skincare – moisturizing/others

Skincare Review: Själ Mineral Källa & Kura Intuitif

by PJ on Friday, February 20, 2009

in skincare, skincare - cleansing/toning, skincare - moisturizing/others

(images from www.sjalskincare.com)

Själ is a high-end skincare line featuring a concise range of products, with a cleanser, toner, a serum, two facial moisturizers, and an eye cream. (“Själ” is a Swedish word meaning soul.) Today I am reviewing the Mineral Källa Energy Tonic and Kura Intuitif Cellular Repair Cream from the range.

– Mineral Källa Energy Tonic (above)

Currently the only toner from Själ, Mineral Källa comes with a spray dispenser. Some of the key ingredients are rice bran extract and ginseng extract.

The product contains benzyl alcohol. When it is towards the top of the ingredient list, it can irritate the skin. But, as it is second to last on the ingredient list of this product, it is very unlikely to cause skin irritation.

Overall the toner sinks in fairly easily, but, compared with one of my favorite toners, Lancôme’s Tonique Doucer, I feel that Mineral Källa is slightly less calming.

The product does not contain parabens.

– Kura Intuitif Cellular Repair Cream

It is the more emollient one of the two facial moisturizers from Själ. Some of the moisturizing agents are squalane, borage seed oil, glycerin, grape seed oil, and a small amount of shea butter and mango butter. It is alcohol free.

Even though the product is targeted at those with dry or very dry skin, the texture is not overly dense or balmy.

One thing worth noting is that both products contain a small amount of gold and silver. Even though it is one of Själ’s main selling points, there are some potential issues with these ingredients. Gold could be a skin irritant and there is no research showing that it has benefits when applied topically on the skin. Also, while silver does have disinfecting properties, it should not stay on the skin for a prolonged period of time. (Information from Paula Begoun.)

I think the two products would have been better formulated had these two ingredients been left out. The Energy Tonic would have suited most skin types and the Cellular Repair Cream, with its soft and smooth texture, would have suited those with normal or dry skin.

Redefining Skin Types

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Can’t Live Without: Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream

by PJ on Thursday, February 5, 2009

in _Can't Live Without, -Elizabeth Arden, bodycare, bodycare - handcare, skincare, skincare - moisturizing/others, stash focus

(This is an update of a previous post, after which I launched the “Can’t Live Without” series.)

Some of you might have read about the heavy snowfall in the UK this week. (It is the heaviest in the last two decades.) With the low temperatures and the drying indoor heating (and all the contact with water from washing my hands), my nail cuticles can be very dry and sometimes even a little sore.

Two years ago I got a 5ml sample of Elizabeth Arden’s Eight Hour Cream at the counter. I tried it on my cuticles and it worked very well (even better than the L’Occitane Nail & Cuticle Cream I had been using). Later on, a friend of mine was traveling to the US and asked me if I would like her to pick up something. Knowing that it was much cheaper in the US (16 USD in the US and 19 GBP here at the time), I asked her to buy it for me. Even though I do use other items occasionally, I always come back to this when I need some serious moisture.

As most of you know, it is a dense semi-transparent orange-colored gel-cream. (I have tried using it as a lip balm. It works fine, but the smell is a little overpowering.) It contains moisturizing agents like petrolatum, mineral oil, castor seed oil, and corn oil. (I like the fact that it does not contain fragrant plant oils, such as lemon oil or orange peel oil, as they can irritate the skin.)

I am suspecting that one of the reasons that it works well to soothe sore cuticles is that it contains salicylic acid, which is an anti-irritant. (Apart from salicylic acid, petrolatum is also known to have anti-inflammatory properties.)

Because of the dense texture, I only use it before bedtime, on top of my Garnier hand cream. (I don’t feel that I need to use it more often than this.) Out of all the products I have used on my cuticles, I think this one works the best to keep them moisturized and protected.

The Eight Hour Cream can work as a multi-purposed product, but, I think, even if I just use it as a cuticle cream, it is worth the purchase (well…if I can get it from the US…). Plus, a 50ml tube will last a very long time…

My Beauty Weakness: Cute Cuticle Oils

Can’t Live Without: Dove Body Silk

Can’t Live Without: Starbucks Napkins

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Skincare Review: SUQQU Lip Essence Cream

by PJ on Thursday, January 29, 2009

in -SUQQU, all about Japanese cosmetics, skincare, skincare - moisturizing/others

In winter, my lips and hands are constantly dry and I have to moisturize them every now and then throughout the day. For lips (especially in the evening), I usually prefer something quite emollient, and SUQQU‘s Lip Essence Cream is a product that does the job.

Lip Essence Cream comes in a glass jar with a plastic lid. I quite like this design, as I am not particularly fond of lip balm in a metal container, which can rust. (With my Rose & Co. Apothecary Rose Petal Salve, I usually fill a small plastic container with it and use it from there.)

It has a solid balm consistency. Some of the main moisturizing ingredients include various fatty acids, polybutene (from mineral oil), petrolatum, squalane, and vitamin E. It is quite a simply (in a good way) formulated lip product that doesn’t contain fragrance or parabens.

SInce the consistency is very dense, it does not really glide on the lips when I apply it with my finger. I think the best way to apply the product is to very gently press it onto the lips. A little goes a long way.

Compared with Rose Petal Salve, which leaves a soft sheen, Lip Essence Cream leaves a glossy shine. Some might think it can feel a little sticky, but, as the SUQQU website (link above) suggests, it is a night treatment product. (Also, it doesn’t have any sunscreen ingredient so I don’t suggest using it during daytime.) I usually use it right before going to bed, and my lips still feel moisturized when I get up the next day.

If you have really dry lips and need a very emollient lip moisturizer, or if you are looking for a fragrance-free lip moisturizer, this is certainly a product to consider.

SUQQU Spring 2009 Collection

Review: SUQQU Fall 2008 Collection Part 1 & Part 2

Beauty City Guide (3) – London

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Product Review: Nude Skincare

by PJ on Tuesday, December 30, 2008

in skincare, skincare - cleansing/toning, skincare - moisturizing/others

(Nude Skincare Cleansing Facial Oil)
(images from sephora.com)

Nude Skincare is a UK-based beauty brand that has generated buzz in the UK and the US. In the UK, their products are sold in high-end department stores like Harvey Nichols and beauty boutiques such as Space NK. Today I am reviewing three of their products.

– Cleansing Facial Oil

This product works in the same way as a standard cleansing oil. I tend to prefer cleansing oils to other types of cleansers because they are efficient to use. (They take off all the makeup at once and there is less rubbing and massaging involved compared with using a cleansing cream or gel.)

For me, a good cleansing oil has to emulsify well and leaves as little filmy residue as possible. Unfortunately, this cleansing oil does not fare well in this aspect. It is not easy to manoeuvre on the skin due to its thick texture and it doesn’t emulsify well enough. The skin is left rather greasy, and even using a face wash immediately afterwards still leaves the skin filmy. Overall, this is not among the better cleansing oils that I have used.

– Advanced Smoothing Complex

This is a serum-type product that is applied between a toner and a moisturizer. It has a watery-gel texture that has a good slip. Upon application, it can seem difficult to absorb, but, after some gentle pressing and patting, it sinks in quite thoroughly. It is a decent (and alcohol-free) serum to be paired with your usual moisturizer to help your skin cope with the colder months.

It is well-packaged in an air-tight opaque bottle, which is probably the best way to package a skincare product in terms of preserving the benefits of some ingredients.

– Replenishing Night Oil

It is a similar type of oil-based product to those such as DHC’s Olive Virgin Oil and the Rodial Glamotox Night that I reviewed earlier. It contains apricot kernel oil, jojoba seed oil, raspberry seed oil and cranberry seed oil. (The latter two have antioxidant properties.)

Because of its occlusive quality, it is more suitable for those with dry or very dry skin. Like Rodial Glamotox Night, it can be used as a good cuticle moisturizer or a moisture booster for any part of the body prone to severe dryness. (It is packaged in the same air-tight opaque bottle as the Advanced Smoothing Complex.)

(According to the Nude Skincare website, their products are free from parabens, mineral oils, silicones, and propylene glycol. Though this is useful information to know if you can develop adverse reaction to one or more of these ingredients, I personally do not have outright concerns over them. (Even though mineral oil in moisturizers can be too occlusive for some skin types, it is not a harmful ingredient.) Please refer to the articles/entries on parabens, mineral oil, silicone and propylene glycol on Paula Begoun‘s website.)

(Full product ingredient lists can also be found on Nude Skincare’s website.)

Skincare Review: ESPA 24 Hour Moisturising Complex

by PJ on Sunday, December 21, 2008

in skincare, skincare - moisturizing/others

(image from www.espaonline.com)

ESPA is a UK-based beauty brand mainly known for high-end spas around the world. It also has a range of skincare and bodycare products, including the 24 Hour Moisturising Complex that I am talking about today.

It is cream-based alcohol-free moisturizer with a fairly light consistency. The main moisturizing ingredients are plant oils such as sweet almond seed, soybean, coconut, jojoba, evening primrose and peach kernel oils, and it also has a small amount of rose geranium and myrrh oils. All the non-fragrant plant oils are considered to be good (non-irritating) moisturizing ingredients, while fragrant ones (rose geranium and myrrh oils) can be skin irritants for some people.

I’d think this moisturizer would suit people with normal to slightly dry skin and those with very little excessive sebum. Even though the texture is not overly dense or creamy, the blend of plant oils can be too occlusive and can leave a slightly filmy feel for those with combination or oily skin.

It has no sunscreen ingredients, so for me this is strictly a night-time moisturizer. It should be paired with a sunscreen product for daytime use.

Crème de la Mer Skincare Review

RoC Hydra+ Bio Active Moisturizing Cream SPF 15

Olay Complete Care Night Enriched Cream

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Skincare Review: RoC Hydra+ Bio Active Anti-Oxidant Moisturising Cream SPF15

by PJ on Friday, October 31, 2008

in -RoC, skincare, skincare - moisturizing/others

Daily sun protection should be an indispensable part of your daily skincare routine (rain or shine) and is essential for healthy and great-looking skin. But choosing a good daytime moisturizer/sunscreen with a suitable texture for any particular skin type can be tricky. Today I am looking at a product marketed for combination skin from RoC’s new Hydra+ Bio Active range.

Generally, it is a well-formulated moisturizer for daytime. It is alcohol-free and has ingredients to protect the skin from both UVA and UVB. The anti-UVA ingredient in this product is butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, and the antioxidants are copper gluconate and Tocopherol (vitamin E). But Tocopherol is towards the end of the ingredient list and is highly doubtful that it will be of any substantial help for the skin.

It goes on quite matte so it can work for people with combination skin. However, the texture itself is richer than many moisturizers marketed for the skin type. If you happen to have quite oily T-zone, it can be a little too emollient for the area. One way to work around it is to apply the moisturizer on the cheeks first and apply only the residue on your fingers onto the rest of the face.

As a base for the foundation, I think it works well. Cyclopentasiloxane (silcone) is the second ingredient on the list and the product does give a silky finish. My powder foundation goes on very smoothly. Even though, in skincare products, silicone preserves the efficacy of antioxidants much better than water, I would personally prefer slightly less silicone in my skincare products.

Overall, I would recommend this moisturizer to those with normal or normal-to-dry skin with no issue with excessive sebum. If any part of your skin tends to be oily, you might want to go for something lighter.

(The range also includes three other moisturizers, one for normal skin, one for dry skin and a body lotion.)

Olay Multi-Radiance Daily Illuminating UV Fluid

Sunscreen Basics

10 Golden Skincare Rules

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Skincare Review: Crème de la Mer

by PJ on Friday, April 25, 2008

in -Crème de la Mer, skincare, skincare - cleansing/toning, skincare - moisturizing/others

(Crème de la Mer The Cleansing Fluid)
(image from www.cremedelamer.com)

After the review of the loose powder from Crème de la Mer two weeks ago, today I am reviewing three skincare products from the brand.

Crème de la Mer The Cleansing Fluid

This is basically a cleansing oil, like those from Shu Uemura, DHC, and RMK. However, I would like it more if it were simply a cleansing oil and nothing else.

This cleansing oil contains tourmaline, pearl powder, mica, and titanium dioxide, which act as mild exfoliants in this product. If you like constant exfoliation done mildly on a regular basis and want to save time, perhaps this two-in-one product, which cleanses relatively effectively, might be worth considering. (On a minor note, the texture is slightly on the thick side, somewhere close to DHC’s Deep Cleansing Oil.)

However, for me, I am not sure I would exfoliate my face when there is still makeup on. Also, after using this for the third time during one week, my face was a little red after rising off the cleansing oil. If you have sensitive skin that doesn’t handle regular exfoliation well, then this cleansing oil might not be for you.

(Crème de la Mer The Refining Facial)
(image from www.cremedelamer.com)

Crème de la Mer The Refining Facial

This exfoliator has a dense and creamy texture. The physical exfoliating particles are fine enough not to irritate my skin. (I use extremely gentle large circular motions.)

The creamy texture is mainly down to kaolin, which is often used in deep-cleansing masks for its absorbent properties. After using it, if you find your complexion suddenly becomes much and almost unnaturally brighter, it is not because tourmaline and diamond powder have buffed off the dead skin cells. It is because you haven’t rinsed off the kaolin properly.

The white cast looks like the kind from a high-SPF sunscreen product (with physical sunscreen ingredients). I find that it is not easy to rinse it off completely, and extra care needs to be taken to make sure that it is fully removed. (I use a wet cotton pad for extra help.) I certainly don’t want clay on my skin before applying other skincare products.

Overall, I find this exfoliator satisfactory but not outstanding. Also, please note that it contains spearmint and lime extracts, which can be skin irritants.

(Crème de la Mer The Moisturizing Lotion)
(image from www.cremedelamer.com)

Crème de la Mer The Moisturizing Lotion

This is essentially a lighter version of the original Crème de la Mer Moisturizing Cream. The texture is definitely lighter, and it goes on and spreads more easily.

But this is still a very occlusive moisturizer, with petrolatum (vaseline) and shea butter high on the ingredient list. Even though it is lighter than the original cream and absorbs slightly better, it is still not suitable for people with normal-to-oily and oily skin. People with dry skin would probably find it more pleasant to use.

This product contains a small amount of niacin (niacinamide), which is vitamin B3 and has shown to increase ceramide and fatty acid levels in the skin. (Please check out the link to see niacinamide’s entry on Paula Begoun’s ingredient dictionary.) However, niacin is far down on the ingredient list and it is after lime extract, which can be a skin irritant.

(If you are interested in what niacinamide can do for your skin, several products from Olay contain niacinamide as one of the major ingredients, including Multi-Radiance Daily Illuminating UV Fluid and Complete Care Night Enriched Cream.)

10 Golden Skincare Rule

A Touch of Blusher’s Anti-Aging Series

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Skincare Review: Rodial Glamotox SPF 18 & Glamotox Night

by PJ on Friday, April 18, 2008

in skincare, skincare - moisturizing/others

(Rodial Glamotox SPF 18)
(image from www.rodial.co.uk)

Rodial is a British skincare and bodycare line sold in the UK in department stores such as Harrods, Harvey Nichols, Selfridges, and Fenwick. In the US, it is sold in Henri Bendel, Space NK, and other boutiques. Below I review two of Rodial’s moisturizers.

Rodial Glamotox SPF 18

Apart from the SPF, this moisturizer uses butyl methoxybenzoylmethane to protect the skin from harmful UVA rays. In terms of sun protection, this is an ideal daytime moisturizer to be used alone after cleansing and before makeup.

It has a rich lotion consistency but it is easy to apply. The skin feels very conditioned and moisturized.

It absorbs relatively well, although it does leave some visible shine. But it shouldn’t be a concern if you are a regular foundation wearer, and the product grabs (powder) foundation very well.

This is a suitable daytime moisturizer for people with dry or very dry skin. For me, it is a competent moisturizer for colder days in winter to help my powder foundation stay longer.

(Rodial Glamotox Night)
(image from www.rodial.co.uk)

Rodial Glamotox Night

This nighttime moisturizer comes in the form of clear oil, thanks to a variety of plant oils such as sesame seed oil, green tea seed oil, wheat germ oil, rose hip oil, soybean oil, apricot kernel oil, and sunflower seed oil. They are all considered to be good and non-irritating moisturizing agents. Green tea seed oil and rose hip oil also have anti-oxidant properties.

If you are familiar with DHC’s Olive Virgin Oil, Glamotox Night has a very similar oily texture. Because the majority of the ingredients are oils, this moisturizer has a very occlusive quality and is not ideal for people with oily skin. Just like DHC’s Olive Virgin Oil, this is best applied at the end of your nighttime skincare routine to seal in the moisture (if you happen to need something occlusive like this).

I see this as a multi-purposed product. Apart from being used on the face (for people with very dry skin), it can be used as a cuticle oil or added to a hand cream to boost up the level of emolliency. It can also moisturize very dry areas like elbows and knees.

Common traits of Rodial Glamotox SPF 18 and Glamotox Night:

– Both feature ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, a kind of Vitamin C ester, as an anti-oxidant.

– Both use orange flower oil, rosa damascena oil, and grapefruit peel oil as fragrances. Even though they are towards the end of the ingredient list, they might still be potentially irritating for some people.

– Both are paraben-free but do contain other preservatives.

Some of my skincare favorites:

RMK Cleansing Oil N

Rose & Co. Apothecary Rose Petal Salve

Olay Complete Care Night Enriched Cream

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Skincare Review: Marie Chantal Rose Signature Line

by PJ on Friday, March 21, 2008

in skincare, skincare - cleansing/toning, skincare - moisturizing/others

(Marie Chantal Rose Lotion)

Marie Chantal is a line of essential oils and handmade skincare products. From the ingredient lists of the two items I am reviewing below, it is easy to see how they differ from many items sold in drugstores and department stores.

The two moisturizers in the Rose Signature range, Rose Lotion and Rose Cream, have very simple ingredient lists which do not feature a staggering number of ingredients. (You can check the Marie Chantal website for product ingredient lists.) Generally, for people with sensitive skin, the fewer the ingredients in a skincare product, the better. The fact that they are alcohol-free is also a huge plus for people with sensitive or very dry skin.

(Marie Chantal Rose Cream)

They are also free from parabens and other preservatives, and, according to the website, contain many organic ingredients.

The Rose Lotion has a rich lotion consistency, while the Rose Cream has a very rich texture. Both spread easily and have a gorgeous rose scent.

However, for me personally, even though they absorb relatively well, they didn’t quench my face effectively enough. I suspect that the reason is that both of them have plenty of occlusive moisturizing ingredients like shea butter and rosehip seed oil (which seal in the moisture) while the humectant moisturizing ingredient, glycerin (which can absorb moisture from the air), is further down the list. In many cases, such moisturizers leave my skin supple to the touch but I can feel the dryness and tightness underneath. (There is not enough moisture for the occlusive ingredients to seal in, even after I cleanse and tone my face.)

The kinds of moisturizers that suit me better have a little more humecants than occlusives. (I have oily-dry skin.) Whenever I come across a predominantly occlusive moisturizer, I use it as what I call a “top-up” moisturizer. It means I use it very sparingly on top of my usual moisturizer when the weather is particularly cold and dry and only on the cheeks where more emollients are needed. These two moisturizers work better for me this way, and the fact that they have very simple ingredient lists means I am not loading too many extra ingredients onto my sensitive skin.

Overall, the Rose Lotion and Rose Cream by Marie Chantal have many objective assets, but, just like any other moisturizer, the combination of various types of moisturizing ingredients might not suit all people.

(If you are wondering what ingredients are classified as occlusives/humectants, one article worth checking out is 15 Minute Beauty Fanatic’s post on moisturizer basics.)

Lancôme Tonique Douceur
(my favorite toner at the moment)

Olay Complete Care Night Enriched Cream
(light but very moisturizing)

10 Golden Skincare Rules
(Let’s all try to stick to them.)

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Product Review – Zensation Bio Regenerating Serum

by PJ on Saturday, March 8, 2008

in skincare, skincare - moisturizing/others

(Zensation Bio Regenerating Serum)
(image from Zensation Skincare)

Zensation Bio Regenerating Serum with Liposomes & Matrixyl® is a light-weight serum that is absorbed relatively well. Whether it has sufficient anti-aging efficacy is another matter.

There are some notable pluses and minuses. It is alcohol-free, which is always ideal. (It is surprising that many serum-type products that claim to be ultra-moisturizing have alcohol, which does the exact opposite from moisturizing the skin.) Also, if parabens are your concern, then this paraben-free serum might be worth considering.

It contains a very small amount of echinacea (coneflower) extract, which can have soothing properties.

However, it contains rose flower oil and pineapple extract, both of which can be skin irritants.

The trademarked ingredient, Matrixyl®, is Palmitoyl Pentapeptide 3. (It is listed as Palmitoyl Pentapeptide 4 on the packaging, but both go by the same trade name.) There is non-independent research showing it performs better than retinol and vitamin C. Even if this happens to be the case, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide 4 is listed as the last ingredient on the list and it is extremely unlikely to have any benefit for the skin.

Overall, I’d position this as a moisturizing serum, not an anti-aging item. Without the ingredients that could pose as potential irritants for some people, this product would be even more ideal for those who need additional moisture in their skincare routine.

Related Posts:
(some of the items I use for nighttime skincare)

RMK Cleansing Oil N

Lancôme Tonique Douceur

Olay Complete Care Night Enriched Cream

Related Sites:

Paula Begoun’s Ingredient Dictionary