Makeup, Skincare, Fragrance and a Bit of Fashion
Kanebo’s Sensai line is one of the lines from the brand that have a more international presence. Today I am featuring two facial masks from the line’s Cellular Performance skincare range, Cellular Performance Hydrachange Mask and Cellular Performance Mask.
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(Bakel Jaluronic Instant Replenishment)
With skincare products, the first thing I look at is the ingredient list. With Jaluronic Instant Replenishment and Q10-B5 Cellular Revitalizer from the high-end Italian skincare line Bakel, I am surprised to see their exceptionally short ingredient lists. Bakel claims that its products contain 100% active ingredients, and there seems to be some truth in the statement.
Here are the full ingredient lists of the two products:
– Jaluronic: water, sodium hyaluronate
– Q10-B5: aloe barbadensis leaf juice, glycerin, panthenol, ubiquinone
As you can see, neither of these two products contains alcohol, mineral oil, silicones, PH balancers, colorants, parabens (or any other preservative), or fragrance. The simplicity of the products makes them potentially very suitable for those with sensitive skin.
(The air-tight and opaque bottles help preserve the products to a certain extent. It is suggested that the products be used up in 6 months.)
The moisturizing ingredient in Jaluronic Instant Replenishment is sodium hyaluronate (hyaluronic acid), which is a natural moisturizing factor (NMF) and a good water-binding agent. (Some beauty companies try to make hyaluronic acid sound like a miracle anti-aging ingredient, but many other water-binding agents are just as beneficial.)
I was expecting Jaluronic to be quite watery, but it turned out to have a slippery and slightly viscous watery-gel texture. It spreads very easily on the skin with a very small amount. It takes some time to absorb but it does sink into the skin in the end.
I find that I need to put on a moisturizer before (not after) the serum is completely absorbed. (Otherwise my skin can actually feel quite tight.) This is likely to be due to the fact that this product puts hydration into the skin but doesn’t contain ingredients to hold it. (The rough equivalent would be to apply a toner and leave it to dry (without applying a moisturizer soon enough), which can dry out the skin.)
(Bakel Q10-B5 Cellular Revitalizer)
Q10-B5 Cellular Revitalizer is slightly more viscous than Jaluronic (possibly due to the aloe leaf juice) but the texture is generally similar. (My general thoughts on Jaluronic above apply here.) Aloe barbadensis leaf juice (with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties) and glycerin act as water-binding agents in this product.
Panthenol (pantothenic acid) is vitamin B5 and ubiquinone is coenzyme Q10, hence the name of the product. According to Paula Begoun, a small amount of research suggests that pantothenic acid has hydration and wound-healing properties and some research shows that coenzyme Q10 has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
Some serums can be used as lightweight moisturizers for oilier skin types (if they contain sufficient emollients to help seal in the hydration), but I wouldn’t suggest these two products to be used as moisturizers due to their lack of occlusion.
Overall I like Bakel’s minimalist approach to formulating these two products. Both of them should suit most skin types, including dry and sensitive skin. They are intended to be used as serums, but I think they can also be used as toners. Between the two, I prefer the texture of Jaluronic, but Q10-B5 obviously has more skin-benefiting ingredients.
(In the UK, Bakel is available in Space NK and Harvey Nichols (in London, Manchester, and Leeds).)
(The products featured in this article are provided by Bakel.)
Related posts (on other facial serums):
Lancôme Génifique Youth Activating Concentrate
Prevage Face Advanced Anti-Aging Serum
Elizabeth Arden Intervene Radiance Serum
RoC Retin-Ox Wrinkle Correxion Intensive Anti-Wrinkle Serum
Olay Regenerist Daily Regenerating Serum
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SUQQU is more renowned for its makeup range than for its skincare lineup, as the brand has a variety of sublime color and base makeup items. But today I am featuring one of SUQQU’s key skincare products, Musculate Massage Cream.
Those who are familiar with SUQQU might know about the brand’s signature Gankin Massage, which is claimed to help ease the tension of facial muscles, stimulate blood flow, and re-define facial contours. The massage can be administered by staff members at the SUQQU counter or at home, with the help of Musculate Massage Cream.
The massage is performed after cleansing and before toning and moisturizing. Ideally, it is performed daily both in the morning and in the evening. There are specific steps in the Gankin Massage routine, which are available on the “How to Massage” page on SUQQU’s Japanese website. (These steps are not presented on SUQQU’s global website.)
After the massage, the massage cream is wiped off with a sponge cloth, which comes with the massage cream. (The sponge cloth can be purchased separately, and so can a fiber cloth (as an alternative for the same purpose).) SUQQU also recommends using Face Refresher to remove any residue of the massage cream. As far as I can remember, it contains quite a lot of alcohol and might cause skin irritation for some people.
The massage cream has a very emollient texture. It is designed not to sink into the skin entirely so that the emolliency stays on the skin to facilitate the massage. It contains rich emollients such as mineral oil, beeswax, petrolatum, and squalane. It also contains moisturizing ingredients such as dipropylene glycol, stearic acid, cetearyl alcohol, methylserine, xylobiose, and sodium hyaluronate. (I have noticed that methylserine and xylobiose don’t seem to be commonly used in skincare products from western brands.)
Because of all the occlusive emollients in this product, it is a lot more suitable for those with dry or very dry skin and I would not recommend this product for those with oily skin. If you have combination skin, do avoid using this product on the oilier parts of your skin. (Otherwise you are simply pushing mineral oil and petrolatum into the skin which is already very sebaceous and this might create more problems than benefits.)
The Musculate Massage Cream pictured above is the limited-edition jasmine-scented Matsukasoukou version (available in the UK from January), while the original version (without the leaf details on the jar) has the brand’s signature eastern orchid scent. From June 4th, a limited-edition 300ml version (of the original (eastern orchid) version (200ml)) will be available in Japan.
(The product featured in this article is provided by SUQQU.)
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(image from Clinique)
The product has a relatively lightweight gel-cream consistency. Some of the moisturizing ingredients that this product contains are glycerin, dipropylene glycol, astrocaryum murumuru (palm) seed butter, sorbitol, trehalose, squalane, and sodium hyaluronate.
It features antioxidants such as polygonum cuspidatum (Japanese knotweed) root extract, scutellaria baicalensis (skullcap) root extract, algae extract, betula alba (birch) bark extract, linoleic acid, and tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E). Skullcap root extract and linoleic acid also have anti-inflammatory properties.
The product does not contain fragrance or parabens.
Even though the product contains a variety of antioxidants and anti-inflammatory ingredients, it is hampered by the amount of alcohol it has (third on the ingredient list). It makes the product unsuitable for most skin types.
(Another ingredient that might cause irritation is coleus barbatus (part of the mint family) extract.)Without the alcohol, the product would have the potential to be a good night-time moisturizer for those with combination or oily skin.
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(image from Avène)
Designed for sensitive skin that happens to be very dry, the cream has a thick creamy consistency. (It is among the thickest facial moisturizers that I have come across.) It spreads relatively easily and it is effective in keeping the skin nourished and hydrated.
Some of the moisturizing ingredients in this product are shea butter, cetearyl isononanote, glycerin, safflower seed oil, isododecane, arachidyl alcohol, and glyceryl stearate. (Shea butter is second on the ingredient list (after Avène Thermal Spring Water), which is probably part of the reason for the cream’s dense consistency.)
The product is free from alcohol and parabens, but it contains fragrance, which might irritate certain types of sensitive skin. (Aside from the fragrance, there doesn’t seem to be any obvious skin irritant.)
This is potentially a very good moisturizer for those with dry or very dry skin. On the other hand, it would be far too rich and emollient for those with combination or oily skin.
(The product featured in this article is provided by Avène.)
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(image from Liz Earle)
Superbalm is marketed as an emergency moisturizer that can be used anywhere, particularly on the lips, nails and cuticles, and elbows. The product has a solid balm consistency. However, occasionally, I have come across testers in department stores with a thick oily-cream consistency. This could possibly be due to the warm shelf lighting.
Some of the product’s main moisturizing ingredients are hazelnut oil, shea butter, rosehip seed oil, beeswax, avocado oil, neroli oil, lavender oil, and camomile oil. Rosehip oil has antioxidant properties, but neroli oil and lavender oil can be skin irritants for some people.
The product doesn’t appeal to me as a lip balm. Even though I don’t dislike the scent of the product, it is too strong for me on the lips. Also, I don’t find it as soothing as some of the other lip products I have used. But it works relatively well for me as a nail and cuticle moisturizer, as it is moisturizing without being greasy.
The product does not contain parabens.
If you are interested in trying the product, I would suggest making sure you like its herbal-medicinal scent (which does linger particularly if you use it as a lip balm) and making sure you are not sensitive to any of the fragrant essential oils in this product.
(The product featured in this article is provided by Liz Earle.)
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(still my favorite lip balm)
Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream
(great for nails and cuticles)
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(image from Elizabeth Arden)
According to Allergan and Elizabeth Arden, the star ingredient of the serum (and of the whole Prevage line) is the antioxidant Idebenone (listed as
hydroxydecyl ubiquinoyl dipalmitoyl glycerate in the ingredient list). Also, according to Elizabeth Arden, it is superior to some other antioxidants such as vitamin C, vitamin E, and coenzyme Q10 and is the most effective antioxidant.On the other hand, according to Paula Begoun’s review of Prevage Day Ultra Protection Anti-Aging Moisturizer SPF 30, idebenone is a good antioxidant but it is not the best or the most potent. (Also, see the entry on idebenone in Paula Begoun’s Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary.)
Prevage Face Advanced Anti-Aging Serum has a lightweight lotion consistency. (It does not have the kind of consistency that many skincare serums have.) It is very spreadable and it feels quite hydrating on the skin. Some of the moisturizing ingredients in this product are butylene glycol, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, caprylyl glycol, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, propylene glycol, sodium PCA, trehalose, urea, and phospholipids.Apart from Idebenone, this product also contains antioxidants such as ergothioneine and dimethylmethoxy chromanol.
The product is alcohol-free.
Overall, this is a decently formulated product with skin-benefiting ingredients. (It is up to individual consumers to decide
whether it is worth 155 USD (its retail price in the US).) If you have combination or oily skin, it can be used as a lightweight moisturizer (instead of a serum). If you have normal, dry, or very dry skin, then it can be used as a serum (underneath a moisturizer).(In the US, Prevage Face Advanced Anti-Aging Serum has replaced Prevage Anti-Aging Treatment. It will be released in the UK in April.)
(The product featured in this article is provided by Elizabeth Arden.)
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(images from Pond’s)
Pond’s Hydro-Nourishing Cream has a light-cream consistency. The consistency of the cream is probably predominantly shaped by propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate (second on the ingredient list), which, according to Paula Begoun, is an emollient with a gel texture and is used in many lightweight moisturizers.
Some of the other moisturizing ingredients in this product are
paraffinum liquidum, petrolatum, cetyl alcohol, stearic acid, glycerin, oenothera biennis oil (evening primrose oil, with anti-inflammatory properties), lecithin, and glyceryl strearate.The product also includes tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E), tocopherol (vitamin E), ascorbyl palmitate (vitamin C), and BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene), all of which are anti-oxidants.
This product does not contain alcohol. Those who are sensitive to fragrance might want to know that It contains parfum and quite a few other scenting agents. (I do find that the scent of this product is slightly on the strong side.)
Compared with Hydro-Nourishing Cream, Dry Skin Cream is more emollient. One thing I have noticed is that when it is applied on damp/moist skin (after cleansing), it appears to almost float over the skin. Then it seems to switch positions with the water, as it sticks to the skin, leaving a layer of watery moistness on top of it. I am suspecting that this is due to the hydrophobic nature of the ingredients that this product contains, such as paraffinum liquidum, petrolatum, and paraffin/synthetic wax.
Some of the other moisturizing ingredients in this product are isopropyl palmitate, glycerin, stearic acid, persea gratissima oil (avocado oil, with anti-oxidant properties), glyceryl stearate, cetyl alcohol, and lecithin. The product also includes anti-oxidants (tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E) and tocopherol (vitamin E)).
Like Hydro-Nourishing Cream, it does not contain alcohol and it contains parfum and many other scenting agents. (I personally find that the fragrance in this product is more pleasant.)
Overall, both moisturizers are decent products with skin-benefiting ingredients, although some might not enjoy the occlusive feel of Dry Skin Cream. I think Hydro-Nourishing Cream will suit those with slightly dry skin and that Dry Skin Cream will suit those with dry skin.
(I am not opposed to mineral oil or petrolatum in skincare products. Mineral oil is unlikely to cause skin irritation, and petrolatum has anti-inflammatory and healing properties. But those with oily skin should avoid these occlusive emollients in skincare products, especially when they are towards the top of the ingredient lists.)
(The products featured in this article are provided by Pond’s.)
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(images from www.korres.com)
Materia Herba Moisturising Cream for Oily to Combination Skin has a light consistency that spreads easily. Some of its ingredients that help moisturize the skin include glycerin, caprylic/capric triglyceride, cetearyl alcohol, safflower seed oil, glyceryl stearate, sunflower seed oil, and sesame seed oil.
The product does not contain mineral oil, silicones, or parabens. It contains fragrance.
One major drawback of this product is the large amount of alcohol it contains. (It is second on the ingredient list.) It makes the product potentially drying for most skin types.
Materia Herba Anti-Ageing Cream for Oily to Combination Skin has a somewhat similar formulation, but it does not contain alcohol. (The product still contains benzyl alcohol, which can be drying for some people. But it is not towards the very top of the ingredient list (8th on the ingredient list).)
Some of the moisturizing ingredients include sunflower seed oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, glycerin, jojoba seed oil, squalane, glyceryl stearate, and soybean oil.
The product has a similar consistency to that of the Moisturising Cream for Oily to Combination Skin reviewed above. Even though the product has a light texture, sunflower seed oil (an occlusive moisturizing agent) is second on the ingredient list. It also contains other occlusive moisturizing ingredients such as jojoba seed oil, squalene and soybean oil. Overall, I think the product might be too occlusive for those with oily, combination, or normal-to-oily skin.
The product does not contain mineral oil, silicones, or parabens. It contains fragrance.
(The products featured in this article are provided by Korres.)
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(image from www.clinique.co.uk)
Clinique‘s Even Better range is one of the brand’s latest ranges of skincare and foundation products. It aims to help create a clearer, brighter and more even skin tone. Today I am reviewing Even Better Skin Tone Correcting Moisturizer SPF 20.
The moisturizer has a creamy consistency that is not overly thick, and it feels quite emollient on the skin. (It is more emollient than Clinique’s Youth Surge SPF 15 that I reviewed earlier.) Some of its moisturizing ingredients include octyldodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl myristate, and butylene glycol.
It contains butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (avobenzone) as the anti-UVA ingredient. This makes it a suitable moisturizer to be used for daytime.
It features a nice array skin-benefiting ingredients, which are mostly antioxidants. They include (in the order which they are listed on the ingredient list) ascorbyl glucoside (vitamin C), betula alba (birch) bark extract, scutellaria baicalensis (skullcap) root extract, curcuma longa (turmeric) root extract, tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E), linoleic acid, and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (vitamin C). Skullcap root extract and linoleic acid also have anti-inflammatory properties.
It also contains cucumis sativus (cucumber) extract (listed right after betula alba (birch) root extract). According to Paula Begoun, the lutein component in cucumber “can have an effect on suppressing melanogenesis, or the process that leads to skin discolorations”. (Please refer to this link on Paula Begoun’s website for more information.)
There is very little silicone in this product, which might please those who are looking for moisturizers that don’t contain silicones as major ingredients.
It doesn’t contain alcohol, parabens, or fragrance. One ingredient that may be a skin-irritant is sodium sulfite. (But It is further down on the ingredient list.)
Overall, this is a competent daytime moisturizer. It would be too emollient for most people with oily skin, and it should suit those with normal-to-dry or dry skin.
(The product featured in this review is provided by Clinique.)
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Fall 2024 Makeup Trend Spotlight: New Blusher Ranges & Lavender Blushers (image from www.cosme.net)
