skincare – moisturizing/others

(Olay Complete Care Night Enriched Cream)


Happy new year everyone! I wish all of you a healthy and happy 2008!

Today I am talking about my current nighttime moisturizer. In my post on my daily skincare routine, I mentioned Lancôme’s Hydra Zen was my chosen moisturizer for nighttime. But, about six months ago, Hydra Zen changed its formulation for the fourth time. Unlike the last three times, when there were only minor changes, the 4th-generation Hydra Zen’s ingredient list looks very different. It is still a suitable moisturizer for me (I used a couple of samples), but it was apparent to me that my skin didn’t like it as much.

I decided to look for a replacement. Usually, finding a replacement skincare product can be painful and can involve wasted money. (Opened and used cosmetics products are not returnable and refundable in the UK.) But, since, at that time, I had just started to like Olay Complete Care Daily Illuminating UV Fluid SPF 15, I thought I’d tried another moisturizer from Olay.

The one I got is Olay Complete Care Night Enriched Cream. It sounds like it is really dense and possibly greasy. But, when I tried the in-store tester, it seemed clear that it was not. It seemed light but still emollient, and it appeared to be suitable for my oily-dry skin. With Olay being a relatively affordable brand, I thought I’d try it out.

I really liked it the first time I used it. Even though it has a cream consistency, it is surprisingly lightweight and has a good slip. It is moisturizing and absorbs well, but it doesn’t feel heavy or look greasy at all. For me, it is a competent moisturizer for all seasons. Obviously, this is the first winter when I am using it. All I need is just to use a bit more of it than I do in warmer months, and I don’t need to layer on any other product.

One thing worth mentioning is that one of the major ingredients in this moisturizer is niacinamide. Paula Begoun describes ingredients like niacinamide and retinol as “cell-communicating ingredients“, which are able to work effectively at the cellular level to help improve the conditions and appearance of skin. (Read more about niacinamide and cell-communicating ingredients on Paula Begoun’s website.)

It contains benzyl alcohol, which can be a skin irritant. But it is not among the major ingredients and I have not had negative reactions to the product.

Overall this is a well-formulated moisturizer that happens to have the texture and the degree of emolliency that really suit me. I am quite positive that, as long as it remains available in the UK, I will continue to use it.

Related Posts:

10 Golden Skincare Rules
(Let’s try to follow all of them in 2008!)

A Touch of Blusher’s Anti-Aging Week
(my week-long series on facts and thoughts on anti-aging skincare)

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(No 7 Gentle Renewing No Grains Exfoliator)
(photo from www.boots.com)

My sensitive skin can’t really tolerate regular exfoliating, but from time to time I do feel like a bit of scrubbing.

Among the samples I have used, I quite liked Estée Lauder’s Idealist Micro-D Deep Thermal Refinisher and Chanel’s Gommage Microperlé Élat. But I was still searching for something even milder.

I felt I hit the jackpot when I tried Boots’ No 7 Gentle Renewing No Grains Exfoliator.

No grains? So how does it exfoliate? Enzyme? No. AHA? No.

The main exfoliating agent is mica. Yes, it is the kind of mineral powder that gives your eyeshadows and foundations a bit of shimmer. (I can see the shimmer when I have a bit of the product on the back of my hand.) It is this fine powder that is doing the job.

So, technically, it is not “No Grains”, since mica is still a kind of physical particle. But it is so fine that I don’t feel that my face is being scrubbed. (It goes on simply like a liquid-y lotion.)

For me, it does a sublime job! My face feels and looks smoother after each use, and it is so gentle that it doesn’t give my face any redness, dryness, or discomfort.

I am in my second tube now and this product will continue to be a proud resident in my bathroom for quite some time to come!

Some other skincare posts:

My Daily Skincare Routine
(Do we share favorites?)

Rose & Co. Apothecary’s Rose Petal Salve
(A great lip balm that looks so adorable…)

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(Amatokin Emulsion for the Face)
(image from Amatokin)

Amatokin has managed to create global hype. It claims to “activate the potential of our inherent, adult stem-cell reservoirs in skin to help rejuvenate the skin”. When it was launched in the UK earlier this year (only in one department store, Harvey Nichols London), it was sold out and there used to be a waiting list. When I was offered to review this product, I was intrigued.

The supposed key ingredient in Amatokin is polypeptide 153, which is a synthetic peptide and is the only ingredient in this product that has any remote potential to work at a cellular level. (Most of the other ingredients are emollients, PH balancers, and preservatives. The product is fragrance-free.)

The peptide entry on Paula Begoun’s Ingredient Dictionary is a must-read. It gives a definition of what peptides are as well as their potential and limitation in skincare products. (In summary, peptide is a chain of amino acids, which constitute proteins. The problem with peptides in skincare products is that they are hydrophilic (water-loving) and are unstable.)

Under cell-communicating ingredients, peptides are listed as “possible” cell-communicating ingredients (reflected by the extremely early stage of research in this area). Theoretically, a synthetic peptide with a fatty acid attached might help the peptide perform at the right level in the skin. But much more research is needed on this.

Simply as a moisturizer, Amatokin is a fair one. It doesn’t irritate my skin but I would like something more moisturizing. It leaves my skin smooth, thanks to the abundant silica. It is possible that this product can temporarily reduce the appearance of mild wrinkles. But so can foundation primers.

Overall, Amatokin is a satisfactory, but not outstanding, moisturizer that has an ingredient that, with some further improvement of the internal structure, might have potential to be a cell-communicating ingredient.

Other ingredients, like niacinamide (a vitamin B3 comlex) and retinol (vitamin A) (Amatokin has neither), among others, have been shown to perform more effectively at a cellular level (with the right amount and in the right formulation). So, I can’t see the reason for paying 173 USD in the US (and 137 pounds (about 274 USD) in the UK) for this. Several products from Olay have niacinamide while many more (from other brands) include retinol. Chances are that these products will have more potential in improving the condition of your skin.

Related posts:

The Best 10 Minutes You Could Ever Spend
(…to help yourself choose the best moisturizer)

Olay Multi-Radiance Daily Illuminating UV Fluid SPF 15
(This budget-friendly goodie has niacinamide.)

(I would like to thank one of my very best friends, Grace, who is currently conducting research in genetic science, for making sure that I have sufficient basic background information and knowledge for this review.)

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(Zensation Healing and Soothing Mask)
(photo from: Zensation Beaut
é)


I don’t use facial masks regularly, but I always keep a moisturizing mask in the bathroom whenever I need an SOS treatment. (My current choice is Avène’s Soothing Moisture Mask.)

Zensation‘s Healing and Soothing Mask, by the sound of the name, seems to be something perfect for sensitive skin. But, as the packaging states, it is a deep cleansing mask designed for oily and blemish-prone skin.

The ingredients include tea tree oil, witch hazel distillate, myrrh extract, and neem extract, which are common ingredients in products for blemished skin due to the anti-bacterial properties. But they can be skin irritants as well.

I have Type 4 (oily-dry) skin, not prone to blemishes. I tried this mask twice (with a week apart) and it left my skin slightly dry and tight both times. I can see this might work for teenagers with oily and blemished skin who live in hot and humid climate. (It may heal blemishes and soothe oil secretion, so it is not “healing and soothing” in the usual sense.) But for all others, it may not heal or soothe the skin in any way…

(Zensation Brightening Mask)
(photo from: Zensation Beaut
é)

Zensation’s Brightening Mask works better for me, as a moisturizing mask. It includes sweet almond oil, which is a good natural moisturizing ingredient. The product’s claim of “preventing and reducing unwanted and excessive pigmentation” comes from mulberry extract, which may have the merit in preventing melanin production.

Regardless of whether it can achieve any visible result of reducing skin pigmentation, I find it to be a fairly good moisturizing mask which suits my sensitive skin. It will be a nice addition to my bathroom line-up, as summer has come to an (early) end in the UK…

More skincare posts:

Olay Multi-Radiance Daily Illuminating UV Fluid SPF 15

Estee Lauder DayWear Plus SPF 15

(my two favorite daytime moisturizers)

A New Way to Look at Skin Types

(which might be different from what beauty salespeople try to tell you…)

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(pictured: Kirkland Signature by Borghese
Skincare Travel Kit)


I always like skincare travel kits. They provide a great chance to sample several products at the same time without breaking the bank.

Borghese Skincare Travel Kit ($24.99 USD) is part of the Kirkland Signature range available in Costco stores. It includes:

75ml Pure Moisturizing Cleanser
85g Age-Defying Skin Renewal Mask (limited edition, only available within the kit)
50ml Age-Defying Protective Moisture Lotion SPF 15
15ml Age-Defying Wrinkle Defense Serum
2ml Age-Defying Restorative Night Cream
1ml Age-Defying Protective Eye Cream
See-through toiletry pouch

My favorite is the Wrinkle Defense Serum (called Skin Perfecting Serum in Asia), which includes grape seed extract (an antioxidant). It has a pleasantly smooth and light texture. Also, I find that this silicone-based serum works as a primer for me. (It slightly reminds me of Smashbox Photo Finish Foundation Primer.) Applied right before the foundation, it makes the foundation go on more evenly.

I also enjoy using the Skin Renewal Mask. It has a luxurious butter-like texture and leaves the skin smooth and hydrated.

The Protective Moisture Lotion SPF 15 has a nice creamy texture and will suit people with dry skin. However, it lacks ingredients to offer proper anti-UVA protection, which makes it less than ideal for daytime use on its own. It needs to be paired with a moisturizer/sunscreen lotion with anti-UVA ingredients. (See “Sunscreen Basics” for a list of anti-UVA ingredients.)

(It contains oxybenzone, which only protects some but not all UVA rays. See oxybenzone on Paula Begoun’s Ingredient Dictionary.)

Overall, it is a good starter kit for sampling all of the skincare items from the Kirkland Signature by Borghese range, plus the face mask. Maybe you will find a new staple in it.

Note: The travel kit is only available in Costco stores in the US. Full-size products (apart from the limited-edition Skin Renewal Mask) are available globally.

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I have written in my post about my daily skincare routine that Estee Lauder’s DayWear Plus for Oily Skin is the daytime moisturizer that I use. I have been using it for years and I have never thought about changing it.

But recently I have discovered Olay Complete Care Multi-Radiance Daily Illuminating UV Fluid for Combination and Oily Skin (SPF 15). For me, it is one of the very few daytime moisturizers that are as good as DayWear Plus.

It has a slightly thicker consistency than DayWear Plus, but it spreads easily and absorbs well. It dries up to a semi-matte finish. Thanks to mica, it does impart a subtle glow, but it does not look shiny or greasy. It is also a good base for makeup. Most importantly, it does not irritate my sensitive skin and my skin feels properly moisturized.

It is about 14 US dollars (for 75ml) in the UK, so it is a great cheaper alternative for me. (DayWear Plus (50ml) is about 56 US dollars here, whereas it is 38 US dollars in America!)

It contains titanium dioxide and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane as the anti-UVA ingredients. (Please check out my post on sunscreen basics to see why we need ingredients like these in a daytime moisturizer.)

There are a few drawbacks of this product. It contains benzyl alcohol and citrus nobilis (mandarin extract), which can be skin irritants. Benzyl alcohol is not among the major ingredients while citrus nobilis is a bit higher up on the ingredient list. But I have not had negative reactions to the product. Also, the packaging is not totally opaque. Skin-benefiting ingredients that are light-sensitive can lose their effect overtime in this kind of packaging. Maybe Olay should consider rectifying this.

By the way, I know that Olay carries different products in different countries (or it may package and name products differently), and I can’t find this particular product on the Olay US website. Maybe someone can let me know more about this.

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(pictured: Watersall’s Splash Cool)

If you are someone that carries a water spray everywhere you go, then you might be interested in the purified water atomizer by Watersall.

The mist is exceptionally fine, which gives a nice and relaxing sensation.

But do remember not to spray it and just let it dry. Your skin will become even dryer. Pat the skin dry and apply a body lotion to seal in the moisture.

For me, I find it particularly useful for changing or modifying my hairstyle. The mist is fine, light, and even, so it moists the hair without weighing it down, making it easy to re-style. I know a normal water pump-spray can basically do the trick, but this is several notches better…

I am sure you can probably find another (very idiosyncratic) way it can work for you…

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I received some samples of Skin MD Natural Shielding Lotion some time ago and have been using it for several weeks.

It is billed as a “shielding lotion”, which, according to their website, keeps moisture-robbing irritants away from the skin while the proprietary ‘super’ humectants hydrate the skin throughout the day“. It can be used for face, hand, and body.

It is very light and non-greasy, and it absorbs well. Also, it doesn’t irritate my sensitive skin, which is great. (It doesn’t have alcohol, which is a huge plus for me.) Occasionally, when the weather was really cold, its texture and consistency was not rich enough and I would still put on a thin layer of my usual moisturizer.

So currently, when the weather can still get chilly (when the drying indoor heating is still needed), I use it as a serum before my usual moisturizer. I find that the product works the best for me like this in this time of year. I look forward to using it alone in summer and see how it goes.

As a hand lotion, it has been working nicely. It dries up to a satiny finish while keeping my hands moisturized. It is particularly great for daytime (no greasy fingers), while I would go for something slightly richer and more emollient right before bed.

If you have dry and sensitive skin and want to bring a bit of an enforcement to your existing skincare routine, I think this product is well worth some consideration.

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It is perhaps one of the best lip products I have ever used.

Back in 2004, I remember I was running out of lip balm towards the end of summer and I bought the Rose Petal Salve, Rose & Co. Apothecary‘s signature product, after reading about the Yorkshire-based shop’s launch in London’s Harvey Nichols.

At first, I was drawn to its elegant packaging and the very affordable price. (It wasn’t packaged like this then but it was equally nice.) After using it for a couple of nights, I realized I bought something really great.

It is very moisturizing but it doesn’t feel greasy or heavy. The lips look nicely moist and not oily. It also needs very little re-applying. The light rose scent smells divine but is never over-powering (I dislike lip products with any strong scent.)

It’s 5 pounds (about 10 US dollars) for 20 grams (the equivalent of around 5 stick lip balms). My previous one lasted about two years. Fantastic value!

It is also supposed to be multi-functional (as an eyebrow tamer and a cuticle cream), but I usually just use it as a lip balm and I only use it in the evening, as it doesn’t contain sunscreen.

Rose & Co. Apothecary products are available in the UK and Hong Kong.

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(pictured: my SUQQU lipstick,
samples, and catalogue)

As requested by a reader, I decided to write a post about some individual SUQQU products after I had a more thorough look and got several samples earlier this month.

What really impresses me is the texture of their makeup. The lipsticks are so creamy, and the eyeshadows and blushers are so luxuriously silky that they almost seem creamy as well.

I am particularly keen on Powdery Cheeks in #11 (Ashibi), which is such a universally flattering color for most medium and light skin-tones.

One of their best-sellers is the Stick Concealer. The white one is used first as a base. Blending only comes after one of the two beige ones is layered on top of it. The white concealer is light-reflective and enhances the coverage of the beige concealer.

Here are some thoughts about what I have actually used:

1.Creamy Lip Stick in #22 (Benikoji)

I bought this in my first visit. It is a nice beige pink (even though it looks quite red in the photo). Pigmented and creamy, it is a great color for this season’s polished (and non-glossy) nude look.

2. Cream Foundation

I got a sample of this. Out of all their foundation formulations, this one provides the most coverage. It is not too difficult to blend (with my fingers) and it covers my pores fairly well. The staying power isn’t too bad. It has a dewy finish, which I don’t really like since I have quite oily skin. But I can use a matte loose powder to set the foundation, so that doesn’t bother me too much. (The color I got (#03) is slightly too pale and ashy for my medium skin-tone.)

3. Liquid Foundation Natural

I also got a sample of this. It provides more coverage than Liquid Foundation Skinny (light coverage) and Liquid Foundation Lucent (sheer coverage). It is one of the most easily blendable foundations I have ever tried. But the drawback is the staying power, which is not as good as the Creamy Foundation. The coverage is light to medium, and I would prefer more. Overall, I much prefer the Creamy Foundation.

I got this one in #04. Even though #04 should be the immediate darker shade than #03 for all their foundations, it is actually slightly too dark for me (while #03 is slightly too pale). Maybe the secret lies in #03B, which is between the two shades?

4. HA Complex Cream

Sample again. (The actual product costs about 240 USD for 30g…) I actually don’t like it that much simply because I am quite certain it has alcohol. Even though I couldn’t smell it, my skin turned a bit red about 10 minutes after application, which is typical with any moisturizer with any amount of alcohol. (I will probably have my neck enjoy this very expensive moisturizer…)

I have also got samples of HA Complex Lotion, HA Complex Emulsion, and Make Up Base. But I can really smell alcohol in all these (which is unfortunately so common with a lot of Japanese skincare products). I don’t think my face can handle any of these…

All skincare products have their signature orchid fragrance. It does smell gorgeous, even though it is much better for skincare products to be fragrance-free. In Japan last Christmas, SUQQU had a limited-edition perfume based on this orchid note. I am really hoping it will be re-released as part of the permanent collection!

One skincare product I am actually quite keen on is the Lip Essence Cream. It is very emollient and creamy. Too bad it is so pricey (about 60 USD)!

I personally think SUQQU is stronger in makeup than in skincare. But it is only because my skin can’t really tolerate alcohol and any massaging (the Musculate Massage Cream, which is used daily, is the heart of their skincare regime) and because I do think their color makeup range is simply sublime.

I look forward to seeing their spring 2007 collection. It looks great on the website and I love a makeup collection with a strong theme. I’ll definitely review it after I see it in store.

————-
Edited, on February 25, 2007, as requested by reader:

Price list of reviewed products in UK
(from SUQQU catalogue)

Creamy Lip Stick: £24
Powdery Cheeks: £22
Stick Concealer: £20
Cream Foundation: £60
Liquid Foundation Natural: £40
Liquid Foundation Skinny: £40
Liquid Foundation Lucent: £30
Make Up Base: £24
HA Complex Lotion: £45
HA Complex Emulsion: £70
HA Complex Cream: £120
Lip Essence Cream: £30
Musculate Massage Cream: £60

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