makeup – base makeup – powder

Anna Sui & Jill Stuart Latest Foundation Cases

by PJ on Thursday, March 27, 2008

in -Anna Sui, -Jill Stuart, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - foundation, makeup - base makeup - powder, stash focus

Today I am sharing two latest additions to my foundation case collection.

First up is the case of Anna Sui‘s Loose Compact Powder UV, which is part of Anna Sui’s spring/summer 2008 base makeup release. This case is for the new loose powder refills and is designed to make Anna Sui’s loose powder slightly more travel-friendly. (Remember that Anna Sui’s original large loose powder case doesn’t have a screw lid and is very tricky to travel with.)

Even though white is my least favorite color for Anna Sui’s packaging, I like the thickness of the case compared with other Anna Sui’s foundation compacts.

The case comes with a purple powder puff which is very soft to the touch.

Please notice that the sift is included in the refill and not in the case. So this is not the kind of portable loose powder case in which you can put your own loose powder. But, size-wise, all the round Anna Sui foundation refills can fit into this case.

Next is the Jill Stuart‘s Powder Foundation Compact S, which is released with the new Smooth Skin Powder Foundation. Compared with the original Powder Foundation Case (released in spring 2006), the new case has a different design for the lid and features a charm with floral details.

Let’s see the two designs side by side. The spring 2006 case is on the left and the spring 2008 one is on the right:

All the Jill Stuart powder foundation and pressed powder refills are the same size, and the cases are sold separately. So what case to pick when you purchase a Jill Stuart foundation refill is entirely up to you.

Furthermore, since both Anna Sui and Jill Stuart (and Paul & Joe as well) commission Kosé (which owns Albion, commissioned by Anna Sui and Paul & Joe) to produce the makeup (and skincare) line, all their round foundation refills can fit into all cases.

My case collection does take up a bit of space. But, for me, it is a slightly less pricey way to chart the development of a brand’s image and there is no need to worry about products expiring. I shall continue to pick up the cases I like from my favorite brands.

More cases:

Sofina Raycious Foundation Case Galore

My Anna Sui Foundation Case Collection

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Dressing Table Centerpiece: Paul & Joe Face Powder

by PJ on Sunday, January 27, 2008

in -Paul & Joe, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - powder, stash focus

(Paul & Joe Face Powder in 03 Ambre)

I bought Paul & Joe‘s Face Powder in Harrods in London during the winter sale just a few weeks ago. At 50% off (13 pounds), it was a good bargain. (You can read about some of the huge savings people can make on cosmetics in the UK during the seasonal sales.)

The reason why it was reduced is that Face Powder was replaced by Face Powder N last year, so the Paul & Joe counters (both in Harrods and Fenwick) were clearing out this previous version. (The comparison between the two versions will be made towards the end of this post.) I hadn’t tried the loose powder by Paul & Joe before so I thought I’d try it at this reasonable price.

Like Anna Sui’s loose powder, the case is quite bulky, but I absolutely don’t mind. (I do like my makeup items to have a substantial look and feel.)

(the case and the puff)

Also, like Anna Sui’s loose powder, the cap simply rests on the loose powder container. This can also make transporting the case tricky. I have heard about many “accidents” where the whole case is tipped over and half of the powder ends up on the floor. (Basically, this loose powder is one of the best candidates for the centerpiece on your glamorous dressing table. It is probably not even suitable for trips around your home.)

(The cap simply goes on the silvery rim.)

The similarity to the Anna Sui powder continues. The refill is in a closed round paper container. The top is cut off to reveal the powder.

(I followed the dotted lines…)

Then, the powder container goes back into the loose powder case. The sift is simply placed on top of the powder.

(It is finally done…)

I know that many people really don’t like this design, all the way from the case to the refill and the sift. It all seems quite fiddly. I personally don’t have problems with them. I think it has that delicate “handle with care” quality that can really appeal to me sometimes.

What I do have a problem with is the powder puff. Imagine your puff for your loose body shimmer and this is basically it. First of all, it is too hairy and fluffy for an even application. All I can do is very lightly dust the powder on the face. There is no way I can press the powder onto the skin evenly and have the powder diffuse the look of the pores. Secondly, the core of the puff is solid, so I can’t rub the two sides of the puff against each other to make the puff drink in the powder evenly. The powder can only sit on top of all the fluffy hair, and this simply doesn’t help with an even application. So, I use one of my other loose powder puffs instead.

Onto the finish of the powder itself. I have often heard that Paul & Joe’s base makeup line (primers, foundations, concealers, and loose powder… particularly the foundations) is all about creating a sheer and ultra-natural look. This is certainly what this loose powder offers. Because 03 Ambre is quite a good match with my skin-tone, it goes on almost invisibly, as it imparts a very light air of luminosity. The powder does have shimmer, but it is quite fine and sparse. The finish is very gentle and subtle and is not visibly either matte or glowy.

If you like an ultra-natural barely-there look, then this loose powder is worth trying. But I usually like my loose powder to give me a matte finish and to have a good pore-diffusing and sebum-controlling ability.

While at the counter, I noticed that the new version of loose powder (Face Powder N) is almost completely shimmer-less. It will probably give me the matte finish I like. Also, the shade in #02, which is the closest to the #03 Ambre that I have, seems, in a good way, slightly less pinkish and more yellowish. This would be the shade I would go for if I decide to try the current version. Also, it seems that #03 (of the new version) is one of the darkest loose powder shades from a Japanese cosmetics brand. If you have darker skin-tones and find it difficult to find a loose powder from a Japanese brand, then this shade might be worth a look.

Over all, Paul & Joe Face Powder is all about subtlety. I will definitely continue to enjoy using it sometimes, but I will reach for some of my other loose powder options when I need a truly finished look.

(One note: I think the Paul & Joe Face Powder, which I am reviewing here, might have also been replaced by Face Powder N in some other countries. But, some of the authorized Paul & Joe on-line sellers in the UK, which are listed on the Shop Info page of the English Paul & Joe Beauty website, are still carrying the Face Powder. I believe some of them ship internationally.)

Paul & Joe Foundation Primer N
(a very effective and well-rounded primer)

Paul & Joe Lip Gloss N in Black-Tie
(my favorite Holiday 2007 item)

Loving Japanese Brands: Paul & Joe
(my personal take on Paul & Joe)

Lavshuca Face Powder
(my current favorite loose powder)

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Product Review: Prescriptives Creamy Eye Color, Plush Blush, and Magic Liquid Powder

by PJ on Friday, January 25, 2008

in -Prescriptives, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - powder, makeup - blusher, makeup - eyeshadow

(Prescriptives Magic Liquid Powder in Red Neutralizer,
Creamy Eye Color in Moonstone,
Plush Blush for Cheeks and Lips
in Ibiza Sunset (left) and Balinese Peach (right))

Here is the report of my latest Prescriptives trials. Please enjoy!

— Creamy Eye Color in Moonstone

(Prescriptives Creamy Eye Color)
(image from www.prescriptives.com)

This product has quite a thick cream texture. It dries up very quickly upon application, so swift blending is vital. Moonstone is a white with a pearly sheen and some shimmering particles.

What impresses me the most is how the color and shimmer stay put. Once it dries, the color really sets on the lids. It doesn’t smudge or move. Also, with Moonstone’s bright hue, I am surprised to see that the finish stays fresh for hours. Throughout the day, it always appears that I’ve just put it on and there is very little fading.

— Plush Blush for Cheeks and Lips in Balinese Peach and Ibiza Sunset

(Plush Blush for Cheeks and Lips)
(image from www.prescriptives.com)

On the Prescriptives website, this product is accurately described as providing “a sheer wash of dewy color” for the cheeks. The finish is indeed very sheer. Even for someone like me, who likes medium-to-sheer blushers, I think they are a bit too sheer. (The color won’t show very well unless you have a very light skin-tone.) What the product adds is mostly a dewy sheen to the cheek area. Used for the lips, they offer a semi-matte finish with a soft metallic sheen. Again, there is only a very sheer veil of color.

Balinese Peach has a slight tinge of warm pink, while Ibiza Sunset is a very sheer warm gold with a little more shimmer.

— Magic Liquid Powder in Red Neutralizer

(Magic Liquid Powder in Red Neutralizer)
(image from www.prescriptives.com)

This product claims to minimize lines, pores, and wrinkles and to mute redness. For me, it doesn’t minimize pores. (It certainly doesn’t minimize my pores nearly as well as some of my other loose powder.) Also, it doesn’t neutralize redness. It does provide a golden sheen, which is supposed to even out redness. But, at least on my face, it doesn’t do what it is supposed to do. The powder mainly gives a bit of soft luminosity to the skin. For me, I’d like my loose powder to do more.

Part of the powder does melt in contact with skin and provides a pleasantly cooling sensation. Usually I use a powder puff to apply loose powder, but, with this, the application is much more successful with a fluffy powder brush.

Other Prescriptives Reviews:

Flawless Skin and AnyWear Foundations

Magic Illuminating Potion in Red Neutralizer, Better Off Fast-Acting Makeup Remover, and Site Unseen Brightening Concealer

Related Posts:

Lavshuca Face Powder in Lucent
(It has everything I want from a loose powder!)

Makeup Essentials: White Eyeshadows
(Brighten your eyes with them!)

Anna Sui Face Color Accent
(Beautifully packaged and gives you rosy cheeks.)

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Loving It – Lavshuca Face Powder in Lucent

by PJ on Sunday, December 9, 2007

in -Kanebo, -Lavshuca, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - powder, stash focus

(Lavshuca Face Powder in Lucent)

First of all, I admit that this item caught my attention ever since I saw the packaging. Very few loose powder containers (possibly part from Jill Stuart’s) look dreamier than this. With Lavshuca being an affordable shelf-top brand, I had to get this.

(Lavshuca Face Powder)

(image from www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/lavshuca/)

I bought this soon after it was released in fall 2006. The packaging looks as good as it appears on-line and in magazines. I was very pleased with that.

When I tested the powder on the back of my hand for the first time, I was slightly concerned. Even though the shade was the pale translucent beige that I usually went for, there seemed to be some shimmer. As I normally only used a completely matte loose powder, I was not sure if this was going to be something I would use regularly.

But when I put it on my face for the first time, all worries disappeared. The shimmer was relatively sparse and extremely fine. The finish is still basically matte, but it is not chalky. It is silky and almost satiny.

What I also love (perhaps the most) about this loose powder is its ability to disguise pores. It is able to make my skin look smoother and more even. As I usually wear a loose powder mainly to make pores less visible and to get a polished complexion, I am very happy with what it can do.

I also like the puff that comes with it. Apart from looking so adorable. it feels quite soft and puffy on the skin. The hair is not too long so it grabs the powder and places it on the skin evenly. I usually press (instead of sweep) the powder onto the skin, and the puff works very well for me.

I have another loose powder by Sofina Raycious. It is essentially matte and does a fairly good job in controlling shine. I shall review it in more detail a bit later!

Related Posts:

Which loose powder will win my heart?
(I have already decide to get one of them…)

Loving Japanese Brands: Lavshuca
(a brief profile on Kanebo’s successful budget line)

Lavshuca Spring 2008 Collection
(featuring some more lovely packaging)

Lavshuca Eye Color Select in PU-2
(another of my Lavshuca Favorite)

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Loose Powder: A Reemerging Phase?

by PJ on Sunday, October 28, 2007

in -Anna Sui, -Cosme Decorte, -Kanebo, -Kosé, -Lunasol, -Magie Deco, -SUQQU, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - powder

I always find myself in various “phases” when it comes to makeup purchases. Powder foundations, eyebrow powder, lipsticks, lip glosses, and blushers are some of the major phases in the last few years. Recently there is a recurring phase emerging: loose powder.

There is something very elegant about using a loose powder to lightly set the foundation to create that wonderfully polished complexion. Usually, it takes less time to achieve it with a pressed powder, but a nice loose powder sitting on the dressing table always carries an air of glamor.

I tend to choose a sheer loose powder that is either totally matte or with very little fine shimmer. It is even more ideal if the loose powder can effectively diffuse pores.

Meet the candidates vying for my attention:

Anna Sui Loose Powder

(image from www.annasui-cosmetics.com)

I have used the very first version of Anna Sui Loose Powder. Since then, it went through two packaging changes and now we are looking at the third version. (I do like the previous gold case.)

There are six shades available, which offer a good range of choices. The best selling shade in Asia is #200, which is a very sheer lavender with quite a lot of pearly shimmer. I have tested it and it doesn’t really suit me. I think a light beige (either #700 and #701, both matte) would suit me better.

Lunasol Micro Finish Powder N

(image from www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/lunasol/)

I have read some good reviews of this loose powder, praising the fineness of the powder in particular. I also like the simple round case with the reflective copper-tone lid. #01 Translucent is an off-white with shimmer while I will be considering #02 Natural Beige, a light beige without shimmer.

Magie Deco Face Powder

(image from www.cosmedecorte.com/magiedeco/)

Kosé’s top-end brand Cosme Decorte has launched a slightly more affordable (but still high-end) makeup line this fall, Magie Deco. The packaging draws part of the inspiration from the symmetric and structural Art Deco era. I have come across some magazine coverage of this loose powder and its pore-diffusing ability grabbed my attention. Four shades are available (Lucent/ Pearl Nuance/ Natural Beige/ Pink Sparkle), and I will be considering Lucent, a sheer matte pale beige.

SUQQU Loose Powder

(image from www.suqqu.com)

I like the deep violet packaging of the new SUQQU foundation line. The Loose Powder comes in two shades, Natural and Deep. The idea is to use both shades, with Natural for highlighting and Deep for contouring. Priced at 35 pounds (around 70 USD), it is unlikely that I will pick up both. Next week I will visit the SUQQU counter and see which one suits me better overall.

It is very likely that I will pick up at least one of these four. Which one will it be? I will keep you posted!

Sofina Raycious Pressed Powder Mini-Galore

by PJ on Thursday, October 18, 2007

in -Kao, -Sofina, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - powder, stash focus

(My three Sofina Raycious pressed powder compacts:
Left: Raycious Lucent Powder
Middle: Raycious Ray Blend Powder
Right: Raycious Ray Contrast Powder)

After showing you all my Sofina Raycious powder foundation cases (you can read both Part One and Part Two of the post), I am now bringing you more items from my Raycious collection.

This time it is all about the pressed finishing powder.

Apart from powder foundations, Sofina Raycious also releases pressed finishing powder compacts, which are mainly used with Raycious’ liquid foundations. But I do use them after my powder foundation to create a polished look.

The one on the left (in the photo above) is the first edition (Raycious Lucent Powder), released several years ago. It comes in two finishes. The upper section is sheer and completely matte. It is simply the best finishing powder I have ever used in term of controlling shine and concealing pores. The polished look is also long-lasting. The lower section is a wonderful highlighting powder. It imparts a natural luminous glow without being shimmery or glittery. (I have several refills of Lucent Powder and I put in a new one for the photos.)

The middle one is the second edition (Raycious Ray Blend Powder) and the right one is the third and (the only) currently available edition (Raycious Ray Contrast Powder). (Just like the Raycious powder foundations, when a new edition is released, the previous one is discontinued.) The second edition gives more overall luminosity while the third edition has a section for subtle shading.

All of them have SPF 14 and PA+.

The first edition comes with a square puff, and the other two come with a brush:

As for the packaging (seen below), the first edition is on the left and the third is on the right. (I only bought the refill of the second edition at the time. The second-edition case is in the same shape as the first one. The only difference is that the case is semi-transparent.)

Overall, most Raycious foundations really suit me and the finishing powder is no exception. I will always look forward to any new edition.

I have some more Raycious items to come in the future!

Related Posts:

My Foundation Routine
(See my other favorite foundation products.)

Loving Japanese Brands: Sofina
(Read about my personal take on Sofina.)

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Product Review: A Wash of Color — Erth Minerals

by PJ on Wednesday, August 1, 2007

in makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - foundation, makeup - base makeup - powder, makeup - eyeshadow, mineral makeup

(Clockwise from upper left:
Erth Minerals Foundation in 2.3
Eyeshadows in Fern, Night, and Snow
Bronzer in Glow,
Eyeshadows in Rose and Carbon )

More and more mineral makeup lines have been trying to grab a share of the market, apart from major players like Bare Escentuals. Erth Minerals (not “Earth”, to be clear…) is one of them.

Their website describes their foundations as matte and offering excellent coverage, which attracted my attention. After trying them out, I actually wouldn’t describe them as either. They are semi-matte and provide medium (on the sheer side) coverage. There is no obvious shimmer and the finish is all very natural.

For me personally, one drawback is the staying powder. On my oily skin, the foundation started to melt in about two hours (in the less-than-warm British summer). I would not recommend this for people with oily skin or with oily T-zone.

On the other hand, Moth Veil is a good finishing powder for me. Soft and silky, it mattifies my skin and conceals pores nicely (after my usual foundation). Only one shade is available, but I think it is translucent enough to suit most skin-tones.

Their eyeshadows work nicely on me too (I don’t have particularly oily eyelids). All the shades I’ve got are sheer and with multi-color sparkles. My favorites are Snow (pearly white), Rose (very pale pink), and Carbon (dark charcoal, can be doubled as an eyeliner). The sparkles make Snow and Carbon particularly beautiful, while Carbon is great for the smoky-eye look.

I need to point out that the eyeshadow in Night, which appears to be a pastel blue in the container (seen in the photo), looks almost completely grey when applied. Even though the website describes the shade as “deep blue”, it is just too much of an ashy grey to be called blue. This can make on-line ordering confusing.

Since it is also the case with von Natur Lip Shimmer in Sweet Violet (a rosy purple in the container, a brownish brick-red when applied), I wonder whether the blue pigment used in mineral makeup in general is simply not delivering. (I have never experienced this kind of color inconsistency with brands not marketed as mineral makeup.) If you have any similar experience, I would very much like to know about it.

On the whole, mineral makeup, with its simple composition, does not irritate my sensitive skin, but it takes much longer to apply. No surprise, it is the case with Erth Minerals. If you want your foundation to give you a good coverage and your colors to be vibrant, you might need to look elsewhere. But if you prefer your makeup to be sheer and natural (and with shimmer for the eyes), then Erth Minerals will be worth considering.

Related posts:
Von Natur Mineral Powder Foundation
Von Natur Mineral Color Makeup

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"An Unprecedented Masterpiece": SUQQU Clear Veil Powder

by PJ on Wednesday, June 13, 2007

in -SUQQU, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - powder

(SUQQU Clear Veil Powder)
(photo from www.suqqu.com/japan.html)

I have mentioned innovation in Japanese cosmetics last week in another post. Today I am talking about another product exemplifying this.

SUQQU’s Clear Veil Powder, launch in fall 2006, has created a sensation. “Magical”, “unbelievable”, “shocking”, and “an unprecedented masterpiece” are some of the expressions that Japanese beauty experts used to describe this finishing pressed powder (Frau magazine, November 2006).

What is unprecedented about this pressed powder is that each powder particle is see-through. Yes, we’ve all used loose powder that is translucent and doe not add color, but this one is almost totally “transparent”.

You can see that there seems to be the word “SUQQU” on the powder. But the word is in fact indented at the bottom of the tin case holding the pressed powder. It is for the sole purpose of showcasing this ingenious innovation.

It is able to mattify and smooth the skin without making it chalky. The powder particles are transparent so the face simply won’t look chalky.

Primers are a huge business in Japanese cosmetics, and there have been many innovative products. I would imagine SUQQU’s Clear Veil Powder is a silicone-based mattifying liquid primer — in pressed powder form and used as a finishing powder. If this is the case, I’d call it a post-primer. (I know it is sort of an oxymoron, but I am sure you get the idea.) Since it is applied after the foundation (unlike a primer of course), it has the potential of giving (and keeping) a really even, smooth, and matte appearance.

I haven’t actually tried it, but the people at the SUQQU counter in Selfridges in London told me a couple of months ago that it might appear in the UK in the coming fall. I am very excited about this! If I do get to try it, I will follow this up with another report.

Updated on April 24th 2009:

Please check out the review of Clear Veil Powder here.

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My Foundation Routine

by PJ on Wednesday, March 21, 2007

in -Kanebo, -Kao, -Lavshuca, -Sofina, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - foundation, makeup - base makeup - powder, stash focus

As requested by a reader, I am going to talk about my daily foundation routine.

Every foundation product I use is in powder form (loose or pressed). I have oily skin, and anything liquidy or creamy (liquid foundation, creamy concealer,…) doesn’t stay on very well.

I try to make everything simple. I almost never use a primer. I only use a daytime moisturizer with sunscreen (like Estee Lauder DayWear Plus for Oily Skin SPF 15). Then:

1. I put on my ZA 2-way foundation (pictured mid-left).

Well, 70% of the time, that’s actually it. But if I want a more polished look:

2. I put on some transparent loose powder. My favorite two at the moment are from Raycious (mid-right) and Lavshuca (top). They are both very good in disguising pores. They both have minimal shimmer but it is barely visible on the face. Or I use Raycious pressed powder (bottom-left), which is completely matte.

Occasionally, if I need to conceal a pimple (here comes the big trick):

3. I use Raycious powder foundation (bottom-right) as a concealer with the corner of a rectangular sponge and gently press the powder onto a breakout. The light-defusing particles in Raycious powder foundations (especially the earliest generations) are fantastic for precision concealing. Not only is the redness covered, the shadow around the bump is instantly less visible (so the pimple looks much flattened). I want the powder to stay absolutely put on my breakout so it is applied last.

(This trick works wonder for my friends as well when I help them with makeup.)

My suggestion is to always take time doing the foundation. The foundation from a rushed application never stays on well. Taking time and doing everything slowly, gently, and carefully makes a huge difference, even with exactly the same products. (My routine is straightforward enough so it takes 10 minutes from 1 to 3, but I always make sure I don’t rush things through.)

My next post will be about some favorite cosmetics products as voted by Japanese consumers.

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