-Kanebo

(Selfridges, Oxford Street London)
(image from www.selfridges.com)

After shopping in Tokyo and Taipei for the past two weeks, today we are flying long-haul to London.

I have to say that, personally, purely in terms of beauty shopping, London can’t really compete with Tokyo or Taipei. But it is one of my favorite cities and it does still have plenty to offer when it comes to beauty.

– WHERE TO GO –

If you have One Day

Oxford Street is your best bet, particularly Selfridges Department Store (Bond Street or Marble Arch Underground Station), which I think has the best beauty department in the UK. Apart from almost all the high-end brands (including one of the few Giorgio Armani counters in the UK), it also has a good selection of Japanese brands, such as Shiseido (carrying the usual lines sold in the west), SK II, RMK, and SUQQU. (The SUQQU counter is the only one outside Asia, and three RMK counters in the UK (Selfridges London, Selfridges Trafford Centre Manchester, and House of Fraser Glasgow) are the only ones outside Asia as well.)

If you have more time, head towards the nearby Boots store (on the other side of Oxford Street and slightly more towards Oxford Circus). It is a great place to browse through mid-range and budget British beauty lines, such as Ruby & Millie as well as Boots’ own No. 7, 17, and Natural Collection.

One Weekend

– You can stay on Oxford Street. There are several more department stores further towards Oxford Circus. Debenhams has a great fragrance department, while House of Fraser has a ck Calvin Klein counter. For those of you in Asia where Smashbox is not easily available, John Lewis has a Smashbox counter.

– In the Knightsbridge area (Knightsbridge Station), you can find both Harrods and Harvey Nichols. Apart from probably the best fragrance department in the UK, Harrods also has one of the remaining Kanebo International counters (carrying the Sensai line) in the UK. Over in Harvey Nichols, you can find Chanel Studios, featuring Chanel makeup and skincare items exclusive to the North American and Asian markets. (I have seen many Japan-exclusives there over the years.)

One Week

– If you are a beauty fan and have a few days in London, why not indulge in a British beauty experience? Some of the brands might be available where you are, but I think the experience will be more unique. Apart from the very widely known The Body Shop and Lush, try Eve Lom, Liz Earle, Neal’s Yard Remedies, Penhaligon’s, Jo Malone, Molton Brown, Culpepper, and Floris. (Please check the websites for store locations.)

– Try one of the Space NK boutiques to be surrounded by high-end beauty brands like Chantecaille, By Terry, Darphin and Jurlique. There is a Space NK concession in Harvey Nichols as well.

– If you would like to test out items from Paul & Joe, you can either visit Harrods or Fenwick (Bond Street Station). I’d suggest the counter in Fenwick, which is wider and airier. (The concession in Harrods is currently more of a shelf than a counter.)

– If you are a fan of Japanese cosmetics but don’t usually have easy access to Japanese beauty magazines like Biteki and Voce, do definitely head to JP-Books in Mitsukoshi London and the book shop in Japan Centre. Both are literally seconds away from the busy Piccadilly Station and stock all the major Japanese beauty and fashion magazines. The locations of these two are so central that there is almost no excuse not to have a quick look if you want to check out the latest beauty products and makeup looks from Japanese as well as international beauty brands.

(By the way, the food section of Japan Centre carries lovely (and affordable) bento boxes, which are some of the yummiest and healthiest meal options while you are out and about in London.)

– WHEN TO GO –

I think a good time to go to London for beauty shopping is during the summer/winter sale period. (The summer sale starts in late June and most stores start the winter sale on December 27.)

During the sale period, many high-end brands have about 30% discount (and sometimes 50%) on surplus stock, soon-to-be-discontinued items, and past limited-edition items. (Last year, I was able to purchase Paul & Joe’s Light Cream Foundation, Face Powder and Pressed Powder at 50% off at Harrods and Fenwick. Also, a couple of weeks ago, I saw YSL’s silver makeup palette from last year’s holiday collection in Harrods and a few items from Guerlain’s Pucci summer 2007 collection in Harvey Nichols.)

Also, I have seen brands like YSL and Guerlain start carrying new fall/spring collections during the summer/winter sale period (particularly in top-end department stores like Harrods, Harvey Nichols, and Selfridges). These exclusive releases can sometimes be slightly earlier than those in North America and Asia.

– NOTE –

– Just like Japan and Taiwan, opened and used beauty items are usually not refundable.

– Check out this post from Kiss & Makeup for a list of British beauty brands.

– One of the best resources for beauty shopping in London is TimeOut London’s Shops & Services guide (9.99 GBP for the 2008 edition, currently on sale on TimeOut’s website). It is updated annually and the latest edition usually comes out in November.

It covers virtually everything you need to know if one of the reasons for your London trip is to shop. (It is also helpful if you are going to live in London for any period of time.) The Health & Beauty section covers beauty stores, perfumeries, salons, spas, and hairdressers, and all the practical details are listed. (It should be available in most major bookstores in the UK. I think it is worth having even as a souvenir for your one-off London shopping extravaganza.)

This concludes my mini-series on Beauty City Guide, at least for the time being, I hope. I have been to other places like Paris and Hong Kong, but I don’t think I know enough at the moment to bring you my personal recommendations. Hope one day I’ll be able to share my thoughts with you! (But do please e-mail me if you would like a few quick suggestions.)

Related Posts:

Beauty Phenomenon: Seasonal Sale on Cosmetics in the UK

Japanese Beauty Brands in the UK

Japanese Brand Profile – SUQQU

Can’t Live Without – RMK Cleansing Oil N

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(Coffret D’Or Trance Deep Eyes in Rose Variation)

Coffret D’Or‘s Trance Deep Eyes range, released in June, is the second eye palette series after the successful 3D Lighting Eyes. I have been pleased with my two 3D Lighting Eyes palettes (in Purple and Gold Variation) so the new range is a must-try for me.

Rose Variation is essentially a warm-pink palette with an aubergine lining shade. The four shades are (clock-wise from the lightest):

A off-white with shimmer (sheer, mildly shimmery)
B warm dusty pink with pearly shimmer (moderately pigmented, shimmery)
C dark aubergine with sparse shimmer (well-pigmented, luminous matte under the sparse shimmer)
D off-white pink with shimmer (moderately pigmented, very sparkly)

(All the shimmering particles are multi-colored. All shades have good staying powder.)

The cases are the same as those of the 3D Lighting Eye palettes, and, again, the instructions are printed on the back of the outer packaging:

(Please click on the image for a larger version.)

The main difference between the instructions of 3D Lighting Eyes and those of Trance Deep Eyes is that the second lightest shade in Trance Deep Eyes is applied all over the lid, not just towards the inner corner (as in 3D Lighting Eyes).

(image from www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/coffretdor)

When I saw the colors in person for the first time, I thought the dusty pink looked very similar to the pink in Purple Variation. (I was somewhat expecting this when I saw the new palettes on the official website.) However, even though they do look very similar in the containers, the one in Rose Variation goes on warmer. It is also more subtle. (The pink hue does not show up very much under warm artificial lighting.)

When I follow the instructions, the overall finish is quite sparkly, largely down to the very shimmery/sparkly off-white pink applied over the lids. Even when I only apply it towards the inner corner of the eyes, I think the look can still be a little too sparkly for daytime (when I prefer a very softly shimmery look).

Color-wise, the white base shade (A) and the off-white pink (D) go on almost the same, as they only differ in the amount of shimmer. Therefore, I don’t think Rose Variation is as versatile as Purple Variation, which also creates more dimension for the eyes. But I’d think Rose Variation is probably the most wearable palette (out of the four Coffret D’Or palettes I currently have) for most people, as it is very hard to go wrong with these shades.

Between Purple and Rose Variation, I prefer Purple Variation, which has the beautiful combination of dusty pink and cool lilac. Also, the finish is subtly shimmery rather than sparkly. But if you like beaming sparkles and are not happy with what you get from 3D Lighting Eyes, the Trance Deep Eyes range might be worth a look.

I will be reviewing Grey Variation later this month.

Related Posts:

Fluffy Shine Eyes from Coffret D’Or’s Fall 2008 Collection

Coffret D’Or Full Styling Rouge Lipsticks

Foundation Face-Off – Lunasol vs. Coffret D’Or

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(Coffret D’Or Fall 2008 Base Makeup Collection)
(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)

On September 1st, Coffret D’Or will release its fall 2008 base makeup collection in Japan. The lineup includes:

Beauty Essence Pact (7 shades, SPF 23 PA++)
Gel Foundation (7 shades, SPF 17 PA++)
Beauty Essence Veil (primer)
Makeup Pressed Powder (1 shade)
Blend Color Blush (3 shades)

(Like the case for the powder foundation, the case and the puff for Makeup Pressed Powder and the case for Blend Color Blush (the same as the one for the pressed powder) are sold separately.)

So far I have been enjoying the two spring/summer base makeup items I tried (Beauty Lasting Pact UV and Makeup Powder, which I will review later this month). Among the new lineup, I am interested in the pressed powder and the blusher. I haven’t tried any new blusher from a Japanese brand for a while, and I am looking forward to seeing the other two shades. Hopefully these blushers are softly matte and not too shimmery for me.

Related Posts:

Sofina Primavista – New Base Makeup Line

L’Oréal True Match Super-Blendable Powder

The New Thierry Mugler Makeup Line
(featuring Bleu Glacis Cooling Effect Concealer)

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I used to like gold more as a (glamorous and opulent) makeup packaging color scheme than as a shade to be worn. But I have tried a couple of gold-toned eye palettes this summer, and I have been enjoying seeing how various shades of gold can do for my eyes.

It seems that gold will be leading the makeup trend for fall and winter 2008, and I think there will be more dazzling hues of gold all the way through the holiday season.

Base
Anna Sui Fluid Foundation
Majolica Majorca Skin Remake Powder Foundation
Versace Concealer & Highlighter Duo

Eyes
Coffret D’Or 3D Lighting Eyes in Gold Variation
Lavshuca Summer Gradually Compact in Shiny Sandy Beach
Elégance Purity Eyes 11

Cheeks
Anna Sui Face Color Stick 302

Lips
Dior Sparkling Lip Gloss Duo
YSL Golden Gloss 03 Golden Pink

Multi-purposed
Dior Golden Dior Luminizing Makeup Jewel
YSL Gold Celebration Palette “Star Glow”

Fragrance
Dior J’Adore Eau de Parfum

Other splashes of color:

Lilting Lilac (Part 1 and 2)

Terrific Turquoise

Citrus Orange

Aqua Blue

New-Leaf Green

Girlie Pink

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(image from www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/coffretdor)

The Coffret D’Or website has been updated to include information on the items which will be released on July 16.

The two new makeup looks happen to feature my favorite shades at the moment, lilac and golden beige! (I love the color of Tokiwa Takako’s (left) dress as well.)

You can see the two TV commercials here.

Related Posts:

Coffret D’Or 3D Lighting Eyes Purple Variation

Coffret D’Or 3D Lighting Eyes Gold Variation

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(I have been testing them as you are reading this post…)

It is a little hard to believe that half of 2008 is almost gone. (I feel that this year has just begun a couple of months ago and that we are still taking about spring collections…) But here is what to look out for in July:

– If you have been gathering reviews of the new Coffret D’Or Trance Deep Eyes palettes, do come back in July. I will bring you reviews of 01 Rose Variation and 04 Grey Variation. I will also review Coffret D’Or’s loose powder. (It’s a keeper!)

– You will be seeing a new three-part series, Beauty City Mini-Guide. Since I often receive e-mails from readers asking for suggestions on beauty shopping when travelling, I have decided to present some of my personal experiences as blog articles. Each of them will focus on one particular city.

If you would like to make sure you don’t miss any of these future posts, please consider subscribing to my blog via e-mail or a feed reader. Thank you very much!

Tomorrow: Review of items from NARS Cosmetics

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(continued from Part 1 and 2)

3. Dior

(Dior’s summer 2008 makeup collection)
(from Biteki, June 2008, p. 138)

Dior’s summer 2008 lineup has a very coherent look, as warm hues dominate the collection. Even though I am not particularly fond of very warm neutrals, I generally like collections with a strong identity.

I decided to get the Golden Dior Makeup Jewel (in Lamé Pink), which looks as good as it appears on all the magazine pages.

The look of the 5-Color Eyeshadow palette in 589 (the lower one in the photo above), but the finish of almost all the shades is too metallic for my liking. If you like metallic finishes, many of Dior’s recent eye palettes would be must-sees. But I do hope Dior would cut back on intense shimmer just a little bit and go back to the more satiny and softly shimmery finishes.

2. Lavshuca


(Summer Gradually Compact in Windy Aqua Beach)
(image from www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/lavshuca)

(Summer Gradually Compact in Shiny Sandy Beach)
(image from www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/lavshuca)

With two very nicely packaged six-color eye palettes for summer 2008, Lavshuca consolidated its position as a drugstore-brand princess for me. (The collection also features two new shades of Rouge Essence Bar.)

Some of you were surprised (and rightly so) that I went for the neutral Shiny Sandy Beach rather than the cool-toned Windy Aqua Beach. (Hmm…some of you seem to know my makeup likes and dislikes very well…) I was in a short neutral phase earlier (which is gradually coming to an end now), and I did need to add more medium neutrals to my collection.

I was very happy with this palette, since I like soft medium neutrals that are not overly pigmented (or overly warm). I particularly like the shades second and third from the right. (Please check out the link above for my review.)

1. Lunasol

(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)

To me, in the last few seasons, Lunasol’s makeup collections appear to be invincible. Superb quality, stunning colors, and a clear story behind every collection.

Lunasol’s Summer 2008 collection continues the “Color Purification” theme with inspiration from colorful corals of the sea. The shades look bouncy and vibrant but still wearable. The collection features the Bronze Coral palette, but it is not ruled by neutrals.

I have the Sheer Contrast Eyes in Lavender Coral from the spring 2008 lineup, which I adore, and I don’t plan to pick up palettes from this collection. But I am quite interested in the Full Glamour Gloss in EX-01 (fourth from the bottom in the photo above, a limited edition). But I will have to act fast if I do decide to get it, since Lunasol’s limited-edition items for summer do tend to sell out.

You can see reviews of items from this collection on Autumn Masquerade and Lotus Palace. For swatches, please check out this post.

My summer top 10 brands’ fall 2008 offerings:

Lunasol

Lavshuca

Twany Glamacy

Cosme Decorte AQ

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(Kanebo Freeplus)
(image from www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/freeplus/)

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Very early on (in my post Japanese vs. Western), I have mentioned that even though I have a passion for Japanese makeup products, I don’t particularly prefer Japanese skincare products over western ones. My biggest complaint is that many Japanese toners and moisturizers have alcohol and that some have way too much of it. This is why Kanebo‘s Freeplus seems like a welcome breath of fresh air to me.

Freeplus is a mid-range skincare line sold at the Kanebo counter (in Japan and some other Asian regions), alongside many other skincare lines targeted at different needs and age groups. The line appeals to people with sensitive skin which reacts negatively to common irritants.

(Shiseido’s equivalent (skincare line for sensitive skin) is d program.) The line also features base makeup products.

According to the brand’s website, the name “Freeplus” represents the two major aspects of the products:

FREE“:

All products are free from parabens, fragrance, and chemical sunscreen ingredients, and most (skincare) products are free from alcohol, colourants, and mineral oil. (The four products that still have alcohol are Fresh Soap Bar, Acne Spots, UV Day Protector, and UV Body Protector.)

PLUS“:

The products are formulated with six oriental herbal extracts (Chinese date (jujube), citrus unshiu peel, cape jasmine (gardenia jasminoides, also known as gardenia florida)), Japanese honeysuckle, peach kernel, and job’s tears). They are supposed to moisturize the skin and support its protective barrier. (These claims are mainly for your reference, since beauty companies make all kinds of claims, some of which have no scientific backup. But a brief mention of cape jasmine follows below.)

The item I have tried from Freeplus is Comfortable Lotion 1, which is a toner for combination and oily skin. It is colorless and has a near-water consistency which is very mildly emollient. It is one of the most calming and soothing toners I have used ever since I started using skincare products (along with Lancôme Tonique Douceur, Shu Uemura Refreshing Lotion (discontunued), and AYURA Balancing Primer AF1 (also discontinued)).

One thing worth mentioning is that the fragrance in the herbal extracts mentioned above seems to have been removed during the manufacturing process, as the toner doesn’t have any scent. This is good for people with sensitive skin, as fragrance (artificial or natural, such as that in fragrant plant oils like lavender oil) can be a possible skin irritant. (According to Paula Begoun, gardenia florida extract can be an antioxidant but its fragrant component can be irritating for some. Based on the (lack of) perceivable scent, it seems to me that most of the fragrant components in the plant extracts in the products have been removed.)

The Comfortable Loiton 1 is now called Barrier Repair Lotion 1 and the packaging differs very slightly. I have not tried this, but I believe it should be virtually the same product. The main traits and the plant extracts used remain the same.

For the past few years, in terms of skincare, I try to use what is available here in the UK. (It is much easier to keep everything in stock. Plus I get to earn Boots points.) But when I go to Japan next time, I think I will definitely pick up Barrier Lotion 1 and perhaps some other Freeplus products.

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Updated on July 14th, 2008:

You can read a review of Freeplus’ loose powder on Autumn Masquerade.

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Updated on November 16th, 2011:

Information on Freeplus’ skincare renewal.

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Recent Beauty Focus Posts:

Elégance

Sony Vecua

Sonia Rykiel

 

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(part of Lissage’s fall 2008 collection)
(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)

The currently Kanebo-owned Lissage was launched in 1992 and remained a predominantly skincare-focused (high-end) brand. (The pricings are similar to Lunasol’s.) Last fall, the brand went through a revamp and a readjustment of brand focus, and its products have been getting more print media coverage in Japan.

(Lissage Ltd. also owns ECM and Bath Tours. I will post more detailed brand profiles of Lissage and ECM later on.)

On August 16th, Lissage will launch its fall 2008 makeup collection, which includes:

Nuance Fit Eyes (eye palette): 4 variations
Long Curl Mascara: 1 shade
Long Curl Mascara Base: 1 shade
Contrast Eyeliner: 2 shades
Slim Eyebrow: 3 shades
Creamy Fit Rouge: 6 shades
Lip Base Liner: 3 shades
Lip Repair Serum
Blush Veil: 2 new shades

(The holders of Contrast Eyeliner, Slim Eyebrow and Lip Base Liner refills are sold separately.)

(Lissage Blush Veil for spring 2008)
(image from www.lissage.jp)

Many Japanese makeup lines are quite specific about the consumers they are trying to appeal to. Somewhat similar to Twany Glamacy, the Lissage point makeup line focuses on understated basics that suit makeup-wearing consumers in corporate settings in Japan that tend to go for clean and low-key colors (as well as packaging).

Items of these two brands might not look as impressive on magazine pages as those from the dreamy Jill Stuart and the trend-setting Dior, but I think they do have a reasonably wide appeal to those who (have to) wear makeup on a daily basis but don’t necessarily use makeup to express themselves in certain sterile office environments. If you regularly stock up trust-worthy essentials, this line is worth following up on.

Fall 2008 collections from other Kanebo-owned brands/lines:

CHICCA

Lavshuca

Kate

Coffret D’Or (early fall 2008 collection)

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(part from Lunasol’s fall 2008 collection)
(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)

Many of Lunasol‘s past makeup collection themes are based on the idea of “purification”. So far, we’ve had:

“Scent Purification” for fall 2006 (Scent Form Eyes)
“Brilliance Purification” for fall 2007 (Geminate Eyes)
“Color Purification” for spring 2008 (Sheer Contrast Eyes)

The clear brand philosophy and the individual yet coherent seasonal makeup themes are what set Lunasol apart from the other Japanese makeup brands, and their brand image has always been very appealing to me.

For fall 2008, it will be all about red, as Lunasol brings us the theme “Red Purification“. For a change, Lunasol’s latest collection will focus on the lips, and 16 red lipsticks take center stage.

All the items are brand new and are not new shades added to the existing items. The full Lunasol fall 2008 lineup includes:

Full Glamour Lips S: 16 shades
Contrasting W Lip Liners: 2 shades
Noble Shade Eyes: 5 variations
Noble Shade Liner: 3 shades
Brow Styling Compact: 2 variations
Coloring Cheeks: 2 shades (refill only, case and applicator sold separately)

Apart from the color makeup items, the fall lineup will also include Nuance Change Foundation B (2 shades), which is supposed to be Lunasol’s equivalent of YSL’s Touche Éclat. The new skincare addition will be Lip Essence, with SPF 20 and PA+.

The collection will be launched in Japan on August 22nd.

I would describe this collection as both classic and edgy, with beautiful red lipsticks and rather bold red-toned eyeshadows. (It seems that each of the five Noble Shade Eyes palette will feature a shade of red.) I am really looking forward to seeing how these red eyeshadow shades will be worn on models in Japanese makeup magazines. Also, for those who look for the ultimate red lipstick, this collection is worth a serious look.

This seems to be another seasonal makeup collection from Lunasol that has a tremendously unique identity, and I think Japanese makeup fans will remember this collection for a long time.

I will update this post when I come across more information.

Updated on July 24th, 2008:

The Lunasol website has been updated
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Updated on August 21st, 2008:

Please check out this link for swatches of nearly all the items from Lunasol’s fall 2008 collection, including all the eye palettes, lipsticks, blushers, and eyeliners (from a Lunasol press event in Taiwan).

Other Posts on Lunasol:

Lunasol Summer 2008 Collection

Lunasol Full Glamour Gloss in Bright Pink

Loving Japanese Brands – Lunasol

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