makeup – eyeshadow

Earlier this month, I posted a preview of Lancôme’s fall 2009 Declaring Indigo collection, with information on the idea behind the creation. Today I am reviewing some of the eye makeup items in this collection. (The second part of this review will be posted next week.)




The three feature colors in the Declaring Indigo collection are blue, red, and gold, and one of the key items is Palette Liberté in 01 Bleu Royauté, which includes a mix of royal blues and gold-toned neutrals.

Color-wise, the two royal blues are almost the same. Also, they both have a satiny matte finish with a faint iridescence. The main difference is that the bottom-right blue contains gold flecks. The bottom-left is a yellow-toned gold (light-reflective shade), while the top-right is a cool medium molten gold (shadowing shade). Both have a softly metallic finish. All the colors in this palette are well-pigmented and have a good staying power.

The two blues can go on sheer or very intense depending on how much is layered. I personally think that, for such strong colors, they look better when they are layered to reach full intensity.

One thing worth noting is that the blues have less movement than the golds. (This seems to be a typical difference between matte and shimmery/metallic shades.) Careful blending is essential. Or you can go for a dramatic block-color look with minimal blending.

For those who would like more subtle and wearable colors, 02 Or Liberté would be a good choice. It features a complete palette of colors, with a highlighter, lighter/darker shades and a lining shade.

The two shades on the right are essentially the same as the two golds in Bleu Royauté. The bottom-left is a light beige-gold with a similar softly metallic finish, and the top-left is a soft black with gold flecks.

To my surprise, my favorite shade in this palette is the black. While it remains a black when worn (which doesn’t look greyish or brownish), it is a soft black that doesn’t look harsh on the eyes. With its subtly shimmery finish (which resembles the natural gloss of the lashes), the color very naturally enhances the base of my lashes without making my eyes look too made-up (which is something I tend to worry about when I use black as an eyelining shade).

Overall, I think this yellow-toned gold palette would suit those with a cool-toned complexion better. For those with a warmer complexion, try pairing this palette with warmer beige-golds.

(The two palettes are housed in gold cases
with Lancôme’s rose motifs.)

The collection includes other eye makeup items that help enhance the look created by the two palettes.

The Ink Artliner in 01 Black Carbon Ink is a cream eyeliner that is applied with the brush designed by Aaron De Mey (available separately). Black Carbon Ink is a very rich black with a matte finish. The waterproof cream goes on smoothly and has a very good staying power. When I test it on the back of my hand, the cream seems to have ample playing time before it sets. When I test it on my eyes, it seems to dry up much more quickly since there is (dry) eyeshadow powder underneath.

The brush is flat with a round tip, which is an optimal shape for an easy and precise application. I also like the fact that the hair is short enough so it is easy to control the brush.




The Virtuôse in 015 Royal Gold Top Coat is, as the name suggests, mainly an eyelash top coat. It has a light-gel texture and is infused with gold flecks. The blue in this mascara is more muted than the blues in the eye palettes. This particular shade is more about adding shimmer to the lashes than about adding color, length or volume. The effect is nicely subtle. (This is a non-waterproof product.)

If you would like to see swatches of the Bleu Royauté palette, please check out this post on My Women Stuff.

The second part of the Lancôme fall 2009 collection review will focus on the three Color Fever Matte lipsticks, the two Color Fever Glosses and the Rose Liberté highlighter. I will also share my thoughts on the whole collection as well as my personal picks.

Updated on July 1st 2009:

You can read the second part of the review here.

Related posts:

Lancôme Génifique Youth Activating Concentrate

Lancôme Tonique Douceur

Spot the Difference – Lancôme Spring 2008 Collection L.U.C.I.

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(image from Prescriptives)

Prescriptives‘ summer 2009 makeup collection, Exhilarating, is inspired by the brand’s Calyx fragrance. The colors are fresh and vibrant, and the ad image conveys a carefree and sensuous feel. Today I am reviewing the three new eyeshadows as well as one of the three new lip glosses from the collection.

(U-Pick Eye Colors in Teal, Calyx Green, and Lemondrop)


U-Pick Eye Colors

Lemondrop (right) is a cream white with a pale champagne undertone and a softly metallic finish, Calyx Green (middle) is a predominantly matte vibrant warm yellow-green, and the softly metallic Teal goes on warmer than it looks in the pan with its yellow-green undertone.

Teal is among the most wearable teals that I have come across in terms of creating a soft daytime look. It works well with Lemondrop, which has a similar warm pale yellow undertone and the same soft metallic finish.

Calyx Green can be a strong accent color when the three shades are used together. It can look quite bold and funky for those with a fair complexion, while I think it can work even better and look really gorgeous for those with a dark complexion.

All the shades go on easily, layer well, and have a good staying power.

Calyx Exhilarating Lip Gloss in Pink Grapefruit

Pink Grapefruit is one of the three lip gloss shades in the collection, along with Mango and Guava. It is a sheer warm pink-red with nicely sparse shimmery particles, which are mostly red and gold. (I personally prefer lip glosses with sparse shimmery particles to those with intense shimmer.)

It has a pleasantly light watery-gel and non-sticky texture. It goes on smoothly and imparts a wet glossy finish that lasts well. I like the juicy and translucent look that it creates.

It has a very light fruity scent that is not overpowering.

Prescriptives’ summer 2009 collection also includes four shades of Exhilarating Lip Color and Calyx Sheer Exhilarating fragrance (50ml). All items in the collection are limited editions.

Related posts on Prescriptives:

Spring 2008 Makeup Collection

Creamy Eye Color, Plush Blush & Magic Liquid Powder

Flawless Skin & AnyWear Foundations

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Coffret D’Or‘s Shine Accent Eyes is part of the brand’s spring 2009 collection and the brand’s third series of eye palettes. Having good experiences with the previous two, I decided to try one palette from the new series. Of course I went for the one with lilac.

02 Pink Variation includes:

Top: very sheer white with soft fine shimmer
Left: sheer light pink with pearly shimmer
Right: moderately-pigmented medium lilac with a pink-plum undertone and pearly shimmer
Middle: a gel-cream liner with off-white sparkles

As with other Coffret D’Or eye palettes, the powder is soft and very easy to blend. The colors have a good staying power.

The pink is on the sheer side and it shows up less on my eyes than on the back of my hand, which is slightly lighter than my face. It should show up more on a fair skin tone than on my light-to-medium skin tone. (It is still more pigmented than the off-white pinks in Lunasol’s Sheer Contrast Eyes in Lavender Coral and Coffret D’Or’s Trance Deep Eyes in Rose Variation.)

The lilac is a soft shading color that goes on warmer than it looks in the pan as it has a pronounced soft muted pinkish (but not reddish) plum undertone. It is warmer than the main lilac in Lunasol’s Layer Bloom Eyes in Purple Gradation.

The gel-cream liner has a dense consistency. According to the eye chart on the back of the outer packaging, it is applied along the lower lashline. The shimmery flecks are larger than the shimmery particles in the other three shades, and the finish is quite sparkly.

This palette creates a soft daytime look with a beautiful shimmery finish. (But I would go easy on the gel-cream liner for daytime.) Compared with the previous Coffret D’Or releases, the overall finish (of the three powder shades) is slightly more shimmery than 3D Lighting Eyes (between pearly and shimmery) and less so than the Trance Deep Eyes (quite sparkly). I also like the pinkish lilac, which is different from the (many) ones I have.

However, because there is no dark lining shade, I personally feel that this palette is less versatile than those from the previous series. Also, I would prefer the pink to be slightly more pigmented so that I could create more looks.

(I have been using the deep violet from 3D Lighting Eyes’ Purple Variation as an eyeliner to go with this palette.)

I think I have more or less formed the habit of trying Coffret D’Or’s new eye palette series, and I am looking forward to the upcoming Color Mixing Eyes, out next month.

Betsy at Autumn Masquerade has reviewed Shine Accent Eyes in 04 Blue Variation. Do have a look!

Other posts on Coffret D’Or:

3D Lighting Eyes in Gold Variation

Trance Deep Eyes in Grey Variation

Makeup Powder (loose powder)

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(image from www.illamasqua.com)

In a typical department store in the UK, most of the beauty (especially makeup) brands are from either the US or Continental Europe. This is why, when the British makeup line, Illamasqua, launched its counter in London’s Selfridges (which has probably the largest beauty department in the UK), it is hard not to get excited.

(image from www.illamasqua)

Illamasqua positions itself as a professional makeup brand that encourages expression and experimentation. As the brand’s slogan is “make-up for your alter ego”, many of the makeup looks on the brand’s website are dramatic, edgy and editorial. Price-wise, it is a medium-to-high end line, with lipsticks priced at £14 and eyeshadow singles priced at £15. Today, I am sharing my thoughts on some of Illamasqua’s products.

Powder Eye Shadows in Feel and Lick

(Powder Eye Shadow in Feel)
(Powder Eye Shadow in Lick)

Currently, most of Illamasqua’s 107 Powder Eye Shadows that the brand was launched with are matte, and Feel and Lick are among the matte shades. Feel is a light-to-medium taupe while Lick is a bright warm reddish pink. Both are moderately-to-well pigmented, and the texture is relatively smooth, partly down to the talc-based formula.

Feel is a good shade for adding soft depth to the eyes for those with a light or light-to-medium complexion. It goes on a little cooler, and I think it would suit cooled-toned complexions a lot more. (It may be on the ashy side for warm-toned complexions.)

You have to be quite bold to wear Lick on a daily basis, but I find that, used light-handedly, it works well as a blusher. (I also like the fact that it happens to be matte, which is my preferred finish for a blusher.) It blends easily as a blusher and should suit most complexions, particularly warm-toned ones.



Volume Mascara in Harness

Volume Mascara is currently Illamasqua’s sole mascara product. It is available in three shades, Harness (black), Nocturnal (brown) and Lewd (blue), and it is a non-waterproof mascara.

Harness is a nice black that doesn’t look greyish or ashy. The formula appears to be quite lightweight, as it doesn’t feel heavy on the eyes or weight down the lashes. It creates more volume than length, though the volume might not be as dramatic as some might hope for. A light-handed application with gentle layering is essential to stay clump-free. Once set, it has a satisfactory staying power.

Overall, Illamasqua seems to be a solid brand with a lot of potential, and it has created buzz among makeup lovers in the UK. It would be interesting to see how well it will do in the next few years and whether it will acquire a more international presence.

(Check here for the list of retail points in the UK and Ireland. Illamasqua’s on-line store delivers within the UK as well as internationally.)

Related posts:

Beauty City Guide – London

Barry M Dazzle Dusts for Spring 2009

Clinique Naturally Glossy Mascara

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Another season, another lilac palette joining my collection

Lunasol‘s Layer Bloom Eyes* palettes are part of Lunasol’s spring 2009 Floral Purification collection. 03 Purple Gradation is inspired by wisteria (fuji) and includes (anti-clock-wise from top-left):

– sheer white with multi-colored sparkles
medium lilac with a soft pearly finish (moderately pigmented)
– predominantly matte cool-toned dark grey with sparse shimmer (well-pigmented)
light lilac with a mildly shimmery finish (moderately pigmented)

All the shades are very soft and easy to apply, and the finish lasts well.

According to the eye chart that comes with the palette, the sheer white is used as a base, the medium lilac is used as a shadowing shade, and the dark grey is for the upper lashline and the outer 1/3 of the lower lashline. The light lilac is applied on the inner 2/3 of the lower lashline.

I really like how the two lilacs work together. The medium lilac has an exceptionally soft texture, and blending is effortless. I can go as sheer or intense as I want with this shade. When applied on the lower lashline, the light lilac seems to look more intense (slightly darker) than it does in the pan. It has a delicate iridescence and brightens the eyes very effectively without creating a stark look.

What I also like about the two lilacs is that the beautiful color seems very long-lasting. After 12 hours of wear, it is not uncommon for some lilacs to take on a very mild bluey-grey hue as the color starts to fade (and I don’t usually take this to be an indication of inferior quality). But the two lilacs here are able to stay fresh almost throughout the day, which impresses me.

Compared with Lunasol’s Lavender Coral palette from spring 2008, I think Purple Gradation is a lot more elegant and understated. The colors are less sparkly and the overall finish is more pearly than shimmery. (Between the two main lilac shades, the one in Purple Gradation is slightly warmer than that in Lavender Coral. I like both equally.) On the whole, Purple Gradation is more similar to Scent Form Eyes in 02 but it is marginally more vibrant due to the mild iridescence. (Scent Form Eyes in 02 is certainly the most low-key of the three.)

Overall, this is a beautiful lilac palette which is very easy to wear, in terms of both the colors and the superb texture of the powder. If you are looking for something as vibrant as the Sheer Contrast Eyes and the Geminate Eyes series, then this palette might not be for you. But if you want a sophisticated eye palette that is not overly shimmery, then the Layer Bloom Eyes series is a must-see.

(It appears that, since the fall 2008 Red Purification collection, Lunasol’s eye palettes are returning to the elegant and understated finish that the brand started off with. It would be interesting to see whether the trend will shift again.)

You can read my friend Betsy’s review of this palette here on Autumn Masquerade.

* Though this palette series is officially called Layer Bloom Eyes, the English name on the outer boxes of palettes sold outside Japan is Blooming Eyes. Check out the photo on this post for the difference.

Related posts:

Lunasol Fall 2009 Collection

Lunasol Summer 2009 Collection
(more Layer Bloom Eyes palettes)

My Personal Take on Lunasol

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Dazzle Dusts are probably the most popular products from Barry M Cosmetics, and, for spring 2009, six new shades have joined the lineup. Today I am reviewing three of the six additions.

The most interesting shade among the three is 93 Block Blue (bottom left in the photo), as it is the first ever matte Dazzle Dust. It is a matte aqua blue that looks quite vibrant and dramatic. 96 Gold is a rich molten gold with very fine multi-colored shimmer, and 98 Petrol Black is a dark cool-grey with cool-toned shimmer (blue, turquoise, and purple). All the shades are very pigmented.

The powder has a good adherence to the skin, but this means blending has to be very swift. (Among the three, Block Blue has the least movement during application and blending can be rather difficult.) Once set, the color and finish of these shades are very long-lasting and don’t fade overtime.

Dazzle Dusts are known for their intensity, and each shade here certainly looks intense in its own way. The matte Block Blue is opaque and creates a bold (and somewhat retro) look for the eyes. Gold imparts a dazzling shimmer that doesn’t look frosty or flat, and I think it should really suit those with a darker skin tone. Petrol Black combines rich pigment and sparkling shimmer. It works well as an eyelining shade, and, with its cool-toned shimmer, it goes well with blue, purple and cool-green eyeshadows.

Overall, these are very good shades to go for if you would like to create a dramatic makeup look for the evening. Also, if you want very pigmented eyeshadows, you will probably be quite happy with Dazzle Dusts.

The other three new shades for spring 2009 are 94 Teal, 95 Parrot Green, and 97 Dark Chocolate.

Barry M is available in Superdrug, Boots, and the Barry M website.

Related posts:

Makeup Review: Barry M

Barry M Deluxe Eyeshadow Kit

Alexander McQueen for MAC Eye Shadow in Haunting

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(SUQQU Blend Eyeshadow in #10)


Last week, I reviewed three of the five Contour Shadows, which are the main items of SUQQU‘s spring 2009 collection. Today, I will highlight several items from the rest of the collection.

The Blend Eyeshadow range (SUQQU’s 4-color eye palette range) was launched in fall 2007 with five variations. Three more were introduced in spring 2008, and another three were added to the range this season. Pictured above, Blend Eyeshadow #10 is a very wearable neutral palette. The shades include (anti-clockwise from bottom right):

– luminous cream white with very sparse and fine shimmer (used as a base)
– softly pearly warm taupe with a very faint mauve undertone and fine multi-colored shimmer
– pearly cool silver with a very faint cool lilac undertone and fine multi-colored shimmer
– predominantly matte dark chocolate brown

The base shade does a good job at brighting up the eye area and making it even-toned (which helps create a base for a clean (rather than muddy) neutral eye look). The warm taupe and the cool silver are moderately pigmented for a delicate and elegant finish. The powder is soft and easily blendable.

When it comes to the texture, the brown eyelining shade reminds me of the purple in Shiseido Maquillage’s Forming Shiny Eyes in 52. Compared with the other shades in their respective compacts, the two shades don’t have as much movement and the powder seems slightly dryer. I think they are formulated like this so that they stay in place for longer.

I find that the warm taupe and the cool silver can work together to create subtly different hues. When I apply a soft layer of the silver underneath the taupe, the taupe looks cooler. As it can sometimes be difficult to get the tones of neutral shades exactly right for a certain complexion or a certain makeup look, this palette, perhaps inadvertently, offers a good solution for at least certain complexions for which taupes are generally suitable.

Overall the colors in this palette are very easy to wear, and the palette is versatile in its own ways.

(SUQQU Blend Lipsticks in #18 (left) & #16 (right))

The Blend Lipstick range was also launched in fall 2007. Various shades were added to the range over the last few seasons and five more were introduced for spring 2009. (Please have a look at my review of Blend Lipstick #14 from SUQQU’s fall 2008 collection.)

Both Blend Lipsticks in #16 and #18 are cooler than #14. #18 is a very pretty cool pink that goes on slightly more vibrant than it looks in the tube. Like Contour Shadow in 02, it really reflects the sakura theme of the collection and it is definitely a very lovely spring-like color. #16 is a light medium pink that applies lighter than it looks in the tube. If you are looking for a nude lipstick with a hint of pink, this shade is worth looking into.

Between the two, #18 seems to be a little more pigmented and can be easily layered for more intensity. # 16 is more about a soft nude look.

Both shades are subtly glossy and create a sophisticated finish. Like all the lipsticks from SUQQU, they have a very creamy texture and glide on effortlessly. (As I mentioned before, SUQQU’s lipsticks are some of the most moisturizing lipsticks that I have come across so far.)

Most of SUQQU’s makeup products radiate sheer quality and sophistication, and these certainly do too. The items reviewed here (along with the Contour Shadows, apart from EX-02) are part of the permanent lineup and are not limited editions. If you do have a chance to stop by a SUQQU counter in Japan, Thailand (Bangkok), and the UK (Selfridges, London), do enjoy testing out these items.

Related posts:

My Personal Take on SUQQU

SUQQU Creamy Lipstick in 22

SUQQU Makeup Base Creamy & Brightup

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(Eyeliner Pen in Dark Emerald)

Earlier this month, I reviewed the colorful Deluxe Eyeshadow Kit from Barry M Cosmetics. Today I will be talking about three other (nicely turquoise and purple) items from Barry M: Eyeliner Pen, Super Soft Eye Crayon, and Lengthening Coloured Mascara.

The Eyeliner Pen boasts a “waterproof, smudge-proof, and super long-wear” formula, and it is not an exaggeration. Once it sets, it is indeed smudge-proof and doesn’t budge. (This is not a smudge-able eyeliner for creating a smoky look.)


The retractable pen glides on very smoothly and the color is richly intense. The shade in Dark Emerald is more of a deep turquoise than emerald and beautifully so, with a softly metallic finish.

Available in eight shades, Eyeliner Pen includes some vibrant colors such as pink, silver, and gold. I would love to see a deep purple in this range.

(Super Soft Eye Crayon in No. 5 Purple)

The Super Soft Eye Crayon (5 shades) in Purple is a warm medium purple with a subtly pearly finish. It is quite a nice soft shade for daytime makeup.

I expected this to have some blendability, but it doesn’t have a lot of it. It does go on relatively smoothly but it doesn’t have a lot of movement when blended with fingers. Overall I see this as a moderately-pigmented chunky eyeliner or an eyeshadow that is applied close to the lashline.

(Lengthening Coloured Mascara in Electric Purple)

The Lengthening Coloured Mascara is available in 5 bright shades and adds color to the lashes. Electric Purple is a medium-to-dark warm purple that is pigmented and opaque enough to cover the original dark color of my lashes.


It gently lengthens the lashes (without clumping) and doesn’t add a lot of volume. While it does not dramatically lengthen or volumize the lashes, it can be a fun item to have if you want some funky color on your lashes. It can be used alone or on top of your usual lengthening/volumizing mascara or mascara base. For a pop of color, try using it on the ends of the lashes or on the lashes towards the outer corners of the eyes.

The Lengthening Coloured Masara range is waterproof, even though neither the packaging nor Barry M’s website indicates so.

Related posts:

Cult Product in the Making: MAMEW Mascara Kit

Clinique (Truly) Naturally Glossy Mascara

Kasalan Patharan Eye Color Palette in S007

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Founded by Barry Mero in 1982, Barry M has been quite a popular UK makeup line here. Its vibrant colors, reminiscent of the 80s when the line started, always seem to stand out among other drugstore lines in Boots and Superdrug stores. Today I am reviewing the Deluxe Eyeshadow Kit.

The cardboard compact comes with a mirror and a double-ended sponge applicator.

From top to bottom, left to right:

– dark royal blue, yellow gold, warm purple
– aqua blue, dark grey, cool green
– beige gold, silver, medium brown

The finish and the pigmentation level seem unified across the board. All the colors are well-pigmented. They have a subtle pearly finish with very fine shimmer. None of the shades looks overly frosty.

The colors go on quite smoothly and blend well, and the staying powder is good

I like the fact that the nine colors range from the neutral and office-friendly beige gold and brown to the more 80s-tastic blue, green, and purple. (These three colors go on very slightly lighter, but they are still very vibrant.)

The bright shades complement one another. The aqua blue and the green (with a hint of light turquoise) blend with each other well when I try to wear both of them at the same time. Also, the neutrals can create quite a seamless gradational look.

To have fun with the palette, you can take the three colors from each row or column and see what look you can come up with. (I find that most of the combinations do make sense, and I particularly like the top row, with blue, purple, and gold.)

Considering the fact that Barry M’s eyeshadow singles (Dazzle Dust) cost 4.50 GBP each, the Deluxe Eyeshadow Kit’s price tag (9.95 GBP) seems modest. I think this is a good palette to go for either if you would like a versatile palette at an affordable price or if you want to experiment with colors that you don’t really wear very often.

(The Barry M website ships internationally.)

Related posts (other good items at affordable prices):

Maybelline Dream Mousse Blush

Simple Moisturising Facial Wash

Olay Complete Care Night Enriched Cream

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Many Japanese makeup brands feature a liquid or light-cream eyeshadow that is applied with a sponge (or occasionally a brush) applicator and blended with a finger. (One of the most popular ones is perhaps Beauté de Kosé’s Eye Fantasist.) RMK‘s version is Water Color Eyes, which is more liquidy than creamy. It comes in 7 shades, and today I am reviewing #02 Lavender.

It is a light lilac with subtle multi-colored shimmer. One layer creates a mildly pearly finish with no obvious sparkle (which is the finish I tend to go for with this item). More layers create a more intense/pearly look.

When worn lightly, it can brighten up the eyes naturally without looking obvious. Once when I wore it, a friend commented that my eye area looked brighter and she wasn’t aware that I was wearing makeup on my eyelids until I told her.

Apart from the lids, it can also be worn under eyebrows and in the inner corners of the eyes. For the latter, simply take off the excess on the applicator (which is
a sponge applicator that we usually see for a lip gloss) and apply the color with very minimal blending.

The color is easily blended with a finger. The liquidy texture allows just enough time for blending, and, once it dries, the color sets quite firmly. I am very impressed with the staying power. After a whole day, the finish stays put and doesn’t fade. (I don’t usually use a primer under eyeshadows.)

If you want to brighten up the eye-lid area with an item that works subtly and effectively, this is a good item to consider. Also, if you are looking for eyeshadows that are more resistant to creasing, this range should be worth looking into.

Related posts:

RMK Spring 2009 Collection

Can’t Live Without – RMK Cleansing Oil

Review: RMK Fall 2008 Collection

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