makeup – mascara

The New Thierry Mugler Makeup Line – A Guest Review by Lynn Chrisman

by PJ on Sunday, June 1, 2008

in -Thierry Mugler, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - primer/concealer, makeup - lip color, makeup - lip gloss, makeup - mascara

Some of you might have heard about or seen the new makeup line by Thierry Mugler. I have not seen it in person myself, and today I am excited to present a guest review by my friend Lynn, who has tried out some of the products.

Hope you will enjoy this review!

Special Report from New York—Thierry Mugler Bleu Glacis Cooling Effect Concealer, Bleu Effect Plexigloss Lip Lacker and Vinyl Gloss for Lashes

Owned by Clarins, the new Thierry Mugler cosmetic collection is called The Art of Metamorphosis: A Line of Make Up. In the United States, it is currently available at Saks Fifth Avenue in New York and online at http://boutique.thierrymugler.com. Bloomingdales is also expected to carry the line. I am going to share my impressions of the products I have been using lately: Bleu Glacis Cooling Effect Concealer, Bleu Effect Plexigloss Lip Lacker and Vinyl Gloss for Lashes. I was interested to note that the products are made in different countries. Bleu Glacis comes from Japan, the lipgloss from Italy, and the lash gloss is made in Germany.

Thierry Mugler Bleu Glacis Cooling Effect Concealer,
“Disguise with ice and light”

I became curious about this new line after reading an announcement about the line in a Fashion-Week edition of Women’s Wear Daily, but the real motivator to track it down was a paragraph in Allure about Bleu Glacis Cooling-Effect Concealer ($45 USD for 11 grams). It is unlike any concealer I have ever used—with a spongy, bouncy texture, and cooling sensation on the skin. The first time I applied it was on a nothing-on-my-face day, and it melded with my skin without creasing—almost like a waterproof product with a soft, matte finish. I find this remarkable since it is so watery and wet. When I am doing full make-up, I use Bleu Glacis on top of Clarins Perfecting Touch Primer, which is applied over Shiseido Benefiance Eye Cream. It is so effective at luminizing the undereye area that I find myself using fewer products, and it does not crease or fade for hours. Since I have some fine lines, I just redistribute if I see a little crease. Bleu Glacis comes with a thin sponge applicator, but I have been comfortable applying it with my fingers. Most days, I just brush on a bit of Bobbi Brown Eye Brightener to blend the Bleu with my complexion, but I will be trying out Teint Glacis, which is a foundation that is also a cooling-effect product. For me, Bleu Glacis is the Product of the Year—so far.

Dee, a sales associate representing the line at Saks, told me that Bleu Glacis worked beautifully for a woman with rosacea and darker skin. For her, it was more of a colour correcting layer to be followed by foundation. Dee also mentioned that Vincent Longo’s Water Canvas foundation has a similar texture, but very different properties. On my second visit to the Thierry Mugler outpost in Saks, I saw a makeup artist applying Bleu Glacis and Teint Glacis to a young woman with caramel-coloured skin, and the effect was flawless and stunning. She said “Wow!” when she saw herself, and remarked that she had not looked so well-rested in a long time.

Thierry Mugler Lip Lacker, Bleu Effect Plexigloss,
“Liquid Crystal Hologram”

Another product I purchased is Blue Effect Plexigloss Lip Lacker ($40 USD). It is very a lightweight and moisturizing gloss without any stickiness, and reminds me of liquid opals. Yes, liquid opals! How did they do that? I find myself just gazing at the beauty of the product wand sometimes and daydreaming about its inner light…chances are that it will need to be moved into another room if I want to get any work done today. The applicator is the same type of flexible spatula used in many Japanese lipglosses. I wore it alone as a test for lasting power, and it held up for about four hours on a warm day. My natural lipcolour is quite red and Bleu Effect looks like an intense translucent violet until I blend and distribute the colour to a subtle sheen. When used as a top coat over a darker colour, the effect can be intense and multidimensional. The lipgloss has a mild honey-flower fragrance, but no taste. At Saks, I saw the other two glosses from the collection—the Reflection Effects in Pink and Coral have more shimmer and a holographic quality.

Thierry Mugler Vinyl Gloss for Lashes,
“A new beauty ritual for vinyl shine”

Vinyl Gloss for Lashes ($49.00 USD) is a lightweight, very liquid formula that is meant to be painted on the lashes and layered. It provides delicate coverage with nice lengthening. I have found the liquid formula long-lasting and very black. The small brush, in my opinion, is not easy to maneuver, and needs to be wiped off very carefully to avoid drips and clumps. I think that an applicator like the MAC-Mascara-Fan brush would be amazing with this formula. (For people who may have issues with lashes sticking together, Mascara Fan beautifully separates the lashes before the mascara dries. I am a devoted MAC-Mascara-Fan fan.)

In October 2008, 7 shades of lipstick called “Rouge Unique, The ultimate pigment explosion” will be introduced. In a tiny printed swatch on a brochure I was given with my purchases, I see what seems to be a lavender-lilac shade called Fantasy. Do I hear applause, PJ? Also in October, a new mascara called “Flash on Lashes, Spectacular lash mascara” will join Vinyl Gloss for Lashes. Mousse Foundation, “The ultimate pleasure in foundation” will be introduced in December 2008. According to Jason, another Thierry Mugler sales associate, over fifty new products will be introduced to the line this Fall. As for me, I’ll be spending this summer cleaning out my cabinets to make way for those tempting new lipsticks, conjuring Glacis Powder and Liquid Opal Nail Varnish while keeping cool under a lovely Bleu Glacis veil.

Special thanks to PJ for publishing this review and encouraging lilac-shadowed blue lipgloss lovers everywhere!

Lynnderella

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YSL Mascara Volume Effet Faux Cils

by PJ on Monday, May 19, 2008

in -YSL, makeup, makeup - mascara, stash focus

(YSL Mascara Volume Effet Faux Cils in 1 High Density Black)

Two weeks ago, I wrote about Clinique’s Naturally Glossy Mascara, which is one of my favorite mascaras due to its natural subtlety. Today the mascara I am talking about is almost the polar opposite.

YSL‘s Mascara Volume Effet Faux Cils does add length, but it is mostly about volume. The heavy-duty densely creamy mascara coats lashes effectively, making them look thicker with minimal efforts. Very little layering is required to achieve a good deal of volume.

The shade in 1 High Density Black is a fairly black shade without greyishness. The intense shade adds to the dramatic effect.

(Perhaps one of the most beautifully packaged mascaras…)

What I have found is that I do have to be quite light-handed with the application. Otherwise it will clump a little. I think the best way to apply this mascara is to use soft upward strokes. The zig-zag technique, which is usually useful in building up volume, will create clumps with this mascara. Also, the mascara seems to dry fairly quickly, so a speedy application is more ideal.

Overall, I think this mascara is designed to perform efficiently with very simple, swift and soft strokes. Some initial practice does pay off in the end.

Like Clinique’s Naturally Glossy Mascara, this mascara has also been around for years, and I am not surprised. If you are after (instant) volume for your lashes, then this mascara might be worth considering.

YSL Golden Gloss
(gold for packaging, gold for lips)

YSL Gold Celebration Palette
(from Holiday 2006)

Keep It Gold – YSL
(my personal take on YSL)

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Clinique (Truly) Naturally Glossy Mascara

by PJ on Sunday, May 4, 2008

in -Clinique, makeup, makeup - mascara, stash focus

(Clinique Naturally Glossy Mascara in Jet Black)

So far, I have not been talking about mascaras very much. One reason is that I don’t really use them often and I have not tried many of them. But another reason is that Clinique‘s Naturally Glossy Mascara pretty much ended my search for a good mascara a long time ago.

If you want a false-eyelash effect from a mascara that gives dramatic volume and length, then this product will definitely disappoint you. As the name rightly suggests, the effect is natural, and that is why I like it.

In terms of application, the great thing about this mascara is that it has never clumped on my lashes (not even just a little bit). Also, the bristles are dense and evenly placed on the wand, and the mascara goes on very smoothly and evenly.

It delicately enhances the lashes by adding some length and a bit of volume. Overall, it creates a very natural “no-mascara” look. (The shade in Jet Black is very dark and doesn’t look greyish or ashy.) The effect is long-lasting as the mascara stays put all day for me, and I think it is a very good mascara for a minimal daytime look. (It is not water-proof.)

Naturally Glossy Mascara has been around for quite a long time, and deservedly so. I hope Clinique will not be thinking about discontinuing it.

If you want a mascara that adds considerable length and volume, then the mascara I will talk about later this month might appeal to you. Stay tuned!

MAMEW Mascara Kit
(cult product in the making)

You Mean That’s NOT Real?
(What do you think?)

Lash Out While Looking Your Best
(by Livia Mercer)

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Cult Product in the Making: Mamew Mascara Kit

by PJ on Thursday, February 7, 2008

in _Japanese Brand Profile, -Mamew, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup - mascara

(Mamew brand logo)
(image from www.mamew.jp)

It was estimated several years ago that there were between 3000 and 4000 cosmetics companies in Japan (from Textbook on Beauty, by Kaoru Saito). What we see in major Japanese cosmetics magazines is only a very small selection of them, and it is always interesting to see a new brand on the magazine pages.

Launched in October 2007, Mamew is a fairly new brand but it has been featured in major Japanese cosmetics magazines like Biteki and Voce as well as top fashion magazines like Vogue Nippon.

(the very minimally packaged Mamew Lineup)

(image from www.mamew.jp)

What attracted the attention of these magazines are Mamew’s Mascara Kits (two versions: Volume Curl and Long Lash).

(Mamew Mascara Kit)

(image from www.mamew.co.jp)

The mascara liquid and the brush are packaged separately, and each application involves putting the mascara onto the brush (just like putting toothpaste on a toothbrush, I suppose).

(image from www.mamew.co.jp)

You might think this is a lot of trouble, but here are the unique strengths of this product (from the Mamew website):

1. You can have more control of how much pigment goes onto the brush.

2. You can curl the lashes and keep the curl more effectively with the blush made with dense natural hair.

3. You can benefit from a fresh application every time by cleansing the brush after each use.

4. You can enjoy an easier application with the slim brush handle.

Apart from these, I think the unused mascara will probably remain moist longer. Also, this seems to be an updated version of the most traditional mascaras with a brush picking up the black pigment.

Judging by the increasing level of press interest, Mamew’s Mascara Kit has a potential to be a cult beauty item in Japan.

(Mamew is currently sold in Japan only, and the website’s on-line ordering service opens to residents in Japan.)

“Loving Japanese Brands” Series
(my sensational seven)

Lash Out! – by Laura Mercier
(featuring mascaras from Dior, YSL, and Max Factor)

You Mean That’s NOT Real?
(What do you think?)

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Bring It Back! Nina Ricci Cosmetics

by PJ on Wednesday, October 17, 2007

in _Bring It Back, makeup, makeup - lip color, makeup - lip gloss, makeup - mascara, stash focus

(Nina Ricci Cosmetics seasonal looks)

I think most of you might still remember the curvy and quirky original packaging of Nina Ricci‘s makeup and skincare items. It was fairly cute but I wasn’t particularly a fan of that. But, around 2002, the packaging went through an overhaul and personally I think it came out so much better. Using both reflective and frosty finishes, the new look was sleek and modern.

The two items I have from the revamped range were the Tender Lacquered Lipglaze in #2 Rose Jupon and Extension Lashwear in #01 (black). The Extension Lashwear mascara does a good job in separating and defining the lashes, while the lipglaze is one of the best lip glosses I have ever used thanks to the richness of the color and the syrupy and glassy finish.

(my two Nina Ricci items)

What I also like about the new Nina Ricci makeup line is that each season they released a beautiful seasonal look. Like the packaging, the seasonal looks were modern and with a slight editorial edge which varied from season to season. Each seasonal look was on a leaflet featuring the key items. The styling of the leaflets was consistent, which made it fun to collect and compare them. You can see some of the beautiful seasonal looks above.

Sadly, Nina Ricci left the UK a couple of years ago. (Now only the fragrances are sold here.) The website is functioning but the beauty section has not been updated for a long time. It makes me wonder whether they are still coming up with new items in other countries. I don’t think so, but if you have any information on Nina Ricci where you are, I’d be very interested to know!

Some other “Bring It Back!” Posts:

Inoui ID
Cynthia Rowley
Bulgari Skincare (which IS coming back!)
Helena Rubinstein
Calvin Klein Cosmetics (which has come back!!)

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You Mean That’s NOT Real?

by PJ on Sunday, July 29, 2007

in makeup, makeup - mascara, What do you think? Beauty topics and thoughts

(Helena Rubinstein Lash Queen Waterproof Mascara ad,
p. 26-27, August 2006, Biteki magazine)

We all know that beauty ads are often about visual impact. Pores are blurred, lines are erased, makeup is retouched, and hair is re-textured. Perfection is what we aspire to, and it is what they are presenting.

Last week, UK’s Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) found L’Oréal in breach of advertising rules after they admitted that, in their TV ad for Telescopic Mascara, Penelope Cruz wore false eyelashes. In their future ads, L’Oréal must include a statement in the ad if false lashes are used. Apart from this, L’Oréal will have to make it clear whether claims like “up to 60% longer lashes” refer to the appearance, not the actual length. (Read the full story in The Guardian.)

I wonder why ASA didn’t do this earlier, but I also wonder whether there is any point in doing it.

Have a look at a few more ads:

(Helena Rubinstein Surrealist Mascara ad,
p. 28-29, October 2006, Biteki magazine)

(Clinique Lash Power Mascara ad,
p. 92-93, August 2006, Biteki magazine)

(L’Oréal Volume Shocking Waterproof Mascara ad,
p. 84-85, August 2006, Biteki magazine)

(Notice that three of the four ads appear in the same issue.)

Obviously, there is a difference between stylized eyelashes above and false eyelashes that are meant to blend in with and enhance the real ones. But, in certain contexts, the difference is almost irrelevant. While I do believe in transparent advertising, I do think most of us consumers are (and should be) savvy enough to know what to take away from advertisements. Some ads are more visual than informational, and they are designed to appeal to our senses more than anything else.

Here is a spoof of the TV ad in a comedy sketch show (aired on BBC several months ago), which is very funny but makes a similar point.

One random thought: At least we can put on false eyelashes if we want to, whereas we can’t digitally enhance our image in others’ (or our) eyes……

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Featured Article: Lash Out While Looking Your Best (by Livia Mercer)

by PJ on Tuesday, May 22, 2007

in -Dior, -YSL, makeup, makeup - mascara

It is mascara galore today, as I feature an article by Livia Mercer, founder and editor of The Beauty Review, the number one on-line beauty and cosmetics magazine in Australia and New Zealand.

Trained and qualified as a beauty therapist, Livia is someone that is truly passionate about beauty. She has worked for several cosmetics companies and owned a hairdressing salon. She then founded and edits her own magazine to help consumers make informed decisions in shopping for beauty products, as she believes that more information and education about cosmetics is needed from an unbiased medium.

The thing I love the most about this magazine (apart from the free subscription) is the Product Reviews, where beauty products are reviewed by a panel of consumers each month. We get to see a good range of feedback of each product, which I think is very refreshing.

Now, reviewing some of the best mascaras around, take it away, Livia!

Mascaras are the most often purchased makeup product on the market. Considering you are supposed to replace your mascaras every three months chances are you will purchase over 250 (give or take a few) mascaras in your lifetime. Therefore cosmetic companies are desperately trying to come up with newer and better formulations to catch your eye so it is their mascara you will be buying next. I’m not complaining at all.

I love all the new textures, formulations, brushes and innovations that are being put into mascaras. It is just so hard to keep up with them all.

To help you in this regard we have bought together some of the latest and the best mascaras (according to us). If you have your own favourites, feel free to write to us and tell us why.

Christian Dior, Diorshow Blackout. Spectacular Volume Intense Black-Kohl. This mascara will give you the most powerful and intense black colour using kohl that has been used since the ancient times to intensify the eyes. It uses a derivative of Arabic gum, similar to that used to set the Egyptian hieroglyphics for eternity. This added to a Black fix complex ensures your Charcoal- like finish remains perfect throughout the day.

Max Factor Masterpiece Volume and Definition Mascara. The secret to this mascara lies in the design of the patented brush. It is made of thermo plastic, rather than nylon, so they are uniquely soft and flexible. This means they can conform to reach every last lash from root to tip. The brush design is exactly the right size to reach the base of the lashes. It has the flexibility to reach and define even smaller lashes, bottom lashes and those at the inner and outer corners of the eyes.

Yves Saint Laurent Everlong Mascara, the first mascara with two-way lengthening action. An instant make-up effect with the new generation brush that also uses plastic bristles and is so supple it allows you to perfectly separate the lashes while coating them from base to tip. Then it has a longer term treatment action, thanks to an innovative Lash Growth Booster complex that stimulates the growth of the lashes and protects them from drying out.

L’Oreal Telescopic Mascara. Once again a unique brush design. It is called a precision multi-comb and it is a four sided brush that initially takes some time to get used to but it really does give you a fantastic effect. The formulation contains extremely fine wax globules which creates a smooth film that stretches, allowing for a very smooth application. It also has a special polymer that helps the mascara to lengthen the lashes and also has Pro-Vitamin B5.

Napoleon Long Black Mascara. Once again the brush takes centre stage with this mascara. This is actually a bent wand applicator that makes it really easy to get to all your lashes. The formula of the mascara is also very good giving an intense black look to the lashes and it also contains lash conditioners such as allantoin, candellia wax and beeswax.

Avon Superfull Mascara. This mascara again leads with the new patented Clean Build Brush. It is a thermoplastic design that creates natural volume by separating and combing the lashes while delivering more mascara continuously from the base to the tip. The formulation of the mascara is called an anti-static building formula and it has a clump free delivery.

Couleur Caramel Mascara. For all those ladies who suffer with very sensitive eyes, now we have an 87% natural mascara. It is solvent-free, mainly composed of water, canuaba wax, shea butter and acacia resin. Comes in 4 colours and 2 brushes, one for short lashes and one for long.

(text and images from The Beauty Review, June 2007)

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Product Review: Just for Redheads — NOT Just for Redheads

by PJ on Sunday, May 13, 2007

in makeup, makeup - eyebrow, makeup - mascara

(Pictured: Just for Redheads’ Brush a Brow,
Brow Stick, and Studio Mascara)

Just for Redheads, as the name suggests, is a line specifically designed for those with red hair and fair skin. Makeup items such as black (or dark grey) mascaras, eyeliners, and eyebrow colors, can simply be too harsh-looking and dramatic for redheads. Warm and auburn hues, in this case, can better enhance the facial features without being overpowering.

If you share this concern, then these goodies might be what you are looking for.

Brush a Brow and Brow Stick (both in Ginger Auburn):

Brush a Brow is a velvety eyebrow powder that goes on smoothly and stays well, while Brow Stick is an eyebrow pencil that is softer than most others. It glides on very easily and creates natural and fluffy-looking brows (not that painted-on look).

The very warm brown tone is of course the main feature. It is that delicious milk-chocolate brown which softly enhances the brows.

Studio Mascara (in Ginger Henna):

What is great about this mascara is that no matter how much I layer it, it does not clump. Although it does not volumize the lashes like some others, it superbly defines, separates, and lengthens the lashes to create an effortlessly natural look.

Again, the warm brown tone is spot-on.

As I was trying on these colors, it appeared to me (who has dark hair and medium skin-tone) that they are not just flattering for people with red hair and fair skin. They are suitable for anyone that wants an ultra-natural warm look. I think what Just for Redheads has created are products that can give an understated and elegant radiance to your face.

The full Just for Redheads line also includes a complete range of makeup, foundation, skincare and haircare products.

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