_Japanese Brand Profile

Capturing Your Emotional Beauty

by PJ on Sunday, February 24, 2008

in _Japanese Brand Profile, -Est, -Kao, -Sofina, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup

(a tearful diva)
(image from www.kao.co.jp/est)

A reader once asked me why, regardless of the generally consistent quality, certain Japanese makeup lines (under the same company) are more expensive than others. To summarize my answer for her, apart from the fact that price-points and target consumer groups define each other, more prestigious makeup lines tend to have a fuller philosophy behind their creations.

One prime example is Sofina EST.

Sofina‘s EST is not new. It has been a skincare line under Kao’s Sofina for many years, and it is Sofina’s most expensive line. In fall 2007, EST launched a full color makeup line, following the earlier debut of the base makeup range. (While, obviously, the brand name reminds people of the superlative suffix “-est”, Sofina also advocates that it is an acronym for “Essence of Sofina Technology”.)

The over-arching concept of EST’s color makeup is Emotional Beauty. As our faces are always displaying various feelings and emotions, EST attempts to use colors and finishes to enhance our day-to-day expressions of emotions. So, our beaming smiles look even more dazzling, our focused determination is even more infectious, and our sorrow melts the hardest of hearts.

(image from www.kao.co.jp/est)


I love EST’s recent ad images. They are beautifully and subtly compelling, with colors that enhance the facial features rather than overtake them. To embody the essence of the line, the model (April) displays a much wider range of emotions than what we usually see in makeup advertisements. The image on the top of this post is by far my favorite. As for the two below, I call them “despair & hope”:

(image from www.kao.co.jp/est)

(image from www.kao.co.jp/est)

However, all this ethos will be hollow if it can’t translate to product designs. So how does EST carry out their promise?

One item that defines the line is Emotional Aura Pact. Essentially, this is a highlighter for the eye area. It includes four subtly different shades of various finishes and opaqueness, and each of them is used on a specific part of the eye area.

(Emotional Aura Pack)
(image from www.kao.co.jp/est)


Apart from the eye area, this multi-purpose item can also be used around the lips to sculpt your pout. So, when you feel surprised, happy, curious, excited, inspired, or moved, this item is designed to capture your million faces and help them make a lasting impression.

Also, so far, I have come across good comments on Emotional Aura Eyes, the eye palette range:

(Emotional Aura Eyes palettes)
(image from www.kao.co.jp/est)


After the huge success of Kanebo’s Lunasol in the last couple of years, Kosé’s Magie Deco and Sofina’s EST were two of the major makeup launches in late 2007 that posed as rivals. Similarly priced and packaged with a sophisticated flair, they appeal to similar demographics. With a strong and distinctive concept behind it, Sofina EST’s development and evolution will be immensely interesting to chart and will serve as an indication of the future of Japanese cosmetics.

[Even though Sofina is available in Japan and several other countries in Asia, the EST line is currently only available in Japan as far as I know. The EST website is for information only and does not offer on-line ordering.]

Related Posts:

Loving Japanese Brands – Lunasol
(my current favorite Japanese brand)

Brand Profile: SUQQU
(a reverse strategy that works)

Coffret D’Or 3D Lighting Eyes
(replacing the beloved T’Estimo)

{ 13 comments }

Cult Product in the Making: Mamew Mascara Kit

by PJ on Thursday, February 7, 2008

in _Japanese Brand Profile, -Mamew, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup - mascara

(Mamew brand logo)
(image from www.mamew.jp)

It was estimated several years ago that there were between 3000 and 4000 cosmetics companies in Japan (from Textbook on Beauty, by Kaoru Saito). What we see in major Japanese cosmetics magazines is only a very small selection of them, and it is always interesting to see a new brand on the magazine pages.

Launched in October 2007, Mamew is a fairly new brand but it has been featured in major Japanese cosmetics magazines like Biteki and Voce as well as top fashion magazines like Vogue Nippon.

 

(the very minimally packaged Mamew Lineup)
(image from www.mamew.jp)

What attracted the attention of these magazines are Mamew’s Mascara Kits (two versions: Volume Curl and Long Lash).

(Mamew Mascara Kit)
(image from www.mamew.co.jp)

The mascara liquid and the brush are packaged separately, and each application involves putting the mascara onto the brush (just like putting toothpaste on a toothbrush, I suppose).

(image from www.mamew.co.jp)

You might think this is a lot of trouble, but here are the unique strengths of this product (from the Mamew website):

1. You can have more control of how much pigment goes onto the brush.

2. You can curl the lashes and keep the curl more effectively with the blush made with dense natural hair.

3. You can benefit from a fresh application every time by cleansing the brush after each use.

4. You can enjoy an easier application with the slim brush handle.

Apart from these, I think the unused mascara will probably remain moist longer. Also, this seems to be an updated version of the most traditional mascaras with a brush picking up the black pigment.

Judging by the increasing level of press interest, Mamew’s Mascara Kit has a potential to be a cult beauty item in Japan.

(Mamew is currently sold in Japan only, and the website’s on-line ordering service opens to residents in Japan.)

Related Posts:

“Loving Japanese Brands” Series
(my sensational seven)

Lash Out! – by Laura Mercier
(featuring mascaras from Dior, YSL, and Max Factor)

You Mean That’s NOT Real?
(What do you think?)

{ 10 comments }

New Brand Launch: Kanebo CHICCA

by PJ on Wednesday, January 23, 2008

in _Japanese Brand Profile, -Chicca, -Kanebo, all about Japanese cosmetics

(Kanebo CHICCA counter design)
(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)

(the classy detail of the packaging)
(image from www.chicca.jp)


On March 5, Kanebo will launch a new brand, CHICCA (pronounced “kikka”), which will have its own counters in department stores in Japan.

The brand image will be minimalistic and sophisticated.

Targeted at a more mature clientèle, CHICCA will be one of the most high-end brands under the Kanebo Company. In the makeup line, a lipstick will retail at around 50 USD and the pressed powder will retail at around 98 USD in Japan.

(CHICCA’s debut base and color makeup lineup)
(image from www.chicca.jp)

(CHICCA’s debut skincare lineup)
(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)

(part of the color makeup lineup)
(image from www.chicca.jp)

Following the debut of Coffret D’Or last December, this will be another important move from Kanebo, which was not doing very well financially and was purchased by Kao in early 2006. It would be interesting to see how CHICCA competes with other top-end brands in the future.

Updated on January 28, 2008:

CHICCA’s official website has been launched.

Photos of the details of the compact design and part of the color makeup lineup have been added above.

The brand is gradually appealing to me more and more. The Enthralling Powder Eye Shadow (particularly the duo in #02, beautifully named Chiffon Lavender Dress) and Flush Blush (a cream blusher) are just two of the items that have caught my eye.

(CHICCA Enthralling Powder Eye Shadow
and Flush Blush)
(images from www.chicca.jp)

Related Posts:

SUQQU: Sensuality with an Attitude
(another major high-end brand in Japan)

All About Japanese Cosmetics
(Can’t have enough of them…)

Loving Japanese Brands
(Read about my 7 favorite Japanese brands.)

{ 2 comments }

Kanebo Coffret D’Or Spring 2008 Collection

by PJ on Wednesday, November 21, 2007

in _Japanese Brand Profile, -Coffret d'Or, -Kanebo, 2008 Spring, all about Japanese cosmetics

(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)

Kanebo’s Coffret D’Or will be releasing a new line of lip colors as part of the spring 2008 collection on January 16, 2008.

The dual-purpose lip colors include a slim lipstick that doubles as a subtle lip liner to define the lip shape as well as a liquid lip color to add shine and dimension to the lips.

If you like your makeup items to be multi-purposed and ultra-compact, then these might be worth looking into.

(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)

Kanebo’s Coffret D’Or is replacing the color makeup line T’Estimo and the base makeup line Revue. The brand image is elegant and understated but perhaps not as eye-popping as some would hope. But it is still very early days and it would be very interesting to see how the brand evolves.

(part of the Coffret D’Or lineup)
(image from www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/coffretdor)

A couple of years ago, when Shiseido’s Maquillage replaced the very successful PN (the color makeup line that injected an air of youth into Shiseido’s then aging brand image) and Proudia (the base makeup line), it was believed that many PN fans had grown up and wanted something more mature and sophisticated. As the drugstore line “ff” was discontinued at the same time, it was also suspected that Shiseido wanted to experiment with the concept of “Super Brand” to better define Shiseido’s image, instead of too many lines with various price and retail points.

Kanebo is apparently doing something similar, as Coffret D’Or’s image at the moment is much more sedate and grown-up than T’Estimo’s. It actually bears a slight resemblance to the beautifully packaged Lunasol (also by Kanebo), although I think Lunasol still has a better edge.

I have started to wonder if other major brands like Kose and Sofina will follow this trend…

Related Posts:

Lunasol Spring 2008 collection
(Loving the eyeshadows…)

T’Estimo Frame Impact Eyes Palette
(So long, T’Estimo!)

{ 9 comments }

Magie Deco Holiday 2007 Collection

by PJ on Wednesday, November 7, 2007

in _Japanese Brand Profile, -Cosme Decorte, -Kosé, -Magie Deco, 2007 Holiday, makeup, makeup - base makeup

(Romantic Illuminate:
Magie Deco Holiday 2007 Collection)
(image from www.cosmedecorte.com/magiedeco/)

Kosé’s top-end line, Cosme Decorte, released a new makeup line in August called Magie Deco. Price-wise, it is cheaper than Cosme Decorte’s existing makeup collections but it is still a high-end line.

Naturally, these are Magie Deco’s first limited-edition seasonal items, and they are certainly keen to make an impression.

The two items, Shadow Brilliance and Face Powder, are sold as a set. As with many other holiday items for Japanese brands, they feature wearable and shimmery shades, great for the party season. (I think the Face Powder will be a straightforward sheer face powder with some shimmer.)

I really like the prints on one of the eyeshadows and on the gold lid of the Face Powder case. Feminine, flowy, and glamorous.

Magie Deco’s sophisticated brand image has been grabbing more and more of my attention. This is certainly a line I will pay attention to in the coming seasons and it will be very interesting to see how it develops.

Related posts:

Magie Deco Loose Powder
(one of the shortlisted items on my loose powder list)

Holiday 2007 Collection Galore
(photos and more photos…)

Holiday 2007 Collection: First Thoughts
(after I saw some of the items in the shops)

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Kate — Lavshuca’s Edgier, Darker Sister

by PJ on Wednesday, July 25, 2007

in _Japanese Brand Profile, -Kanebo, -Kate, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup

I can’t take credit for this description of Kate, Kanebo‘s consistently successful drugstore line.

One reader, Tammy, left a comment under one of my posts on Lavshuca and asked about Kate. She described Kate as “Lavshuca’s edgier, darker sister“. (Both are Kanebo’s “daughters”.)

She couldn’t have put it any better!

But so far I have never bought anything from Kate. (I almost did for several times though.) Somehow the brand does not appeal to me. But, am I not edgy? Am I not dark enough for Kate??

Well, looking at my avatar….

.

(Well hello!)

…ummm……maybe not. (I do blush too easily!!)

Kate definitely has an edgier image (its slogan “No More Rules” sums it up), while Lavshuca is all very dreamy (yep that’s me). But Kate is also one of the most established and best-selling drugstore brands in Japan. It has a strong brand identity and has survived a lot of competition (against the new wave of drugstore brands such as Integrate, Kiss, Makemania and Love Clover).

You can see some of Kate’s TV commercials on YouTube to see how Kanebo is branding Kate.

Aside from the image, some of Kate’s popular items include:

Dual Carat eyeshadow duos
Deep Eyes N eyeshadow palettes
Line Spicy eyeshadow palettes
Glam Trick Eyes eyeshadow palettes
Super Sharp Liner eyeliners

When it comes to continuously releasing attention-grabbing items, I also have to hand it to Kate. The wide array of eyeshadow palettes and the recent cream eyeliner and loose eyeshadow have indeed given Kate that little extra (and almost semi-professional) edge. (I guess this is what I mean by product designs under one of my Anna Sui posts.)

So, have you tried anything from Kate? And what’s your favorite? Let me know!

I can be convinced!

.

Updated on December 31st, 2012:

Finally I purchased my first ever Kate item, Gradical Eyes A in GD-1!

{ 22 comments }

Brand Debut!! Shiseido’s Integrate Gracy

by PJ on Monday, July 23, 2007

in _Japanese Brand Profile, -Integrate, -Integrate Gracy, -Shiseido, 2007 Fall, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup

Shiseido’s Integrate Gracy will be one of the latest drugstore lines in Japan. (The logo is instantly recognizable as the sister brand of Integrate.)

Launched in Japan on August 21st, Integrate Gracy is targeted mainly at consumers in their 50’s, with understated packaging and timeless, elegant, and wearable colors. Also, all the products are fragrance-free, which can be a huge plus for people across all ages.

Integrate Gracy is not the first drugstore brand in Japan to specifically appeal to a more mature clientèle. Kanebo’s Evita (skincare and foundation) and Media (foundation and color makeup) are two examples. Now it’s Shiseido’s turn to add a new player.

The packaging is predominantly black and the overall look reminds me of Media and another of Shiseido’s drugstore lines, Selfit. I actually slightly prefer Integrate Gracy’s packaging to Integrate’s, which I think is painfully plain. (The case of Integrate Gracy’s loose powder looks simple and elegant.)

The line-up is vast and is actually larger than Integrate (launched in August 2006, targeting consumers in their 20’s and 30’s). It features a full range of foundation products, which Integrate does not have at the moment. It includes cream/liquid/powder foundation, primers, concealer, and loose/pressed powder. I think it is quite exciting.

The color makeup includes lipsticks, lip liners, blushers, eyeshadows, eyeliners, brow pencils, mascaras, and nail colors.

The target audience is very specific. But good prices and good quality are definitely for everyone!!

Source: Nikki Net

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(The Other) Budget Princess: Majolica Majorca

by PJ on Sunday, July 8, 2007

in _Japanese Brand Profile, -Majolica Majorca, -Shiseido, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - foundation, makeup - blusher, stash focus

(pictured: my Majolica Majorca foundation and blushers)

For me, there are two Japanese brands that combine ultra-princessy packaging and superb pocket-friendliness: (Kanebo’s) Lavshuca and (Shiseido’s) Majolica Majorca.

I haven’t really talked about Majolica Majorca very much because Lavshuca has really edged Majolica Majorca out for me in the last couple of seasons.

I do remember how excited I was when it was first launched in July 2003, which was way before some of my current favorites (like Lavshuca and Jill Stuart) took to the stage. At the time, packaging for Japanese drugstore lines was never about being maximally appealing…until Shiseido launched Majolica Majorca, which targeted consumers in their late teens and early twenties. (There were always lines with cute packaging, but they were never packaged to the point of being invincibly dreamy.)


Gold is the predominant color for most of the casings, with filigree patterns, emblems, words written in fancy styles, and other decorative details. It has a royal and antiquey feel, and it was all very cute and princessy.

Their liquid eyeliners and mascaras have always been very popular. As for me, I have got two of their blushers and a powder foundation.


Both blushers are medium to sheer. PK333 is a cool pink (similar to Lavshuca Cheek Color PK-1) and OR211 is a light orange. I prefer PK333 because OR211 is a bit too warm for me.

The two-way powder foundation (Skin Remake Compact) is quite different from the ZA two-way foundation (also made by Shiseido) that I have been using for years. Relatively, Majolica Majorca’s powder foundation has a more moist feel, has a slightly better coverage, but controls shine much less effectively. (Because it controls shine rather poorly, I only wear it when the weather is very cold.) But if your skin-type is combination or slightly dry, this might be a good choice for you as it does give a smooth and almost satiny finish.

Recently, Majolica Majorca’s packaging has not been appealing to me. I think it is because brands like Lavshuca and Jill Stuart are really pushing it in this area. Also, for me, the recent products are just a little less than exciting.

But I still want Majolica Majorca to wow me again!

I’d be interested to know your view of Majolica Majorca and your favorite Majolica Majorca products.

{ 34 comments }

Million Selling Lipgloss: Sony’s Curvy Lip Silicone

by PJ on Sunday, February 11, 2007

in _Japanese Brand Profile, -Makemania, -Sony, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - lip color, makeup - lip gloss, stash focus

(pictured: Sony CP Makemania
Curvy Lip Silicone)

First of all, yes it’s Sony. They do cosmetics in Japan! (Or rather, they own a company in Japan that carries many budget and premium cosmetics lines. Makemania, which carries this Curvy Lip Silicone I have, is one of them.)

This lip gloss is claimed to have sold over 1 million copies in Japan and has been a huge sensation in some other Asian countries. It is nicknamed “Lip Attack” or “Lip Siege” (you get the idea).


It looks pretty ordinary, but it is one of the most lip-plumping lip glosses I have ever used. It is so good that I can’t even put too much on or I’ll end up having very fat lips, and it actually doesn’t feel too thick or sticky.

Also, one great design is the spatula applicator (see below). I always hate the sponge tip because it smudges off the lipstick and it is a hassle to clean. Now with the soft plastic spatula applicator, I can just wipe it with a tissue and it looks as clean as it can be. It also makes a smooth and even application! (Western brands please learn this!)

(pictured: the spatula applicator,
against the (very rare) bright summer sky in England)

Now that I have tried it, I can understand the hype about it all around Asia, especially when it only costs about $10 USD in Japan!

Edited on June 3, 2007: I’d like to point out that this is not the kind of lip-plumping lip gloss that gives you the tingling feeling and dilates the blood vessels in your lips. I personally don’t like that. For me the tingling feeling is a discomfort. The plumping effect of the Curvy lip Silicone lies in the spot-on texture, consistency, and the glassy and light-reflective effect.

Edited on July 18, 2007: Photos updated.

{ 24 comments }

SUQQU: Sensuality with an Attitude

by PJ on Thursday, February 8, 2007

in _Japanese Brand Profile, -SUQQU, 2007 Spring, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, skincare

(stunning ad from SUQQU’s Fall 2006 collection)
(from www.suqqu.com)
.

Back in September 2003, when SUQQU‘s first counter opened in Isetan Department Store (a world-class cosmetics heaven, and an ultimate battlefield for all brands) in Shinjuku, Tokyo, people were waiting outside the store for the doors to open. The revenue of its first day of sale broke the record of this upmarket department store for a debut brand (Voce Magazine, March 2007).

Why did so many people rush to buy SUQQU’s products even before they sampled them and why has it been successful since its debut? Apart from the quality of the products itself, I think there are two very crucial reasons.

First of all, in a youth-obsessed society (in a globally youth-obsessed era), where packaging is getting cuter and the colors are getting funkier, SUQQU resorts to the reverse strategy. It targets mature grown-ups. It appeals to women who are successful, classy, intelligent, and sophisticated. I believe that, by doing so, it also appeals to young women who look up to their more mature peers. It altogether creates a surprisingly wide market.

Another reason is their beautifully constructed theme for each season and the visual brilliance of their ad campaigns that convey the theme. Usually printed cosmetics ads feature the face of the model freshly made up against a muted background. Pretty straightforward, but dull at the same time. Not SUQQU’s ads. They always have a sense of message and story, and it certainly helps when the colors of each seasonal makeup collection have such a strong identity.

Last spring, it was a collection which couldn’t be more pink, with pink eyeshadows, pink lipsticks, and pink blushers. The ad featured beautiful full-bloomed flowers as the backdrop:

(ad for SUQQU’s spring 2006 collection)

(from www.suqqu.com)
.

Last fall, the collection featured primary colors used in ancient Japanese pottery. The ad (at top of the page) is stunning. But I think the upcoming spring 2007 collection is even more impressive. The theme is “goddess of the earth”. The eyeshadows are shades of blue and beige, paired with beige and brown lipsticks. It’s the sea versus the desert, bare earth versus deep ocean. The ad features a woman between the desert and the blue sky/ocean. She looks confident and in charge.

(SUQQU makeup leaflet for summer 2007)
.

Primary colors and shades of blue are not easy to pull off. But SUQQU’s message is “Wear them and be confident!” Packaged minimally with oriental sensitivity and sensuality, the colors inside are bursting with personality and attitude. All of these give SUQQU a very unique edge.

Later this month, I’ll come back to SUQQU again and review some of the makeup and skincare products. There are some fantastic products to be written about, including the smoothest eyeshadows I have ever tried.

Stay tuned!

Next: a lipgloss that has sold over one million copies in Japan.

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