Makeup, Skincare, Fragrance and a Bit of Fashion
(image from www.iswii.net)
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The Color Mixing Eyes (カラーミキシングアイズ/幻妝眼彩盒) series is part of Kanebo Coffret D’Or‘s summer 2009 makeup collection. Even though 04 Lavender Purple Mix, which I tried first, was not my favorite Coffret D’Or palette, I liked it enough to want to try another one. Also, I was looking for eye palettes with warm neutrals, so I decided to pick up 01 Orange Brown Mix.
The four shades in this palette:
Bottom left: sheer off-white with soft shimmer
Top left: moderately pigmented warm champagne gold with a mildly sparkly finish
Top right: moderately pigmented light-to-medium bronze with soft shimmer
Bottom right: pigmented dark brown with mild shimmer
One of the reasons I decided to go for Orange Brown Mix is that I wanted to try something a little warmer than Coffret D’Or’s 3D Lighting Eyes in Gold Variation. Orange Brown Mix did turn out to be substantially warmer. Between the two champagne golds, the one in Orange Brown Mix is slightly warmer. The bronze in Orange Brown Mix is also warmer than the neutral (not too warm/cool) gold in Gold Variation.
(Even though, with Color Mixing Eyes, the two colors on top of the palettes are supposed to be mixed together, I tend to use them separately for more versatility.)
The light-to-medium bronze can look a little too bronze-y on me at first. But after half an hour or so, the color relaxes and merges with the skin tone. Still looking very warm, it is more of a soft orange-toned bronze than a true bronze.
When the champagne gold and the bronze are mixed together, the champagne gold adds a touch of coolness to the bronze. Plus, the different sizes of shimmery particles give the mixture a nice dimension.
It is hard to decide whether I prefer Orange Brown Mix or Gold Variation. Orange Brown Mix is more vibrant and summery, while Gold Variation is more understated and elegant. They suit different needs and different moods. But, in terms of the texture of the powder and the overall finish, I slightly prefer Gold Variation. The powder is very silky and the gold shade has a beautiful pearly finish.
Overall, Orange Brown Mix is a nice eye palette for warmer months, as the shades bring a summery warmth to the eyes and help brighten up the face. But I think some people will like the palette for winter for exactly the same reason. While I will go back to this palette (regardless of the seasons) from time to time, I will continue to explore warm neutral-toned palettes.
Related posts:
Magie Deco Shadow Brilliance II in DC025 Foxy Lady
RMK Spring Modern Eyes in 03 Orangy Brown
SUQQU Blend Eyeshadow in 10 Sakuragi
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Early last year, my friend Lynn (who reviewed items from Thierry Mugler) told me about Dutch makeup artist Ellis Faas, whom she read about on the February 2009 issue of W Magazine. (You can see the article here.)
Ellis Faas used to work on special effects as she recreated wounds and bruises for public service campaigns and music videos. Knowing that I loved purples, Lynn drew my attention to one of the things Faas said about purples:
During shoots, Faas, 46, noticed that the unsightly bumps and gashes she was trying to create were made up of hues that looked shockingly good against skin. “I started to use those colors in a beautifying way rather than a gory way,” she says. “Why not take the purple in a bruise and use it as an eye color? It’s a very natural thing to do.” (p. 74, W Magazine, February 2009)
I was fascinated by how Faas looked at colors. In the same article, she also mentioned pinks (from the palms of the hands) and browns (from pigmentations like freckles). Coincidentally, I mentioned in my report on makeup trends of spring 2009 that pinks, purples, and neutrals were the three main ways in which many beauty brands interpreted wearable colors. Faas’ philosophy on “human colours” provides her own perspective on why these colors are considered to be wearable and flattering and, on a more personal level, why I think pinks, purples, and neutrals look good on me.
Nearly all the items in Ellis Faas’ makeup line are in a fluid form and they are packaged in pen-shaped cases. Here are my thoughts on some of the items.
Creamy Eyes in E105 is a well-pigmented medium-to-dark brown. It has a mousse-cream consistency that feels light and fluffy. It spreads easily on the skin and has a velvety, suede-like, and semi-matte finish (with minimal shimmer). The staying power is very good.
It sets very quickly so blending has to be quick. I find that it is not very easy to fade the edges with fingers and that it works better in creating a dramatic block-color look (which you see in the link above). Personally I like it as an eyeliner. The brush makes it easy for the color to go on the lashlines smoothly and efficiently.
I tend to think I am far from the best person to review mascaras, because most mascaras don’t smudge or flake on me and they very rarely irritate my eyes. For me, Mascara in E401 Black is a standard mascara that performs relatively well. It lengthens and volumizes the lashes reasonably well, and the clumping is minimal.
Creamy Lips in L101 Ellis Red is a well-pigmented and intense red that is slightly on the cool side. (It seems cooler than how it looks on the official website.) It has a lightweight gel-like liquid-to-cream consistency that does not feel heavy on the lips. It imparts a creamy sheen on the lips, and, applied light-handedly, it creates a stained look. The color is rich and dramatic.
Blush in S302 is my favorite item of the four. Before I tried it on my skin, I thought it might be too peachy for me. But it turns out to be a sheer peach that looks very natural. It is easy to apply as it has a lightweight creamy consistency that doesn’t drag on the skin. It can be layered for slightly more intensity.
I personally like blushers that are on the sheer side so this item appeals to me. If you like pigmented blushers, then it might be too sheer for you.
When I first got to know about the line, it wasn’t available in the UK. It was great to know later on that the line was launched in Liberty in London in February. It is also available at DollyLeo.com.
The French Vogue described Ellis Faas as “one of the most influential make-up artists of her time”. Her Human Colours makeup line carries a unique identity and is able to make a clear statement which reflects her views on beauty and colors. Whether you like your makeup to be natural or dramatic, you are likely to find items that work well for you.
(The items featured in this article are provided by Ellis Faas.)
Related posts:
New Japanese Beauty Brand: Addiction
(created by Japanese makeup artist Ayako)
SHISEIDO Luminizing Satin Eye Colors
(in collaboration with Dick Page)
SUQQU: Sensuality with an Attitude
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In my post on the makeup trend of spring 2010, I mentioned that quite a few orange-toned shades seemed to be appearing among Japanese cosmetics. Today, I am looking at a good example of this trend, Spring Modern Eyes in 03 Orangy Brown from RMK’s spring 2010 collection.
Top left: well-pigmented mildly metallic warm brown with a burgundy undertone
Bottom: moderately-pigmented shimmery light warm beige
Middle: lightly-pigmented mildly shimmery off-white
Right: sheer subtly shimmery soft peachy orange
The orange looks vibrant in the pan, but it is sheer and subtle when applied.
All the colors go on very smoothly, especially the light beige and the dark brown. The staying power of all the colors is good.
According to the application instruction enclosed with the palette, firstly, the light beige is applied on the eyelids. Then, the dark brown is used to line the eyes and the off-white is applied on the brow bones. Finally, the light orange is layered on top of the other three shades.
Based on this application, the effect is soft and warm. Even though the light beige and the orange are on the sheer side, they are not so sheer that they would just show up as shimmer.
I personally really like the light beige, which is a very good daytime color. It has the right (softly warm) tone for my slightly warm complexion and it adds subtle depth to the eyes. The multi-color shimmer also enhances the dimension of the eyes.
The orange imparts a touch of bounciness to the eye areas. It can be layered for slightly more intensity, but it doesn’t look gaudy or overly vibrant. It can also be used in the inner corners of the eyes or as a lower-eye liner for a very different look. I have not tried any shade similar to it before and I do find it to be quite wearable.
This palette is an interesting reinterpretation of warm neutrals. If the orange in this palette were a medium-to-dark beige, the palette would be relatively more ordinary. The orange certainly adds a bit of novelty and an element of surprise and discovery to the palette. It makes this palette worthy of a look even if you already have a few neutral palettes.
(The product featured in this review is provided by RMK.)
Related posts on RMK:
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In the last few seasons, I have been picky about what makeup items to buy. However, I couldn’t resist Coffret D’Or‘s Jewelcious Eyes in 05 Purple Amethyst. Firstly, it is purple, and, secondly, it is Coffret D’Or.
The Jewelcious Eyes series is part of Kanebo Coffret D’Or’s spring 2010 collection, and there are five variations available. I was also interested in 04 Amber Beige, but, after seeing some photos of the palette, I thought that it might be too cool-toned for me.
The four shades in 04 Purple Amethyst are:
Left: sheer off-white with subtle shimmer
Right: moderately pigmented medium purple with pearly multi-colored shimmer
Bottom: well-pigmented dark charcoal-toned purple with sparse shimmer
Center: multi-colored sparkles (with little pigment)
All the colors have a good staying power.
I thought the medium purple might be a little too cool for me, but it actually goes on warmer than it looks in the pan and it turns out to be a shade that suits me quite well.
One of the selling points of this series is the “Jewel Shower” shade in the center of the palette. It is meant to be used over the eyelids as well as along the inner corners of the eyes to add some intense sparkles. I was worried that the sparkles would not stay put on my lids, but they do have a good adherence to the skin and there is very little fallout. The sparkling effect lasts throughout the day. (Personally, I think the shade is better suited for evening makeup.)
(I like the design of the case.)
Related posts on Coffret D’Or:
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Aromaleigh is one of the many well-known mineral makeup lines. It carries a vast number of shades with various finishes. Today I am featuring some of the line’s eyeshadows.
The shades in the Opulent Lustre range layer well and can look very intense. The powder has a very good adherence to the skin and the lasting power is outstanding. But the drawback is that it is not very easy to blend. (These descriptions apply to the shades in the Valentine 2009 and the Eye Lustre ranges featured further below.)
Tamarind, Camellia, and Jasmine are soft pale shades that look slightly different in the packets. Tamarind looks the coolest and Jasmine looks the warmest. But, when worn, they look virtually the same. They show up as a silvery cool pink with a richly metallic finish that is very light-reflective. These shades are much more suitable for evening makeup since the metallic finish is very dramatic.
Color-wise, Sweet Nothings, from the Valentine 2009 collection (which is still available), looks virtually the same (when worn) as the three shades above. The main difference is that the finish (which is even more light-reflective) looks less flat and more dimensional due to the more varied sizes and colors of shimmery particles. (Based on how it looks in the packet, color-wise, it is between Tamarind and Camellia.)
The Les Papillions range features bright colors with the same staying power. Dormant Dream is a vivid orchid purple and Morphing Moon is a green-toned turquoise. They are less metallic than the shades from the Opulent Lustre range, and I find them to be a lot more blendable. Between the two, Morphing Moon is more shimmery and metallic than Dormant Dream.
Circé from the Eye Lustre range and Chocolate Heart from the Valentine 2009 range are medium-to-dark brown-toned shades that are suitable as shadowing/contouring shades as well as lining shades. Circé is more bronze-toned and Chocolate Heart is more red-toned. Both are quite easy to wear but I personally find Chocolate Heart to be slightly more wearable.
Overall, these are relatively solid products with a great staying power (in terms of both color and the shimmery/metallic finish). The darker and the more vibrant colors show up on the eyes as they look in the packets. On the other hand, it would be great if the lighter colors could show their differences when worn as well and if the metallic shades were more blendable.
(The products featured in this review are provided by Aromaleigh.)
Other posts on mineral makeup:
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Late last year, one of my readers suggested that I recommend items for a complete makeup look. I thought that I would recommend items that create a natural look that is suitable for daily wear. Today, I will focus on eye makeup items.
– Coffret D’Or 3D Lighting Eyes in Purple Variation (right)
Released in December 2007, it is still one of my favorite eye palettes. The dusky pink and the light lilac are a winning combination. The violet lining shade is one of the most beautiful lining shades I have come across.
– Coffret D’Or Trance Deep Eyes in Rose Variation (left)
Try this one if you want a palette that is similar to 3D Lighting Eyes in Purple Variation but with more warmth. (Do note that this palette is more shimmery.)
– Magie Deco Shadow Brilliance II in Foxy Lady (top)
This is my recent favorite. It includes soft warm neutrals that create a natural depth for the eyes.
– Clinique Naturally Glossy Mascara in Jet Black
It is one of the most natural-looking mascaras that I have come across. It creates subtle length and volume for the lashes, and it has never clumped on my lashes.
I think this is one of SUQQU’s finest creations. Use this brush with any eyebrow powder that suits you. I like the fact that the brush is able to enhance the structure of the eyebrows without leaving any hard edges.
More recommendations for cheeks & lips as well as the complexion!
(The SUQQU Eyebrow Brush L featured in this post is provided by SUQQU.)
Related posts (other wearable items):
Coffret D’Or 3D Lighting Eyes in Gold Variation
SUQQU Blend Eyeshadow in 10 Sakuragi
Chanel Irréelle Duo in Désert-Rose
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Magie Deco is a point (color) makeup line that is part of Kosé’s high-end brand Cosme Decorte. It was launched in fall 2007 and the products’ price points are similar to those of Lunasol’s. Shadow Brilliance II in DC025 Foxy Lady, which is part of Magie Deco’s fall 2009 collection, is my first item from the line.
One thing I like about Magie Deco is that it often brings out eye palettes with interesting and unusual color combinations. (In Japanese cosmetics, many mainstream brands constantly release tone-on-tone eye palettes.)
One palette that helps define the line’s character is Shadow Brilliance in 014 Believe in Magic, which is part of the line’s launch collection in fall 2007. The palette includes a plum pink and an olive green, which don’t usually appear together in eye palettes from Japanese brands.
The new Shadow Brilliance II series, launched in fall 2009, also features some interesting color combinations. (LC028 Lovable Muse includes a lilac and an aqua green.)
The main reason why I went for Foxy Lady, a tone-on-tone neutral palette (instead of one with a more unusual color combination), is that I was looking for an eye palette with soft warm latte-like neutrals. Foxy Lady is the one I decided to try. 
The five colors in this palette are (clock-wise from bottom right):
– off-white with a hint of gold
– light-to-medium warm beige
– soft warm yellow gold
– light warm beige
(subtly lighter than the light-to-medium beige)
– dark brown
All the shades have subtle shimmery particles. They show up predominantly as a veil of gold-toned shimmer under sunlight while they look more multi-colored under artificial lighting. They have a smooth texture and are very easy to blend. The staying power is good.
The eyeshadows are very gently scented with a floral-fruity fragrance.
The three lightest shades are softly pigmented. Even among eyeshadows in Japanese cosmetics, they are on the sheer side. Because I wanted soft neutrals in the first place, I don’t mind them being sheer. The light-to-medium warm beige at the bottom left is moderately pigmented and is not overly sheer. Overall, I like the ethereal look that these shades create.
The dark brown is a lot more pigmented than the other four, but, as a lining shade, it is also slightly less pigmented than most other lining shades in eye palettes from Japanese makeup lines.
The two beiges create a delicate gradation. I particularly like the darker one of the two. It is not always easy to find light-to-medium neutrals that are able to create depth, as light neutrals are usually made to be light-reflective. But this shade, while softly shimmery (not frosty or overly light-reflective), is able to create a natural depth for the eyes.
The soft yellow gold imparts a touch of vibrancy. It can replace (or work with) the off-white as a base, a highlighter for the brow bones, and a highlighter for the inner corners of the eyes.
I also like the case of the palette. Surprisingly, the pink case never looks overly saccharine. The pink and the gold work delightfully well together, and the faceted gem-like shape is feminine and regal at the same time.
Overall I really like this palette. I will certainly go back to it again and again, and I will continue to look forward to Magie Deco’s new releases. If you like your neutrals to be pigmented and intense, then you can safely skip this palette. If you want very wearable neutrals that are suitable for daytime, then this palette may be worth your consideration.
Related posts:
Magie Deco Summer 2009 Collection
Coffret D’Or 3D Lighting Eyes in Gold Variation
Lavshuca Summer Gradually Compact in Shiny Sandy Beach
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(Alexander for MAC Eye Shadow in Haunting,
He was awarded British Designer of the Year four times (1996, 1997, 2001, 2003) and was known for his rebellious ideas and dramatic designs. His talent and contribution to fashion will be long missed.
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(image from www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/coffretdor)
I will review the Jewelicious Eyes palette first later on since it is this season’s item.
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Fall 2024 Makeup Trend Spotlight: New Blusher Ranges & Lavender Blushers (image from www.cosme.net)
