunasol’s spring 2009 Floral Purification collection. 03 Purple Gradation is inspired by wisteria (fuji) and includes (anti-clock-wise from top-left):

– sheer white with multi-colored sparkles
– medium lilac with a soft pearly finish (moderately pigmented)
– predominantly matte cool-toned dark grey with sparse shimmer (well-pigmented)
– light lilac with a mildly shimmery finish (moderately pigmented)

All the shades are very soft and easy to apply, and the finish lasts well.

According to the eye chart that comes with the palette, the sheer white is used as a base, the medium lilac is used as a shadowing shade, and the dark grey is for the upper lashline and the outer 1/3 of the lower lashline. The light lilac is applied on the inner 2/3 of the lower lashline.

I really like how the two lilacs work together. The medium lilac has an exceptionally soft texture, and blending is effortless. I can go as sheer or intense as I want with this shade. When applied on the lower lashline, the light lilac seems to look more intense (slightly darker) than it does in the pan. It has a delicate iridescence and brightens the eyes very effectively without creating a stark look.

What I also like about the two lilacs is that the beautiful color seems very long-lasting. After 12 hours of wear, it is not uncommon for some lilacs to take on a very mild bluey-grey hue as the color starts to fade (and I don’t usually take this to be an indication of inferior quality). But the two lilacs here are able to stay fresh almost throughout the day, which impresses me.

Compared with Lunasol’s Lavender Coral palette from spring 2008, I think Purple Gradation is a lot more elegant and understated. The colors are less sparkly and the overall finish is more pearly than shimmery. (Between the two main lilac shades, the one in Purple Gradation is slightly warmer than that in Lavender Coral. I like both equally.) On the whole, Purple Gradation is more similar to Scent Form Eyes in 02 but it is marginally more vibrant due to the mild iridescence. (Scent Form Eyes in 02 is certainly the most low-key of the three.)

Overall, this is a beautiful lilac palette which is very easy to wear, in terms of both the colors and the superb texture of the powder. If you are looking for something as vibrant as the Sheer Contrast Eyes and the Geminate Eyes series, then this palette might not be for you. But if you want a sophisticated eye palette that is not overly shimmery, then the Layer Bloom Eyes series is a must-see.

(It appears that, since the fall 2008 Red Purification collection, Lunasol’s eye palettes are returning to the elegant and understated finish that the brand started off with. It would be interesting to see whether the trend will shift again.)

You can read my friend Betsy’s review of this palette here on Autumn Masquerade.

* Though this palette series is officially called Layer Bloom Eyes, the English name on the outer boxes of palettes sold outside Japan is Blooming Eyes. Check out the photo on this post for the difference.

Lunasol Fall 2009 Collection

Lunasol Summer 2009 Collection
(more Layer Bloom Eyes palettes)

My Personal Take on Lunasol

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Sheer Stella 2009 from Stella McCartney

by PJ on Friday, March 27, 2009

in -Stella McCartney, fragrance, stash focus

Last week, I came across Sheer Stella 2009, and, as a collector, I had to get it.

This year, the shade of the bottle is peachy-pink, with the rose motif in a frosted texture. I do like the contrast between the glossed and frosted finishes (which were also on the bottle of Sheer Stella 2005) and I prefer this bottle design to last year’s, but overall my favorite two are still the 2005 and 2007 ones.

You can see Sheer Stella 2004-2007 here.

Last year’s Sheer Stella is quite unique because of the freesia and raspberry notes it has. Sheer Stella 2009 has gone back to lemon and green apple as top notes, It is, not surprisingly, very similar to the first few editions. According to Now Smell This, the notes include lemon, green apple, rose and amber. Compared with Stella, Sheer Stella is generally more cooling and fresh than sensual. For me, it is a very lovely scent that is never too sweet or powdery, great for a warm summer day. (I hope we will have a decent summer in the UK this year…)

Related posts (other great spring/summer scents):

Bulgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert

Bond No. 9 Coney Island

Escada Moon Sparkle

{ 2 comments }

Jill Stuart Mix Blush Compact in 01 Baby Blush

by PJ on Monday, February 9, 2009

in -Jill Stuart, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - blusher, stash focus

Since Jill Stuart‘s Mix Blush Compact was launched in fall 2007, it has become one of the brand’s most popular products. Currently, there are six shades available. (01, 02, 03, and 04 were out in fall 2007, 06 was released in spring 2008, and 07 and 08 were recently available for spring 2009. 05 was a limited-edition item in fall 2007.) Today I am sharing my thoughts on 01 Baby Blush.

Like all the other variations, the blusher comes in a very pretty and princessy compact. A retractable brush is attached to the compact. (It can be detached.)

All Mix Blush Compacts feature four shades that can be used separately or together. I decided to go for 01, which contained an off-white pink, two cool pinks, and one warm pink with a hint of coral.

The powder is very fine and silky. The lightest shade has a pearly finish and some fine shimmery particles, while the other three have a subtly luminous finish. Used together, they give a glowy finish to the cheeks. I personally think it is a little too glowy for me, so I usually skip the lightest shade. The lasting power is fairly good, and the fresh cool-pink shade doesn’t turn dull overtime.

I am sure many of you have read other reviews of Mix Blush Compacts, and opinions seem to vary with regard to the quality of the brush and the pigmentation level of the colors. I think the quality of the brush is decent. The hair is nicely dense and the bristle-heads are soft to the touch, but the hair is slightly stiff. The brush is on the small side but it can be very useful in picking up individual colors from the compact.

In terms of the color intensity, I would say the blusher is moderately pigmented. You will be likely to think it is quite sheer if you are used to some of the highly pigmented blushers from MAC and Bobbi Brown. But Japanese blushers, overall, tend to be subtle and are more about recreating the natural flush, and Mix Blush Compact is actually more pigmented than items like Lavshuca’s Cheek Color in 01 and SUQQU’s Blend Cheeks in 05. (Personally, I prefer lightly-to-moderately blushers, and I actually have to be slightly light-handed with it.)

Overall, Mix Blush Compact is a very good item, as it combines beautiful packaging and a solid performance of the colors. Last year, I came across the news that Jill Stuart Beauty would be launched in the US this year. If you are interested in trying out the line, I think Mix Blusher Compact is a good item to go for.

Related posts:

A Touch of Blusher talks…blushers!

Maybelline Dream Mousse Blush in 04

Chanel Irréelle Blush in Tea Rose

Western vs. Japanese…Who’s Winning?

{ 12 comments }

Can’t Live Without: Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream

by PJ on Thursday, February 5, 2009

in _Can't Live Without, -Elizabeth Arden, bodycare, bodycare - handcare, skincare, skincare - moisturizing/others, stash focus

(This is an update of a previous post, after which I launched the “Can’t Live Without” series.)

Some of you might have read about the heavy snowfall in the UK this week. (It is the heaviest in the last two decades.) With the low temperatures and the drying indoor heating (and all the contact with water from washing my hands), my nail cuticles can be very dry and sometimes even a little sore.

Two years ago I got a 5ml sample of Elizabeth Arden’s Eight Hour Cream at the counter. I tried it on my cuticles and it worked very well (even better than the L’Occitane Nail & Cuticle Cream I had been using). Later on, a friend of mine was traveling to the US and asked me if I would like her to pick up something. Knowing that it was much cheaper in the US (16 USD in the US and 19 GBP here at the time), I asked her to buy it for me. Even though I do use other items occasionally, I always come back to this when I need some serious moisture.

As most of you know, it is a dense semi-transparent orange-colored gel-cream. (I have tried using it as a lip balm. It works fine, but the smell is a little overpowering.) It contains moisturizing agents like petrolatum, mineral oil, castor seed oil, and corn oil. (I like the fact that it does not contain fragrant plant oils, such as lemon oil or orange peel oil, as they can irritate the skin.)

I am suspecting that one of the reasons that it works well to soothe sore cuticles is that it contains salicylic acid, which is an anti-irritant. (Apart from salicylic acid, petrolatum is also known to have anti-inflammatory properties.)

Because of the dense texture, I only use it before bedtime, on top of my Garnier hand cream. (I don’t feel that I need to use it more often than this.) Out of all the products I have used on my cuticles, I think this one works the best to keep them moisturized and protected.

The Eight Hour Cream can work as a multi-purposed product, but, I think, even if I just use it as a cuticle cream, it is worth the purchase (well…if I can get it from the US…). Plus, a 50ml tube will last a very long time…

My Beauty Weakness: Cute Cuticle Oils

Can’t Live Without: Dove Body Silk

Can’t Live Without: Starbucks Napkins

{ 6 comments }

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