fragrance

I was expecting Giorgio Amarni’s latest fragrance, Acqua di Gioia, to be a very aquatic scent. It turns out to be sweeter and more floral, but it still presents a balance between a marine sensation and floral sweetness.

Top notes: mint, Italian lemon
Middle note: water jasmine
Base notes: cedarwood, brown sugar, labdanum

I would describe the scent as a fresh floral aquatic (though I nearly decided to describe it as an aquatic floral). The scent starts with a citrusy, effervescent, and cooling feel, as both the mint and the lemon have a clear and defined presence. The body of the scent is sweeter, and the water jasmine provides the scent with gentle sweetness and powderiness. But the overall composition remains relatively fresh and not overly syrupy.

I like the drydown of the scent. The floralness seems to be slightly reined in and the marine tone of the scent re-presents itself. The overall feel is quite intriguingly serene and comforting.

Compared with the previous two summery scents that I featured, SJP NYC is the sweetest of the three while Elemis Eau de Parfum is the least sweet. Acqua di Gioia is in the middle of the two, both in terms of sweetness and aquaticness.

Acqua di Gioia, available in eau de parfum in 30ml, 50ml, and 100ml, will be launched in the UK in July.

(The product featured in this article is provided by Giorgio Armani.)

Related posts:

Bulgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert

SUQQU Sanzekan

Bond No. 9 Astor Place

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Elemis is a UK-based skincare brand with a considerable variety of products for the face and body. Last month, the brand set foot in the world of fragrance by releasing its first scent, Elemis Eau de Parfum.

Top notes: elemi, sweet grass
Middle notes: vetiver, marine accord
Base notes: patchouli, gaiacwood, oak moss

I would describe Elemis Eau de Parfum as a citrus marine. Even though, strictly speaking, there are no citrus top notes, the scent opens with a citrusy sensation, which appears to be from elemi. (According to Wikipedia, aromatic elemi oil has a pine and lemon-like scent). Citrusy top notes generally appeal to me, and the freshness of elemi certainly does too.

Then the scent swiftly takes on a breezy and airy marine dimension. The marine accord is what characterizes the scent. It is slightly sweeter than the top notes, but it is a fresh, green, and somewhat dry sweetness and not a fruity, syrupy, or floral sweetness. (Notice that there are no floral notes in this fragrance.)

The woody note is soft and subtle. It adds substance to the scent to prevent it from being one-dimensional, but it is a low-key supporting note and doesn’t overtake the lilting and relaxing marine feel of the scent.

Elemis Eau de Parfum is a very pleasing daytime scent for summer that reminds me of a carefree afternoon by the beach with the scents of sea air, driftwood, and zesty lemonade.

The way the scent is presented conveys an on-the-move summer holiday feel as well. The travel-friendly 28ml eau de parfum comes in a compact and slender bottle. It comes with a drawstring pouch in turquoise, and the color seems to reflect the character of the scent. The fragrance seems to be gently whispering, “Take me away with you…”

(The product featured in this article is provided by Elemis.)

Other summer scents:

Bond No. 9 Coney Island

Escada Moon Sparkle

Stella McCartney Sheer Stella 2010

Other posts on Elemis:

Pro-Collagen Marine Cream & Oxygenating Night Cream

Pro-Collagen Body Serum

Pro-Radiance Cream Cleanser

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Fragrance Friday Review: SJP NYC

by PJ on Friday, May 21, 2010

in fragrance

(image from Coty Prestige)


Sarah Jessica Parker is among the many celebrities that are part of the celebrity fragrance empire. Following the success of Lovely, she brought out Covet and The Lovely Collection. This year, SJP NYC has been launched to coincide with the release of Sex and the City 2.

Top notes: wild red strawberries, Italian mandarin, white osmanthus
Middle notes: gardenia, honeysuckle, red rose damascenia, mimosa
Base notes: rum flavor, sandalwood, creamy musks

The scent is classified as a fruity floral. It opens with a sweet and citrusy sensation with strawberries and mandarin. The sweetness carries through and joins the middle notes as it subtly takes on a floral dimension. The base notes are light and not too woody or musky. On me, the sweetness of the strawberry note lasts all the way to the drydown.

The scent somewhat reminds me of Escada’s Moon Sparkle. They share a few notes (strawberries, citrus accord, sandalwood, and musk), and I think it is the sweetness of the strawberries that is mainly responsible for the resemblance.

Overall, SJP NYC is a fresh and sassy scent that is very suitable for summer. It is more fruity than floral and it has a vibrant and tropical feel. Compared with Parker’s other fragrances, I think it will probably be popular with slightly younger consumers.

SJP NYC Eau de Toilette is available in 15ml, 30ml, and 60ml (with slightly varied bottle designs). The range also includes a 200ml Body Lotion.

(The product featured in this article is provided by Coty Prestige via The Perfume Shop.)

Related posts:

Marc Jacobs Daisy in the Air

Sheer Stella 2010

Michael Kors Very Hollywood

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(images/info from www.joseishi.net/voce)

Ayura will release its fall 2010 makeup collection in Japan on July 23rd. The collection includes:

– Aura Feel Oriental Eyes (6 variations)
– Aura Feel Colored Black Mascara (4 shades)
– Aura Feel Gloss Pot (2 shades)

On the same day, Ayura will also release an incense burner with two types of incense.

All the items above are limited editions.

Related posts on Ayura:

Loving Japanese Brands (1 of 7): Ayura

Summer 2010 Collection

15th Anniversary Memories Coffret

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I don’t really have a favorite fragrance note, but the ones that tend to appeal to me are rose, lily, citrus notes, and berry notes. After trying L’Occitane‘s latest fragrance, Paeonia Eau de Toilette, I think I might be adding peony to the list.

Stella in Two Peony is one of the fragrances that I have tested that use peony as one of the predominant notes. Overall it is a rose-peony accord, and, on me, it is mainly a rosy scent with a hint of peony. With L’Occitane’s Paeonia, peony is the key note while rose takes on a supporting role.

Top notes: bergamot and grapefruit
Middle notes: peony and rose
Base notes: sandalwood and white musk

As with most other fragrances from L’Occitane, it is superbly wearable and not overly complicated. It is fresh, light (though perhaps not the longest-lasting), and very spring-like. Woody and musky notes are not my favorites, and the fact that, on me, the base notes happen to be very subtle does appeal to me.

The peony note has a blissful and uplifting quality, and it also has a warm roundness, fullness, and completeness to it, which doesn’t always exist in floral notes. The shape of the bottle, which is based on the fullness of the flower, seems to echo the feel of the note itself too.


The Paeonia Beauty Milk is one of the bodycare products in the range. It is a lightweight lotion that is lightly scented with the Paeonia fragrance. Some of the main moisturizing ingredients in this product are glycerin, grape seed oil, shea butter, and sunflower seed oil.

It spreads effortlessly and it leaves the skin adequately hydrated with no sticky residue. Both the scent and the texture of the product are suitable for spring and summer.

Other items in the Paeonia range includes Shower Cream, Intense Eau de Toilette Roll-on, and limited-edition makeup items.

(The products featured in this article are provided by L’Occitane.)

Related posts:

Bond No. 9 The Scent of Peace
(with black currant and lily of the valley)

Sheer Stella 2008
(with peony)

Aways Alfred Sung
(with pink poeny)

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Maison Martin Margiela was established in 1988 by Belgian designer Martin Margiela. Conveying a feel of simplicity, neutrality and pragmatism, the brand features collections for women and men as well as eyewear, fine jewelry and other accessories. Earlier this year, the brand launched Untitled (eau de parfum), its first fragrance.

Top notes: galbanum essence, box green, bitter orange blossom absolute
Middle notes: lentiscus resinoid, jasmine, galbanum resinoid
Base notes: musk, cedar, incense resinoid

There is something deeply alluring about this scent. As someone that generally likes fresh fruity florals, I surprised myself by being drawn to this dry, bitter, smoky, and woody green scent. It has a sharp, dry, and citrusy start and then it warms up with the smoky and woody notes. The notes of bitter orange blossom and incense seem particularly pronounced on me.

The fragrance radiates a comforting sensation not because it is soft, sweet, or smooth but because it feels solid, secure and dependable. Also, its angular, assertive, and uncompromising traits give the scent a well-rounded character.

I also like the coherent design details of the bottle. The string that secures the stopper, the white (the label’s key color) paint that surrounds the bottle, and the typewriter prints of the names of the fragrance and of the fashion house all create a feel of a work of an artist. It reflects the nature of the brand, which is rooted in experimentation and craftsmanship.

Untitled is not about creating a wide mass appeal. It is about sculpturing a distinctive character, one that is poetic, instinctive, and sophisticated. For me, it is quite a revelation.

In the UK, Untitled by Maison Martin Margiela is available exclusively at Selfridges. It is available in 30ml, 50ml, and 75ml.

(The product featured in this article is provided by Maison Martin Margiela.)

Related posts:

My Fragrance Favorites

Tiempe Passate by Antonia’s Flowers

Brooklyn by Bond No. 9

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From today and throughout the next few weeks, I will be looking at a different fragrance each Friday. The series begins with Sheer Stella 2010.

Stella by Stella McCartney is one of my favorite fragrances. Since 2004, a limited-edition Sheer Stella Eau de Toilette has been released each summer. The notes of these Sheer Stella editions are more or less the same, and each edition features a different packaging. I came across the 2010 edition in my local Boots earlier this month, and, again, I decided to get it with no hesitation.

Most editions of Sheer Stella feature citrusy/fruity top notes. The 2010 version does too, but I find that its fruity top notes are subtler than those of many other editions. It features notes of organic rose and amber, and, overall, Sheer Stella 2010 seems rosier and more mellow than most other editions.

The bottle is designed by Philip Jones, a British painter and sculptor. I like the soft and quiet elegance of the design. It also reminds me of Chinese ink landscape painting.

As lighter versions of Stella, most editions of Sheer Stella are relatively long-lasting. I tend to wear Sheer Stella in spring and summer and Stella (and Stella Rose Absolute, the deepest of all the Stella McCartney fragrances) in fall and winter.

I hope that we will have a warm summer this year in the UK. It is always nice to enjoy Sheer Stella on a lovely summer day…

(The fragrance is my own purchase. The press information is courtesy of Stella McCartney via The Perfume Shop.)

Related posts:

StellaNude

Sheer Stella 2008 & 2009

Sheer Stella 2004 – 2007
(The bottle designs of the 2005 and 2007 editions are still my favorites.)

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(image from Marc Jacobs)

Launched in 2007, Marc Jacobs’ Daisy EDT has been a very successful fragrance. The EDP version was then released, and, for spring/summer 2010, a limited-edition version, Daisy in the Air (EDT), has been available in the UK.

With pastel-blue petals adorning the bottle, Daisy in the Air has the same scent as that of Daisy. This edition comes with a paper garland, with which you can turn Daisy into a home fragrance.

Daisy features notes of wild strawberry, ruby red grapefruit, violet, jasmine, and gardenia.

I think Daisy is a very easy-to-wear fragrance. It does not attempt to establish a very strong identity, as none of the notes (particularly the floral notes) jumps out and takes over and the base notes are soft and subtle. But I think these could possibly be the key reasons for its success. It is light enough for everyday wear and is a pleasantly accessible and non-intrusive fresh fruity floral scent.

I like many of the fragrances by Marc Jacobs. Particularly, I love Marc Jacobs Perfume, a modern and elegant gardenia scent, and Blush, a successful blend of jasmine and mild fluid woodiness. Personally, I don’t think Daisy’s identity is as distinctive as that of Marc Jacobs Perfume or Blush. But what Marc Jacobs has created with Daisy is a product with a tremendous mass-market appeal. I think there will be more limited-edition versions of this fragrance to come.

(The product featured in this review is provided by Marc Jacobs via The Perfume Shop.)

Related posts:

Daisy Marc Jacobs Pour Sephora

Marc Jacobs Boutique in Mayfair, London

My Fragrance Favorites

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(image from www.stellamccartney.com)

In one of my earliest blog posts, I talked about my three favorite fragrances. Stella by Stella McCartney is among them, and it is still one of my favorite scents. Late last year, Stella McCartney released StellaNude, which joins the Stella family. It is also a continuation of the Stella McCartney Lingerie Collection.


(StellaNude UK TV ad, via YouTube)

Top notes: Moroccan rose, grapefruit
Middle notes: white peony, pink pepper
Base notes: Ugandan vanilla, grey amber

For me, the easiest way to talk about StellaNude is to compare it with Stella. While both are sensuous scents which feature the beautiful rose note, one element that really differs StellaNude from Stella is the pink pepper. It makes StellaNude sharper, spicier, and more bouncy. (Interestingly, this is not the way I expected StellaNude to be when I was looking at how the scent was visually marketed.) On the other hand, Stella is relatively more sedate, rounded and grounded.

StellaNude has a strong opening and a subtle drydown, and the punchy pepper note gives StellaNude a youthful and playful edge. Stella is softer and carries a feminine elegance, and its intensity is released more steadily.

Stella is an eau de parfum and StellaNude is an eau de toilette, and I do think that Stella lasts longer.

(image from www.stellamccartney.com)

The bottle has the same shape as that of Stella but it features facets in pale blush pink (instead of deep plum).

Overall, I prefer Stella. But what I like about StellaNude is that, while it is certainly instantly recognizable as part of the Stella family, it is different enough from all the other members to warrant its own identity. I think it is another successful modern interpretation of a rose fragrance. Compared with Stella, it will probably appeal to slightly younger consumers.

StellaNude is currently available in Eau de Toilette (30ml, 50ml, and 100ml) and Linen Scented Mist (125ml).

(The product featured in this article is provided by Stella McCartney.)

Related posts:

Stella McCartney Sheer Stella 2009

Bulgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert

A Splash of Color – Sensuous Plum

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Fragrance Review: Very Hollywood Michael Kors

by PJ on Tuesday, September 29, 2009

in -Michael Kors, fragrance

(image from www.veryhollywood.com)

Very Hollywood is Michael Kors’ latest fragrance. The scent, the packaging, and the advertising campaign aim to capture the sights and sounds of one of the world’s most glamorous destinations.

Top notes: mandarin, bergamot
Middle notes: jasmine, ylang ylang, raspberry, gardenia
Base notes: Italian orris, amber, white moss, vetiver

Very Hollywood is essentially a fruity floral scent. The invigorating and richly citrusy mandarin and bergamot open the scent, and the juicy raspberry soon shines through. It is a fresh opening with a hint of sweetness.

However, one note that characterizes the whole scent is gardenia. As the fruitiness recedes, gardenia soon takes over. The gentle base (with no heavy woodiness) allows gardenia to linger on for a considerable amount of time until the end. If you like fragrances with gardenia as the core, Very Hollywood is definitely worth trying.

Overall this is a wearable scent that does have a glamorous feel. Its sparkling and vivacious flair makes it a nice going-out scent, which can be quite suitable for the upcoming party season. (It is certainly not for a calm and quiet occasion.)


Currently exclusive to Harrods and Brown Thomas in the UK, Very Hollywood Michael Kors will be available nationwide from October 14th. The lineup includes Eau de Parfum Spray (30ml, 50ml, and 100ml), Luxe Perfume Spray (30ml), Fabulotion and Gem Solid Perfume Ring. (Luxe Perfume Spray and Gem Solid Perfume Ring are exclusive to Harrods and Brown Thomas.)

Related posts:

Always Alfred Sung

Escada Moon Sparkle

The Lovely Collection by Sarah Jessica Parker

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